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I noticed this tread and have a couple of comments. There are three clocks talked about here which are all different and have unique problems. The 74 260z was delivered with two clocks. Very early 74 the clock was the same as the 240zand the later clock was the 280 version. So we have the 240, 280 and what appears to be a VDO clock that are all different. As far as the 240z goes if you put 21volts on any of the clocks you will cook the parts. This clock is very sensitive to dirt, grease and oil. If you look at the enclosed you will see what oil does to the clock gears. Oil collects dirt like a magnet and turns into grease. This is what stops the 240 clocks. Disassembly and cleaning is the only way to put the clock back in service for many years. Also, inspection of the bearing points in necessary or you will be disassembling the clock within a short time. Again the enclosed shows a worn bearing and this part needs to be re-bushed. All the oil in the world won't help this condition. The 280z mechanism has very few bearing points and does not need any oil. The caps on the circuit board are the main problem and the spring is the second as well as the pink gear (missing teeth) on the enclosed. The other problem is the coils on the circuit board. Either of the two can be open,shorted, or incorrect resistance. As far as cleaning DO NOT use the cleaning solution as mentioned. This is an old clock makes formula and is VERY VERY caustic / dangerous. This is as dangerous to your lungs as using epoxy paint without a respirator. The cost to make such a formula is about $60--80 depending on where you can get the items. Also, the ammonia(20%) can only be purchased at a chemical supply house and runs about $35 / quart! Also, this formula will destroy and degrade the nylon and plastic of your clocks. DO NOT use it. Isopropyl alcohol is the best solvent and yes it takes a little elbow grease, but it works. I am not a clock maker, but I have repaired , cleaned and refurbished many grandfather clocks as well as hundreds of 240- 280 clocks. Oiling is something you should due for a grandfather clock as it has weights that drive the mechanisms that weight several pounds. With this kind of force on pivot points and bearings need to be oiled. Our Datsun clocks do not have this kind of force on the pivots. The 280z mechanical clock has several bearing that support pivots that are plastic and they do not need to be oiled. The correct way to oil something, if you must, is one drop of oil on the bearing/pivot and wipe off all visible oil. Clock oils today are synthetic and have a much higher load and degree of temperature resistant than organic based oils of the past. Hope this helps. Ron

$850,000. I’m a bit disappointed, figured I would at least get over one million.

Today is the big day. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1968-toyota-2000gt-2/ $772,000 with six hours remaining.

Picking up where I left off, I primed inside the rear hatch area. In the spare tire well, I only sprayed to cover spots where bare metal was exposed during sanding. Since the spare tire well and tool door areas will be more visible when all is said and done, I have spent and will spend more time in these areas to make them look factory fresh looking when the car emerges from the paint booth. While spraying epoxy primer, I sprayed a few other items including a glass bead blasted tool compartment door (I got the car with one blue and one silver one), the two sand blasted hood hinges, and the insides of the front fenders. For the fenders, I put seam sealer in some important areas before priming.

Just checked the original windshield removed from my 7/70, and it measures 7mm (.275") thick.

Thanks Chas, I’ll read that tonight over a cold beer. So I decided to mock up the Xenon Valance on the car with clamps hoping it will take the original form and stop looking twisted . I’ll let it sit like this for a few days and see how it looks . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

well put it on already

$18,200!!!!!!!! I'm about to lose religion. If they made it brand new today it wouldnt go for this.

Lol yeah, pushed that old lady pretty hard 😀

HAHAHAHA... In third i go to prison as well !!! My standard 240z does 150kph in third.. how i know i tested it this last weekend! (Top is around 210kph.. Bart can ensure that hey Bart?) (Where was it i tested?? The autobahn.. Germany! (I always say that haha..))

How about one of these?

Oke guys. There is a guy on this forum (or he was, he sold the car shortly after completing the build) that had the same high air speed deflection issues with the Xenon pu air dam. It was a white 280Z and he fixed the problem by making several brackets to support the lower lip and that connect to the old lower grill mounting points. It might offer a solution to your problem. Just can't find his build thread. The clearance issues with the 240Z valence is not the 280Z bumper shock mounts. It is the lower frame section that goes under the 280Z radiator. The center section of the valance goes under the frame on the 240Z, but the 280Z is about 50mm lower than the 240Z valance panel.

Thanks Cliff.

Thanks Jim and I agree, but we’re living in a different world. It was hard to find anyone to do this kind work anyway. Paint/Body places where I live have little interest in doing any work except insurance work. I went to 4 places all said no thanks. How can I argue with her 6 hrs estimate? Remember the days when people appreciated your business? I can’t get people to come and work on anything around my house and when someone finally shows up they do below crap work, take 3x as long and leave a mess behind for me to clean up. Cliff, I get it now. I thought you were talking about the entire valance including the sides which I felt was impossible. Thanks for the clarification.

Jim, thanks here are a couple pics of mine.

He's sold it, sorry.

I'm looking for them many years .. i once found some but they were stupid expensive.. i need 2, 5 speed top inserts.

Those canon plugs were a PITA. the A-10 has one plug that we t to the ADI in the cockpit this ADI also rotated for heading so it rolled in the case like a ball free floating...that instrument had about 60 wires on one plug. Mix one up and the instrument went cuckoo, ask me how I know. At least I had the best tools in the world, I went from Snap-On then to Harbor Freight now. Thanks for the compliment but I won’t feel good until it actually runs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Aren't "collector cars" fun!

You use a Aluminium radiator? Let me just say this: There is no better radiator than a copper one!!! Personally i HATE those stupid aluminum (or aluminium) radiator makers.. they say their 3 row is a very good radiator... NO a 3 row COPPER radiator is MUCH better.. I don't no i have not tested it but i Bet that even a 2 row copper radiator cools better than a 3 row alu.. Yes a copper one is much more expensive, thats why the alu is popular.. not that it's better... All Z's & ZX's have copper radiators for a reason.. 👍