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Thanks everyone, I ran out “like button” ! I need a jet fighter aircraft, I want to reach my room and show what I have for you, now ! Kats Oh , S30-00002 has air-con too ! You can see the beautiful check valve junction, one of the coolest looking piping and connectors among cars around 1970 .

So I did this last night. In my 73 there was no trimming. The part number I used was VDO PM9196. Rockauto still has plenty available for decent prices. Thanks @jfa.series1 for letting us know about it.

Actually the relay on the right is the horn relay. The give-away to me is that I can barely make out the B and the S.

Hi Kats. Do you have a copy of this 1970 Fairlady Z air conditioning manual? It notes the air conditioning system can't be used on the PS30. -Mike Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

Not great photos, but AU market dealer fitted system on my 71.

Use a weak magnet and go over all the body panels to determine if any have been previously sculpted (hatch damage) instead of repaired properly.

Yeah , both shock to bumper and shock to fenderwell appear to have a different bolt pattern. If I was installing it, I doubt it would be much of a problem. If it was mine I'd be installing 240 bumpers. I wonder if this is one of those parts that changed mid-year? I think it's time to contact Redwing and ckurtz2 and compare the bolt patterns on the 76 chassis and the 77 bumper.

Thanks for re-posting these, Alan. There were a few pages I hadn't seen. I think about the "option list" decisions a fair amount, especially given the decision to not even offer the US market a 5-speed - essentially the same gearbox they had already been selling in the US for 3 years. The 1600/2000 roadster data should have been enough to demonstrate a hearty appetite for upgrades. It was possible for Nissan to build a 240Z-L (for lack of a better term) with all the features in 1969, and of course sell that car at a markup - and I'd venture to say they would have sold every single one. it's just the road not taken. I can understand that perhaps in 1970, it would have been tricky, given the ramp-up in volumes. but by 1971, it should have been straightforward. So Kats, if it's between a PLS30 and a loaded HLS30, you cant go wrong. A fully optioned 240Z-L, based on factory components, would be a very worthwhile project. Someone was selling the near-correct compressor on Y!.jp a few weeks ago for big $$$.

Not wishing to steal Kats' thunder here, but I have previously posted scanned pages from the aircon section of the 1969 'Z1' Nissan Service Shuho booklet and perhaps this is a good time to post them again. It seems to me that many early Z enthusiasts do not know that factory aircon was part of the original 270KK/'Maru Z'/S30-series design, even though the tell-tales are there for us to see on every early car - Export or Domestic. I'm surprised more people do not notice them... A true 'Fully Loaded' early Z with all the bells and whistles would have been quite something in late 1969. World Class.

@siteunseen First of all, thanks for the response. Ya, I don't like the empty block one either. I was curious if one or the other was period correct, thanks for clarifying that you had them on your 72'. I think I will go for these in white, think they should look good against the dark root beer color on my car. Thanks again!

Hi Mart and others, Thanks alot for your replies:) Really appreciate it👍 @Mart: Hi, small world isnt it? I wander what it will cost to have all the stuff done which it needs... The car is from Canada and is still on Canadaian plates and has to get a Dutch license plate and has to attend a RDW test for driving on european road. These costs are estimated by the seller at max 1000 euro's, which i have to pay. Together with the stuff needs doing to get it proper, i am going to doubt if it is something for me... Probably better to spend some more cash for a reasonable one without the fuss of welding and painting etc. I see the inside door upholstery isnt original as is the carpets etc. I see Joop Stolze has some 240Z's and 260Z's but they are a bit above my $$$. Maybe do you know better one for sale in the Netherlands? With the kindest regards. Mark

Hi Mike, where did you get the book ? I am so surprised that you have this copy which might be one of the rarest things I’ve ever seen. ( I had to buy a set of six books to buy just only this copy for 100000 JPY! I sold the other five books for 60000 JPY, so crazy expensive 😰) . Anyway , we will see how wonderful Nissan factory A/C for S30 series is . And interesting to operate! First , we need this face panel to have it in our cars. Kats PS : As you mentioned above, this A/C can’t be installed on Z432 series (PS30&PS30SB) , it is described in Forward. Literally, no you can’t. But That doesn’t mean “never “ because the system was designed for L-series engined car , however piping and assorted parts under dashboard area are nothing changed. So it is possible with some hand craft works for engine Bay Area . All the things in the system can be installed as they are , except compressor mount bracket, condenser ( need to be much smaller to avoid the air cleaner box and the coolant reservoir tank ) and the FICD (it was only designed for L-series) .I don’t know why Nissan quit making A/C for Z432 , but the A/C pulley for S20 is a good souvenir for us . Kats

Yes it is! I wondered why it was on the console.. normally the turnsignal thing is on the left under the dash. It says HBS, i looked it up and S is signal from hornbutton, B is 12v input and H go's to Horn.. H is green B is green/redline S is green/blackline

These are the closest to mine from 1972 I've seen. They have 280 ones too. I don't like the empty block look around "240" some of the others sale. https://stripegarage.com/collections/datsun-240z-260z-280z The others... Stripegarage.com... Mine from '72...

At first i saw the car and recognised it immediately because i look at cars/parts for sale at "the 2e hands site" and then i saw your from the Netherlands, welcome Mark! Beek en Donk is a place some 30km's from my home! I took a look at your pics and it's a car that needs a lot of work before it's a nice car.. Normally i would say if you are going to take a look at that car i would join you but as i'm not very healthy and this covid stuff i will not take that chance.. Did you drive the car.. for at least 15-20 min.? You asked if the damage on the back was simple.. no.. don't think so.. and i, like others see a lot of bondo.,. (Dutch: Plamuurbak!! 😉 ) Although this could be not much of a problem.. i think it's not very well done as i can see the "american way"of spaying paint.. haha.. the paintjob is terrible.. (ami paintjob means nothing was taken off every part like rubbers on hood edge/ rear deck are also blue...) So it was a quick repair not very well done.. if you want a good car there is need for a paintjob complete! As the driversdoor has also rust in the front of the door (just see the pics..) let alone what else there is to discover! Mart (one letter different 😉 )

@Captain Obvious Did you glue the mitered ends of the door seal to each other? A careful application of some high quality CA adhesive to the flexible rubber seals, as well as silicone (perhaps) for any gap of the gripping portion of the seal may make a significant difference in wind noise.

