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MN factory is working after long delays and worker walk-outs :-0

Boss is a d***

The S20 airboxes have carburettor trumpets/funnels integral with the cover:

Here's my factory replacement airbox on period Weber 45DCOE-9s and S20 inlet manifold, for shape reference:

I have decided to go with 10W-40. I have used it in my 69 Cadillac with a 472 block and flat cams and it has given me great results last 7 years. https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497806-hr5-10w-40-conventional-hot-rod-oil.html

Yikes 🥶. That car looks to have had an extensive going over, and the quality doesn't seem to be worthy of the price to me. But what do I know?

The original paint was "Amino Alkyd Enamel” (oil based) - the newer Acrylics do not adhere / bond well to it and shouldn’t be used over it. AIR the only acrylic enamel used in 1970 was on the Metallic Silver.

In my neck of the woods throwout and release means the same thing. And the special washing machine is called a chemical vat at our machine shops. But your's could have been some kind of ultrasonic thing like for transmission parts? How you like me now? Party on Wayne!

I took a quick look on the web and came up with this. Seemed to be the best detail of the situation(s): https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-brakes-residual-pressure-valves.74978/ After reading through that, I'm not buying the "return springs" part of the theory, and I'm all in that the residual pressure is required only to prevent sucking air into the system at the wheel cylinders. But of course, I'm just a guy who read it on the internet. I've got a master cylinder here that I've taken completely apart, including the outlet valves. If I can find it, I'll see if I can determine any differences between the valves from F vs R. Of course, when I took them out, I didn't bother to mark which is which, so...

Take whatever time estimate you have for a wiring job and double it 🙂 So many lessons learned and I cant wait to share them all with you when I am finished. But for now I was working on fixing my turn signal stalk. The PCB board was so brittle that when I disassembled to clean the contacts, it was just falling apart. I was a bit upset that it came apart and I started to look into replacements. I really wanted to keep the OEM stalk and not go aftermarket. Everything was fairly pricey though, so I looked into fixing myself. I found this thread on HybridZ where a toggle switch accomplishes the same function of the OEM switch. A quick print for a bracket and new slider and boom, we're back in business! The switch in the Off position: Then each direction works flawlessly. It retains the nice CLICK as well.

that looks like a good oil to use. I have used Valvoline VR1 20/50 and or Rotella T4 (diesel) 15/40. It rarely gets below 60's here (colder than that I generally stay indoors 🙂 )

Adding a rear anti-sway bar reduces body roll and oversteer. Brings the 240Z closer to neutral handling. On the downside - you lose some of the warnings as you approach the limits of tire adhesion. Body roll and tire squealing are warnings that you are approaching the limit….. so with no warning spin-outs happen suddenly and unexpectedly if you are not experienced and right on top of your game. I think that is where the old saying “you don’t know your limits until you spin out” comes from. You also lose the ability to use trailing throttle oversteer to set the rear of the car out where you want it attacking fast corners. For that reason about 8 or 9 out of 10 240Z’s are road raced without a rear anti-sway bar. A better solution is a slightly larger diameter front anti-sway bar. It reduces body roll but maintains throttle control for faster corners. FWIW, Carl B.

NISSAN calls them the releasebearing? and i'm surprised that you needed to press them on? I just fit it to the axle and ready.. And btw, i don't have a machinist.. (My engine needed just a clean up.. (after 120000km.)) I only took the head to a machinist to clean it in a special washing machine.

Hi Kats, I'm still having trouble getting a full set together. I now have 3 narrow Kobe Seiko mag wheels and 1 wide wheel, so I need either 1 more wide and 1 more narrow. I did find a wide 1 on YAJ! But was outbid by someone on the East Coast of the US of A. I have a possible lead on another lot but haven't pursued then yet as I'm sure the asking price is outside my budget. So the M-speed ones will give me a complete set and require less special treatment.

S20 engine is really cool also, unique sound to it

That's why I opened up a topic on taxation values. How the hell to they justify these prices? So basically because its not restored and family owned it's worth big bucks?

I've used Valvoline max life 10w30 for 5 plus years and the cam lobes look nice and shiny. Oil never gets really dark like Castrol 20/50 I ran in my '89 BMW 325is. Good pressure on the gauge too but I use turbo oil pumps.

I can't rember the total weight of the rod and piston assembled but I used the ones that had the same stamped numbers on the cups and rod caps. I chose to grind off a gram or two off the outer longer length of the rods to get them equal. I had the the flywheel resurfaced and balanced by the machinest but bolted up the the clutch kit straight out of the box. It gets close to 7,000rpm and is smooth, no vibration at all. Make sure and have your throwout bearing pressed on from your machinest. I used the old one to drive a new one on my first time and it whines in neutral unengaged. Works great but is annoying to me. Heres something I found on a 2.4 build, good read.

I'm pretty sure our stock flywheels are single mass. So when you replace it with a lightweight single mass I believe it is not supposed to make more noise. However, I replaced my stock flywheel with the Fidanza one, had it all balanced, and now I have a bit more chatter in the transmission. Perhaps my transmission is a bit worn? Not sure,but it shifts good, doesn't wine at speed or have any noticable problems. Just a bit more noise. Now after 4,000+ miles I don't notice it.

I used really heavy oils in motors that were noisy or had excessive bearing clearances. I'm unsure sure whether 20wXX oils are the right choice or not. I wouldn't run a 50 weight oil unless I had an engine issue that convinced me otherwise. You oil pressure sounds very normal. so I would run the 10w40 probably. It's more flowable when cold but still on the heavier side. Running a 20w oil when its really cold can cause other issues

A Safari Gold Z432 with my Fairlady 240ZG . This Z432 belongs to Mr. Uekubo , he did restoration work by his own hands , metal work , paint work , and mechanical components refurbish work , interior trimming work , and S20 rebuilding. It took him almost 20 years to complete when he finally took the car on the road in 2021 . He was cleaver to do it, he had been collecting parts from local Nissan since late 1990’s . So most of parts which were applied in this car are NOS parts from Nissan , just amazing. Funny thing is, he found this Z432 in a vegetable field covered by lots of dart and soil .If he didn’t decide to take it, this Z432 would have been returned to the earth. He chose a set of replica “ Nissan works rally wheel “ . Looks great in his car . Kats FullSizeRender.mov

got in my ultima alternator from oreillys. took it to them to test it....it failed. took it to advance auto and it failed there too. The alternators must be junk. Going to order a new one again. hopefully 3rd time is the charm.