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Without meaning to shill for this vendor, they have really taken the Z restoration process a completely new level when compared with the bad old days of Tabco-or-make-your-own. I just checked their website and was pleasantly surprised to see that they've pretty much doubled their range of Z repair panels from the time when I last checked in 2020 (the 240Z catalog now includes 44 items). Some of the noteworthy additions: radiator bulkhead front inner fender patch panels, c/w separate 'pocket' piece for the crossmember join area and separate 'doubler' panel for the K-box area firewall repair panels (lhs and rhs) battery tray - separate, or c/w inner fender patch panel dogleg repair pieces - inner and outer, plus lower B-pillar piece front fender lower-rear patch panels, c/w mounting details Worth a look. KF Vintage JDM 240Z Separate catalogs for 280Z, 510 and 620 (!)

Chas, very nice and I almost went that route. After talking to Sean at Zstory he really seemed to be someone you can trust and if you have issues he’s going to help resolve it. I’ll hang everything tomorrow and then take exact measurements from the dual down pipe to his V-band connector. He threw in two extra V-band connectors and clamps for me. I’ll buy a dual 2” to 2.5” merge pipe and have it bent right and weld the v-band to the 2.5” side and hopefully it will work. I didn’t want to spend the money initially for his header before I saw if I could make my header work and I think I can. I like challenges....I make me better at solving problems. This car is one challenge after another, I should be a genius by now [emoji23]. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Last weekend prompted by @inline6's topic about preventing rust in Z's lower front fenders I decided to remove mine to do some investigating. here is a link to that thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/66010-preventing-rust-in-the-zs-lower-front-fenders/#comments In addition to looking at the fenders, I did this to inspect areas that are hidden by the fenders, like the upper frame rails, AKA air horns, and get a good look at the firewall to frame rail area. And also the inner fender above the T/C box that very common for rust. Yesterday I removed the patches that had been installed on my first resto in 1982. My body guy back then did a quick and dirty job in that area, as I was on a very tight budget being a student, however didn't think it would be as shoddy as I have found. It's still fixable but will be a few more $$$. On the plus side the OE fenders I put on in 1982 are still in great condition. Here are a few pictures of what I found. I must caution you that some of the images are disturbing. Lol + Last year I purchased a pair of these repair parts for this area from Auto Panel Solutions in the UK, However I noticed that KF Vintage JDM now offers a full length repair option for this area that includes the pocket and reinforcement at the crossmember mount, which I need as well. Decisions, decisions? https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun/front-inner-fender-lower-repair-section-6-inches-right-side/

