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After nearly 30 years, she has been brought back from the dead! So much still to do but wow is it an amazing feeling to actually drive it. Brakes need another bleed, throttle sticks at around 2k rpm, it rides like a boat, but I couldn't be happier!

Can it be a reflection? some spots are a copy of the spots on the top of the piston.. Anyway.. i do see some hone stripes.. not so bad.. give it a good clean.

WOW! A trip down memory lane. I actually built one of those for my VW bug. I could not believe how much more power I got after installation....LOL. 0-60 in 2 or 3 minutes. Cheers, Mike

There's a couple of kinds of scissor lifts - mine does give good access to everything.

Advantages of a scissor lift: Very sturdy. It's great for wheel/hub work including brake jobs. Can lift higher than a QJ. (I also have a QJ 5000) Less guessing about jackpoints than a 2-post. I used 2-post lifts often when I was in the Air Force. The thing I miss most about the military is the Auto Hobby Shop. Disadvantages of a scissor lift: Sits high. I have the car on 2x12s over the lift so the exhaust doesn't hit. Most are difficult to do centerline/transmission work. I did replace the driveshaft with the car on the scissor lift, but draining/refilling the transmission was a pain since I had to lie on one of the bottom crossmembers. The crossmembers can get in the way of simple things like placing your catch pan under the car for an oil change. Just one thing, if the scissor lift does not have locking points as you lift, you do NOT want it. A safe lift should have locks that require the operator to disengage prior to lowering.

As for the lift, are you talking about a QuickJack? I have a BL-5000SLX that I bought new through Home Despot (yeah, Despot) for about $1,000 almost two years ago. I see they're running $1,400 now. Works fine for my Ford Flex and girlfriend's Nissan Murano. If that's being offered at $400, take it. Haven't used mine on a Z yet but, when I do, the lifting will be done along the frame rails running down the entire car. I had Bad Dog frame rail "boosters" welded in during the rust repair prior to painting as I knew I'd be running higher torque than what the original L24 put out. Plus, I just love a stiff car on a twisty road. Regardless of my rambling on, my point is: DO NOT LIFT YOUR CAR THE FIRST TIME USING THE ORIGINAL JACKING POINTS. Those are likely to be very weak if there's even a hint of rust in the old girl. Get some 6-foot lengths of 2x4 and cut them to the length of that bodywork between each side's wheel wells. Then, put some latex paint along the bottom edge seam of the car and carefully press the 4-inch side of each board into that seam to transfer the paint. Then, when it's dry, router a groove along that paint line deep enough to accommodate the seam and then use those boards each time you want to raise the car using that lift. You could could even glue some old carpeting along the flat to protect and cushion the bodywork.

Hi Jerry. Just a thought. If originality is important, my car’s riser tube is original. the outside is some kind of fabric and is very close to “sailcloth white”, a paint I used to refresh mine. See pictures below. btw, good to see you back! Dan

Here you can see the Model Number and serial number. Just barely. CP-1060 is the model number. https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/heath_capacitive_discharge_ignition_cp_1060.html https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/heathkit-model-cp-1060-capacitive-discharge-ignition.929262/ This tag is about as sun baked and faded as the rest of this 72…. Best I don’t look at the google links, I don’t have time to be soldering a Heathkit oscilloscope or something silly…

Be careful with modifications on the factory EFI. It doesn't tolerate that well. I agree with cleaning it up and regasketing it

Only reason I took it apart was because the coolant was complete dried up wanted to make sure the jackets were good. One of the head bolts had a little rust next to a coolant jacket. So I’ll just clean it up maybe get some head work done for breathablity and keep the stock efi system and an electronic distributor call it reliable 190 hp 👌🏽👌🏽

Okok I’ve never seen an inside of a engine this up close and personal. The reflection threw me off. In pictures and videos it look like a stain ish reflex due to the cross hatches. thanks guys!

This the best instructions that I found but it doesn't address the throttle shaft itself being worn. https://windyridgefarm.us/documents/DIY_Guide_to_Re-bushing_SU_Carburetors.pdf

My Dad building Heathkits and his Amateur Radio hobby led to my career as a Industrial Electrician / Electronics Technician. When I was very young, I used to pick out the correct components so that he could assemble (solder) the kit. I learned to solder myself at age 10 by taking apart old radios. I think the coolest Heathkit that my Dad built was a Heathkit / Thomas transistor organ. He built it for my Mom in the 60's, and I still have it. It doesn't work as good as it used to, but someday I will go through it.

I got lucky and without a huge amount of digging, I found the thread I was thinking about. It was Blue. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/40433-su-mod-sealing-worn-throttle-bushings/

Yea my neighbor came over and said what was all the noise over here. I pulled in the street and I left it running for about a min but was worried I’d get some complaints. But there is good news.....Santa came early this year. Found this at my front door after sitting through 5 hrs grueling hours of my daughters Nutcracker Dress Rehearsal last night. 5 hours and her parts are 15 mins max. [emoji848] These pipes are big!!! Maybe overkill. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've done several throttle shafts with O-rings. @Jarvo2, Have you got any good pics of what ZT does? I've never seen one of their seals.

