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For Once tonight it’s fantastic just to see your fellow friends once again on this forum. I always check to see who’s on line at the time. yarb

We were only hit by a random bot software. Not a big deal, other than a bunch of crap in our forums.. I removed them this weekend. Mike

Another Beverly Hills Car Club special...I'm not sure if someone else has posted it, but I just have the image of these twits searching through wrecking yards for cars to sell. https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/datsun/240z/2454374.html

Wow!! This is awesome!! I expected a half a shovelful and you guys pulled up and unloaded the dumptruck. I was thinking maybe I won't hear much about this. . . It's just the horns. . . So Wow!! I'm actually not as concerned about doing the finishes exactly as the factory did but rather just making the car look great in every detail and super corrosion resistant. It's a low number car at 19500 but the original engine was swapped out with an L26 the numbers matching block was lost years ago. Bought a complete L24, cheap from Ebay with usable block and crank but the head was undesirable and also had a big corrosion hole in it. I went looking and found an E31 head in great shape and installed the bigger stainless valves with new guides and seats. Cam and springs will be ordered when we figure out the lower end. Car came with an L26 engine so looking at using that stroker crank in the build. Not there yet. As I was blasting the horn parts I did notice that green but then again my car was BRGreen under it all and will be again. Is that olive drab color just the conversion coat for zinc that I'm reading about? Might get that chemical or just go yellow chromate as I think that looks good too. . . If I want to dunk a part in my plating tank and mask off an area what is the most reliable liquid proof masking?? I expect I'll find that info if I read all the posts. . . Thanks again to everybody who took the time!! Much appreciated!! ToolBoy aka Andy

The only one (other than the few on the front cover), that is open to the inside of the engine is the front long thermostat housing bolt. Racking my brain, but can’t think of any others. Must include the usual warning about that one thermostat housing bolt, make sure it does not protrude and come against the chain guide that is right there.

Those are really nice and for a really nice price compared to what I have seen them selling for on Ebay. I have a set that were removed at the dealer and have never used. I have had them for over 30 years. Just made a deal on a 72 that needs restoration. Finally have a car to put my hubcaps on 🙂

On a different topic but somewhat related, be mindful of the slop in the 123 distributor to oil pump shaft\tang. perhaps you've dealt with these already, but in case you haven't, you'll need to shim it up with something to prevent play. It'll cause the car to run poorly. Apologies if I'm yammering on about something you already know.

A bad VR can drain the battery. That was one of my first Z car lessons over 28 years ago. For the inhibitor switch, look at the 73 wiring diagram for Automatic Transmission. Here's how the wiring works: The reverse switch AND the inhibitor switch are fed by a red wire. Each device is wired to a red/black wire that goes back to the reverse lights. I think this is a red herring (no pun intended). Anyway, the inhibitor switch should also have two black/yellow wires going to it. In other words, the inhibitor switch interrupts the solenoid power. No need to tie the 123 to anything but the black/white that goes to coil positive. There should be another wire from the 123 to coil negative to ground the negative when the distributor wants to fire. The stock wiring has a black wire that goes from coil negative to the points for the points to ground when it's time to fire. Then if there's yet another wire for ground, it could be grounded to the block for all you're concerned. Post the 123 wiring diagram to confirm. As for the green/white and other black/white at the ballast resistor, you can probably jumper those together.

Ouch! Cdn$355 (plus tax and shipping). Cdn$270+ for an OE gas cap. Maybe I should start parting out my car.

And another spammer just joined. https://www.classiczcars.com/profile/39043-ruhi-kapoor/

Recently received this new OE Mirror from Whitehead Performance, one more part crossed off my list. These things have sure jumped up in price.

It’s new. I heard from a mechanic I may not have properly bled it first

Just for reference here is one of the horns from my 7/70. It does appear to have the greenish olive drab finish, but darker that most I've seen. there was a lot overspray on it so It might be darker from staining. Here is a picture of the 31K mile car that sold for big money on BAT a couple of years ago. The horns look like a light olive drab color on the fronts. Here is a good discussion about horn finishes, sorry for the duplication of pics.

I bought mine from a chain auto parts store. 280Z fan and clutch with ZX full shroud around 280Z radiator on both my 240Z and 280Z. Happy with the set up. Idling in my garage they both run around 175F.

That's amazing! I got the same combination on my luggage!

Hey guys, Yeah thanks for your patience as I weed through the posts. These kinds of posts typically come in waves. We'll see a bunch of them and then they will taper off again. I'm not too worried about it because our post-process system is great. The best way you can help is to continue reporting the posts. I will then look at the member account, flag them as a spammer, and they won't be able to log in again. Best thing is I can restrict based on IP address. Most of the latest ones have been coming from India, so it's been great to collect the address pool and I can restrict the entire network segment. There's no real way to prevent this kind of thing, sadly. Recaptcha is a great idea, but it doesn't work anymore. The bots have all worked around the recaptcha security and it's worthless these days. The first post idea is a good idea but it requires that we screen all posts from new members. Since I'm not on every day this can ruin the new user experience. Our software also has methods to detect potential scammers by filtering emails and IP addresses through a known list of spammers, but again these guys just go out and get new IP's. From what I've found, it's better just to let them post so we can create a database of network segments, and then just shut them off in their tracks. I can do this at both the root level and in our software. 😉 Mike

I took the car to a meet today. Aside from a short test drive after replacing the brakes, this was the true test of my work (and diagnostics). Sure enough, the pulling to the left is gone. It's about time for me to pivot to the 260Z and get all of the parts together for the rear bushings to see if I can fix the toe-in on that car. Here's a photo from the meet with a couple of fellow GZC members.

Mike should restrict a new users 1st post from going live until it is reviewed by him or a moderator. I think he averages about 1 new user a day.

Looks fun! I've always heard the weight difference between the straight 6 and a V8 throws the handling off. V8's are good and fast in a straight line is what I've always been told. Some reading when you're not auto crossing... https://www.google.com/search?q=280z+with+a+v8+handling+fix&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&oq=280z+with+a+v8+handling+fix&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i160.18681j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Yep---it is a fairly dark olive drab green color. I haven't found it as an in-the-can spray, but approximated the color closely by using Rust-oleum Camouflage Green with a very light overspray of Rust-oleum Oil Rubbed Bronze. You'll have to go back and forth with the spraying between the two to get just the right shade, but you can compare your result to the seat rails and heater box and blower for correctness since they were the same finish----at least on the earlier Z cars like yours (6/70), Mike's (?/70) and mine (7/70). The beginning of the discussion was started here by Mike ( @CanTechZ ) @zed2 Keith described it as Imperial Japanese Army green and gave the formula for it here: Imperial Japanese Army Green color match by Sherwin-Williams Oil base semi gloss