Hi guys. I figured I should start a build thread in here. The actual restoration is very close to being complete, but this seems like a good place to document a few things and perhaps ask little questions so I don't clutter up the main subforums with little inquiries when I can't find the answer. Anyway, this is about 93069, which my dad bought new in October of 1972 from Cardinal Motors in Jacksonville, NC. He was 21 years old at the time and just starting his senior year at NC State. The car's block number is 118555 and it has a built date of 07/72 (right around the brake system crossover). Original color: 901 Silver over red vinyl, dealer-installed factory air. Here are a couple of pictures my dad took in November of 1972, one month after he bought it: My dad had it repainted blue in the late '70s. My mom has always liked blue cars, so it's possible she had a hand in choosing the color. It seems rub strips were installed at that time also. I obviously remember the car all growing up. It was my dad's daily driver, and my brothers and I crammed into the back of it on more than one occasion, legs dangling behind the front seats, lying on our backs in under the hatch glass, watching the trees flick by overhead. Very unsafe, but it was a different time. The car deteriorated over the years. Battery acid ate a hole in the inner fender well and firewall, water seeped down and rusted out the passenger side floor pan. Rust started to pop up other places also, like the rocker panels and the trunk sill. My dad had the engine rebuilt in the '90s, and the carbs refurbished by the original owner of ZTherapy around the same time. I still have his "Just SU Carbs" and "240Z Tuneup" videos on VHS. Pretty nice viewing. I've always been into cars, but was never wild about the Z, which always felt weird because everyone I talked to said it was an incredibly cool car. Maybe familiarity just breeds contempt (or indifference in this case)? Who knows. Regardless, I got into wrenching about 20 years ago and have had a long succession of project cars (FB RX-7s, mk3 Supra, Type 85 Audi, various BMWs, etc), but found it hard to muster the motivation to start restoring the Z. Finally, about 10 years ago, I was at a point in my life where I had a place of my own with a 2-car garage and wanted to start bringing the Z back into focus. This was its state then: Pretty much a "barn find" in my parents' own garage. Dusty, rusty, mismatched tires, etc. I had chucked the bumper overriders years ago and managed to talk my dad into buying a set of slotted mags since he kept losing hubcaps. It hadn't run in 6+ years at that point. Back in 2005, I was driving it and the battery wasn't properly secured. It slipped off the its pedestal and impacted the oil filter, creating a nice gash (and minor fire, which I beat out). I was young and stupid and continued driving, trying to make it to the nearest auto parts store for a filter in spite of the fact that I likely had marginal oil pressure. The moment the engine started acting funny I parked it and walked the remaining 1/2 mile to CarQuest for an oil filter. I put it on and drove it home, but was scared that I had permanently damaged something, so I just let it sit. Fast forward to 2011, Stage 1 of the restoration was determining if it would run properly or if the engine needed a rebuild. I replaced all the consumables on the engine, had the carbs rebuilt (again) by ZTherapy and drained and resealed the fuel tank. Got everything hooked back up and after a few hiccups...it started and ran just fine. That was a relief. Stage 2 had to wait a few more years. I moved for work about 6 hours further away from my parents (they had been 1.5 hours away before), and took the Z with me. In early 2014, I partially disassembled the car, removing the engine and some other key bits. The next spurt of motivation came in 2016, when I finally got my garage organized and finished stripping the car down. In 2017, my dad came with a trailer and took the car back to his house to have the body restored. He took it to a local body shop to have the rust repaired and the car repainted its original 901 Silver. The body shop did an OK job. I wish I had been local in order to supervise the work more closely, since they cut a few corners, especially in the engine bay. Long story short, the car returned back to me for reassembly on Labor Day 2019. I was initially pretty intimidated by the task at hand, but started chipping away at it and it started coming together. I finally got it started again a little over a year ago so it could move under its own power to our new (local) home. Since then, reassembly has continued in fits and starts, but this is where it stands now: Still quite a lot to do, especially as regards the interior, but I've been pleased with the progress so far. Thanks for reading and stay tuned. -Matt

I bought 7 pieces from them this past winter for the 510, very good quality and because the parts are coming from Colombia the shipping cost was the same for me in Canada as it is for the US, cheap.

Having been close to 130mph in my first 240z, many years ago. I would go with the higher numbers

Chas, I lnew I liked you for a reason! Thats alot of beer!!!

We have had a fairly well documented conversation about the Road & Track road test which involved cars in the US prior to January 1970. The R&T figures appear to be the most accurate. Car and Driver, evidently, performed their road test later in the year, after the first imports. To the best of my knowledge, the final drive ratios were consistent. I suspect the Car and Driver test results to be less. This topic is going to take you down a rabbit hole. Nissan / Datsun conducted road tests in October / November 1969 which we have discussed thoroughly. This is a good start: You might want to look at this also:

Not sure this is helpful. Under just the right conditions of light and angles, I can see remnants of home marks, but overall they are remarkably smooth. First four are all cylinder 1. Last two are the notches cut in #1, and 3td last is cylinder 6

Yes pictures are definitely in order here. Will comply shortly, I hope they convey the smoothness. Long block is block/pistons + head, short block is block/pistons only.

Hi, welcome to the forum. First thing... DO NOT lift that car the way on the picture! Lift it under the original jack points if the car is not rusted inside there or the safe way is under the axles !!! One day you will have a problem with the floor all dented in because its very thin steel and not strong enough to support a complete body with everything (engine and trans is ) IN it! When you have a completely stripped chassis it could be possible to lift it that way but not a complete car.. Buy yourself a service manual or get one on www.xenonzcar.com (And yes the front is partly lifted the way you did in the servicemanual but i've seen to many dents there to say it's safe to do so..) I always lift it on the axles. (I can also lift mine on the orig. jack points because i welded my car's sides and bottom almost from scratch haha.) but when i'm in for a MOT (Here called a APK) i always let them lift it on the axles.