That was a bargain at free, no matter when. Thats a $2000 car now! 😉

I picked up this flood car a while back. It was originally covered in blackberries. This is after the seller had found it and cut the vines back. He had bought the property at a lien auction and found this there. A 73 that had an F54 280 block, N42 head, and early 4 screw carbs. wide wheels and a number of other savable parts. The price was much better back then = free!! No title as you might expect from this situation.

A potential meeting of the minds? I'd buy a ticket to get in on some.

I thought C.O. had pursued this also. @Captain Obvious

Sounds like something that would be best to come out of Oregon with a jar of jelly.

I used to use a Sharpie and write the contents on the Ziploc baggie. That wears off fairly easy so write the contents on a small piece of paper and drop it inside the bag. Made my rebuild easier to put back together when the time came. Nice looking early '72. Glad you're here on the best forum. Cliff

So I looked and it doesn’t have a zx distributor. I have a multimeter and I’ll use it. I’ll try and sort out the mess of wiring spaghetti and label everything and then sort out a coil.

Hot dang - that is one fine looking car! The quick and simple answer to your paint prep questions is YES - everything comes off for a good paint job. Bag and tag everything immediately as you remove it, don't rely on your memory. Become the zip bag king of your neighborhood! 😉 Throw nothing away until the replacement is installed. String tags are messy but effective at tagging both ends of electrical connections before they are pulled apart. Get some plastic tubs for your take-off parts and try to keep items closely associated in storage. Build a running "needs list" as you remove items that will need replacing. You can be acquiring the replacement items while the car is off at the paint shop. +1 on the lots of pics recommendation.

Heathkit has a place in my life for sure. My Dad and I built a number of kits in the late 60’s including, if you can believe it, our first color TV. Then shortly after we added the remote control option. It was an low ultra sonic transmitter. I could hear the beep tones when you push the buttons. The volume and channel knobs were powered and turned by a little teenie weenie fan belt and motor. You could see the knobs spinning from across the room! It definitely drove me to being the hands on tinkerer and eventually EE that I am proud now to be.

Just for the record. ordered and received these eBay SU screw sets. Excellent quality and perfect match for the old screws. If anyone needs new depression chamber or float cover screws don’t hesitate to buy these. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240Z-Float-Bowl-Suction-Chamber-Carburetor-Screws-Set-/164620649300?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 comparison with old screws, yellow zinc coating looks great thanks @Zup for finding them and sharing the link!

Yes, the O-rings are carefully placed so they run inside the bushings, thereby providing a seal (in theory). As for what the shaft is contacting while rotating... I haven't done any high level study to actually scientifically determine the contact locations, but my expectation is that there will be still be contact between the shaft and the bushings, but the O-rings will act as sort of a "spring" to center the shaft in the bushing. My belief is that centering spring will do two things: First, it will reduce the contact pressure (and hence future wear) between the shaft and the bushing, and... Second, the compliance of the O-ring will provide a seal against vacuum leaks "on the big gap side" even when the shaft is pressed fully to one side inside the bushing. I lube them when I put them in and haven't had any problems, and while my sample size is small, I haven't had any problems so far. One set has been running trouble free for a couple years now. Just another technique I sometimes employ in my carb servicing "business".

Don't forget that it may not be just the shafts that wear. The bushes may get 'ovaled' because of the suction load (enormous ) put on on the throttle plates when the engine is operating at closed-to-part-throttle. I suspect that Z-Therapy decided on using roller bearing replacements not just because of the lower friction, but also because it allows them to re-use the old throttle shafts without having to worry about the worn-out friction surfaces. I'm not optimistic about your chances of finding NOS replacements. I suspect that whatever was out there was scooped up by racers and carb rebuilders long ago. For that reason, you may be forced to re-use your old throttle shafts. If you do, I don't think you need to worry about excessive friction caused by the worn-off chrome plating on the shaft ends (although they're going to wear even faster now that the hard chrome surface is gone). The real problem is going to be air leakage into the carb body because of the excessive clearances between the shaft ends and the bushings. Years ago, CZCC member, @240260280 (aka Mr. Hoover) wrote an interesting article on the old AtlanticZ website about his attempts to solve the air leak problem by sealing off the exposed ends of throttle shafts on the outside of the carb body. He glued a small plastic cap over bushing boss on the 'flat' side. On the other side, where the shaft extends out of the carb body, he installed an O-ring that was pushed up against the side of the bushing boss (and where -- theoretically -- the suction from inside the carb would pull the O-ring up tight against the surface of the carb body to create a good seal). Maybe Phil will offer some comments here about how that worked out. From what I can see, capping the flat end is easy and should be 100% effective at sealing off that end. The effectiveness of the O-ring on the other side is debatable, and there's also the possibility of binding. Nevertheless, the overall approach seems cheap and painless to implement and it could reduce the air leakage problem by ~ 75%.

Thats because these screws are NOT Phillips #2 they are JIS.. a Japanese type of screw recognizable by the little dot near the cross on the head! However you can use a phillips screwdriver if you are a bit careful.. Before turning check fitment and sometimes first a tap with a hammer on your screwdriver will also help unscrew.