No problem. It is Friday after all.

Does anyone know what happened to that car? I recall seeing those photos of it on this site at least 15 years ago. But no follow up on where it is now?

So I got the seal for the passenger side today. I wasn't sure it would be thick enough when I did my first test fit, but I took the plunge and installed it on the full door seal. The door doesn't compress it much, and the door closes easily. I did use the top corner for the meeting of the ends. I got it just about perfect, too. Thank goodness. Anyway, the door closes easily, and it doesn't seem to rattle. I'll take it on the freeway tomorrow to see. Door Closing.mp4 I then took on the glove box and promptly wrote it off. RIP, original glove box. Well, I got the glove box door put back on for now. While I was looking around that area, I decided to go ahead and try to replace the blower motor with the Kia one I bought a few years back. After a misstep in wiring, I got the positive and negative figured out, and the fan is an improvement over the old Datsun fan. By the way, if you do that on a 240Z, use the non-latching T connector on the Kia fan. You're welcome. After that it was time to put the dash cap on. At first it wouldn't fit right. Then I remembered that I needed to remove the knob for the hazard switch, first. After that, the cap fit just right. As I fiddled with the lights, I noticed that the headlights were not coming on all of the time. There is an issue with the switch. At least I have a good stock of switches. The first switch I grabbed had a bad 9-pin connector from overheating on the parking light circuit. I replaced the connector, and I found this little screwdriver did a better job releasing the pins in the connector than the de-pinning tool. I installed the replacement headlight switch, and found the bullet on the white/red was bigger than the female bullet in the dash harness. I took it back out and found a switch that had the right sized bullet. Okay, the lights were working consistently. I put the steering wheel back on and adjusted the combo switches so the steering wheel could cancel the turn signals. I attached the horn button and got ready to put on the plate that goes on the front edge of the dash by the windshield. Then I realized I didn't put the nut back on the steering wheel. Who likes a loose nut in a Z? With the steering wheel PROPERLY secured and the horn button in place, I secured the metal plate to the dash and called it a night.

I believe those ones go between the inside of the fender and the in inner dome shaped headlight bucket for the bulb. That one is also available from vintage rubber. The one we are looking for goes between the front of the fender and the back of the headlight case aka sugar scoop.

Kat, Nice S30-00002 Cheers, Kirk

Thanks for the quick response. Since the part is discontinued, I guess I have 3 options: 1. live without the gasket - probably not a good idea - paint will probably chip 2. get the rubber gaskets that go behind the headlight bucket and modify them 3. make something out of rubber or that flexible sealer used for an RV. I think Wick Humble (How to Restore ....") calls the stuff dumdum. If you have any other suggestions don't hesitate. Anyway, I appreciate the help - thanks. Regards, ron ps - I just remembered what the real name is for dumdum - Its a seam sealer, comes stuck to a sheet in a roll. I have used to seal an AC on a RV roof, seemed to work.

Yes, mine are missing too. In the case of early cars, I think 70/71, the headlight cases are FRP. So it's not actually metal to metal on them, but all should have them.

s20 with Aircon. Why not? there's plenty of room for a compressor, actually. As to the F.I.C.D - probably set the fast-idle to 3000 RPM, LOL!.

I don't think it's stealing any thunder. I appreciate you re-posting the pages from the manual. It's always good to compare the photos to the manual, too, since it can be a challenge to track the errata in manuals.

@kats I have a 260Z evaporator on a shelf in my garage. I'll take some photos for your for comparison.

Thanks Steve , you helped Matsuo san for the presentation, must be wonderful time for you ! Yes I would love to post pictures here when I am home , they are so interesting to see I guarantee it. I have heard it was not easy task to have the system in dashboard because it was so small room for the system. Matsuo san or Uemura san ? Told us Toyota 2000 GT couldn’t have it in a dashboard, but on the rear deck behind the two seat backs, a big box dominated the space . It was not cool at all . 260Z and 280Z have a factory installed air-con system, I am feeling those system were updated version of Fairlady Z series air-con system from Oct 1969 to Aug 1973 . But basically the same, both systems use vacuum power to move the inlet doors / airflow direction flaps . Kats

You are obviously under the mistaken impression that my door cards are in great shape.

The resistor is bolted inside the big metal fan housing and is not part of the blower motor itself if memory serves. It looks like a curly wire resembling a pigs tail - you can't miss it.

Hello partners. Well, I'll tell you. I've been looking for a manual pedal box for my 260z, and this guy contacted me because he had one. We talked by email, he sent me photos, and we agreed on a price, plus shipping to Spain. So far so good, all that was at the end of December. I made the payment through PayPal (supposedly to his wife's account because his had problems or what do I know), a few days later he asked me for $60 more for taxes that Fedex asked for the shipment to Spain. That money, he gave me a paypal account which he told me was not working well for him and he reimbursed me and I had to deposit it in another. Well, a few days ago I asked him for the tracking number and he told me that he didn't have it yet, and a few days later I sent him an email again and he didn't answer me. I suppose that I have lost my money and I will never receive the pedal box, but at least this way you can know what kind of person is this MIKEGREEEN008