That's kind of what I was thinking with the Crane ignition being factored in, but you probably saw where I was heading with my diagnostics. It is personal operating philosophy to first eliminate the last thing I f'd with.

Hi Folks, I may have found a source for arrow tip antenna pieces. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/173930578522?hash=item287f12025a:g:LoEAAOSwh7ZdAEU3 Seller: https://www.ebay.com.au/usr/bozzas5?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 I've just ordered 1 on a bit of a punt, will see when it arrives how good it is or close to original. Even though I'm not missing the tips on mine, I have more than 1 240z in need of an antenna and may come across a broken mast/missing tip (common). So this could be helpful.

Also their prices are quite reasonable including shipping cost. The one order I have placed with them came in on time, and was very well packaged.

Another great new addition from KF is their front lower frame rails. They look to have all of the correct contours including the small offset at the front for radiator clearance. The internal reinforcements look just like OE as well.

Ouch mike... yes I saw these from KF, going to get them for mine, but your APS ones should be of high quality too. dare say your handling might be improved once you add some chassis rigidity! 😜

And there he is! The nice normal person. Hi mate 👍 No shame in working for Heineken. The big boys are at the forefront of innovation for hardware, something which we little guys benefit from. Also, after too many DDH NEIPAs etc I too crave the familiar simplicity of Macro lager from time to time. I'm a head brewer and certified beer judge. Been brewing professionally for about a decade in the US and now in France 🍻 Thanks for your message. I realised when posting that the thread was ancient but didn't know that precluded someone from reviving it. I have a bad habit of doing what I want and saying balls to anyone who says otherwise but I promise I'll play nice from now on. Have a great day. JB

Back to the original topic (harumph….). I’ve a L24/N42 combo in a 72 with crap for compression. 100-20-20-20-50-90. Oh oh…. This was an engine free spinning but not run for 10 or 20 years, cold with 10cc of oil added through plug holes, cranked until engine got oil pressure, which was almost immediately. Not number matching block, so something someone stuffed in. Block number is 90xxx, chassis has 160xxx mi. What’s left of it… So why the poor or absent compression? Did someone not notch the L24 block for the N42 exhaust valves? Bent valves? Not likely, #1,5,6 has SOME compression. Pulled the N42 head, its been rebuilt at some point, clean, all new exhaust valves some new intake valves, AND!!! the SHINIEST smoothest almost 99% no more hatching on the cylinder walls that I have ever seen. Stock 83.00 bore. This thing must have 500,000 miles on the short block. No matter what block I’ve seen (not rebuilt) the stock hatching is plain for all to see., Not this thing. Good new might be, fresh hone, fresh rings, and it might just drive away happy. Oh, and bores had been notched. Someone new enough to do that when this N42 head was put on, but didn’t bother to check the state of the bottom end. I suppose that’s why I’m parting out a rusty 72 now…..

Hi @280zxSpectrum Don't be too offended by the comments on this forum. It's just some members having a little fun. It's known as "posting to a zoombie thread". I made the same misstake on another forum and the admin, name starting wit T and ending with D gave me a trashing. Anyway, welcome to the club. Once you get use to us, some of us can be a little like the two old guys in the muppets, you will be fine. I see on your profile you are a brewer. Hobby, boutique of commercial brewer? Just being curious, I work for, dare I say, Heineken.

Yes, that lift is in my garage. It was the only way I was going to be able to keep the Z. The exhaust is from ZStory. Super nice quality, stainless steel with beautiful welds and turns. Sean at ZStory is great. This was less than getting a standard crap exhaust installed locally. I have a few challenges to overcome. I plan to install this back to front tomorrow. He’s the issue. My header collectors terminate into two 2” pipes. My headers came with a 2” Y pipe that would go to a 2” exhaust line. These Zstory pipes are 2.5” and have a V-band connector at the resonator. So I need to Y pipe with 2” inlets to a 2.5” v-band outlet. See all the below pics. If anyone has a solution let me know. I think I just to buy a Y pipe with 2” inlets and 2.5” outlet and have someone weld the extra v-band fitting Sean gave me to 2.5” outlet on the Y pipe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Let us know when you get it to the house.

Wow. I can hear the value of my 280 going up as I type!!

So neat. I had a Silver 72, one of many 240z's I have owned. Looks beautiful.