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Everything posted by zclocks

  1. View Advert 280z Rear light Finishers For Sale are 2 light finishers for a 280z. They are in good shape , but need refinishing. $49 for the pair plus shipping. Thanks for looking Advertiser zclocks Date 03/14/2019 Price $49.00 Category Parts for Sale  
  2. Hey Captain, The best option is if you can find a plating shop within driving distance. I 've tried many plating shops over the years and find that you should look for a shop that has been in business for many years. Most plating process are not difficult , but consistency is usually the problem. I have a place in CA, Van Nuys Plating, that does my plating and they do it all, are second generation platers, ,and at a reasonable cost. Call and talk to Linda at Van Nuys Plating vannuysplating.com . Check out their web site. Ron
  3. zclocks


    Hi Peter, Sent you a PM Ron
  4. Hey Gary, I'm sure each wheel is slightly different ( center hole) and maybe the cap dimensions might have have grown over years of production. I could get mine on without shaving them down, but like I said a mallet was needed to remove. Thanks....Ron
  5. I haven't started polishing yet and wanted to make sure I had caps and lugs fit the 14"wheels. I did see the other caps on eBay , but they are slightly larger than the MSA. I could get the caps on without removing any material , but it took a rubber mallet to get them off. Also, the stress on the plastic over time might crack the cap. By removing a few thousands the caps fit just like OEM and are easily removed. Ron
  6. I recently purchase a nice set of " Western" slotted mag wheels , but no center caps. Yea, I know not everyone likes the retro style, but it works for me. Making it short I spent many hrs on the web looking for caps. Seems that the most popular is the 2.75 inch push on caps and the ones I was looking for didn't exist. I finally looked at the MSA cat and found they had the 3.183 inch caps.Taking nothing to chance I took a wheel with me to verify that the caps would fit. WELL, they didn't. I purchased one cap with the idea that I could make it fit. What I've discovered is that the caps have a range of interference fit and most of what I was finding, with new caps, was this interference fit was 0.055 inch. This fit would not work with my wheels and I suspect with others. Anything more that 0.045 in and the fit was so tight you couldn't remove the cap by hand. I suspect that over the years the injection mold tolerance and thickness of copper /chrome plate have grown. However, with the use of my magic grinder I took off 0.006 in and NOW it fits very nicely. So if your looking to replace or need center caps keep interference dimension fit in mind. Ron
  7. zclocks

    Cadmium vs Zinc

    Hey guys here's another Caution. Be very careful around heavy metals . This stuff is accumulative in you blood/system and might not manifest itself as serious, but it is . lead and Cad can cause major health issues as well as DEATH and genetic defects.Heavy metals are hard to clear the body. Welding throws off many different gasses as well as soldering, yes soldering! Lead levels can sneak up on you if your shooting , soldering or welding. Wear a GOOD approved mask for welding or soldering. Your lungs will thank you down the road. Short story: When I was in an exhaust shop years ago I saw a guy welding a up an exhaust pipe without eye protection(dark lens). When I ask why he said he couldn't see what he was welding? I thought then I wonder when he'll go blind . Not more than 2 months ago I saw a guy on Utube demonstrating a welder WITHOUT glasses. Also, if you do any sand blasting WEAR a Mask. The silicone in sand and many abrasives can cause silicosis. This is caused by exposure to crystalline silica, which comes from chipping, drilling, or grinding soil, and, granite or other materials. ZC
  8. zclocks

    Cadmium vs Zinc

    I've seen this discussed several times here and I'll throw in my 2C worth. I have a plating shop who has done all my plating for clock housings, screws , tubing, and brackets. What I thought was Cad was really yellow Zinc and blue Zinc. Most all of the Yellow Zinc is for my 75 280, but I have a lot of yellow Zinc done for 240 Rally Clock oscillators and mis-hardware. Cad is not as bright as the yellow Zinc. Depending on the chromate used you will have a red or green hue to the yellow Zinc. It's hard to tell after all the years, but a plater can tell you the difference by stripping a plated part. ZC
  9. If you need a clock lens with bezel I have several that are very nice . Contact ron@zclocks.com
  10. This is a hand tool I made years ago.....
  11. I don't think the needle gauge from Amazon will work due to it's size. It might work, but needs to be modified. You can make a similar tool from a cheap pair of needle nose pliers. I did this yeas ago and it works very well. If you damage the hands I do have many in stock. As far as removing the screws on the back of the clock housing it takes the right size phillips and a lot of pressure to remove. If that doesn't work spray rust remover on the screws and let it set for a day or so before trying to remove ZC
  12. Hey Jim, They do carry it, but might be out of stock. Post if you find the parts or had to make one. The other question is the rubber still good? Mine was shot when I did my resto and had scratched the window.
  13. Zinc plate process will destroy your unit.
  14. Quartz mechanism Ouch! your really going the wrong direction when working on the quartz mechanism. The electronics with this clock is rock solid and good to about 50 pts per mil. I have never seen a bad Xtl or cap on these mechanisms. The problem is nearly always mechanical and usually missing teeth on the two nylon gears . There are other mechanical problems , but to lengthy for this post. Std 280 mechansm If your going to work on the ckt board you need to: 1- make sure the coils are good. If the flywheel slightly moves it doesn't mean the coil isn't shorted or it will work if you replace all the parts. There are 2 coils , each has a difference resistance, and there are 2 versions of the ckt bd! 2-You need to replace ALL 3 caps (with exact values)and the tran. As mentioned in "DAVE WM" video the coil wires are very small, about 38 gauge , and a bear to replace. You can do everything right and still cook the coil in the process. Difficulty for replacing these parts is VERY HIGH, Unless you have done a lot of micro soldering and have the right tools I wouldn't attempt to replace these parts. Just my 2C Zclocks
  15. You have two different problems. The back lights could be a ground to the lights or you lost pwr for the lights . Turn signal could be the same kind of problem .
  16. Motor man. I've tried the Equus conversion and it's not as easy as the author makes it look. However, The dash looks very nice. How long did it take to have the dash recovered? . Zclocks
  17. I know it's been a while since this article was written and it's very good. Including the photos makes it a lot easier to understand. I've made this conversion several times without problems. The one comment I have is the 280z unit that was used is from a 77 or 78 280z. The 75-76 280z has the same font and face plate as the 240 including the 6500 red line. If you use a 75 or 76 280z tach for this swap you don't have to touch the face plate or needle. Makes things a lot easier. Zclocks
  18. I now have New Rally Clock Oscillator box by Zclocks. This photo is the first one out and currently taking orders., It's a plug and play if you have your own circuit board or I can supply a complete working oscillator . Contact me at :ron@ zclocks.com for pricing and info.
  19. Dave, You got real lucky with just a cap that was bad. In my experience the tran goes bad all the time and the two coils do drift to the point that they are not usable. Nice wording on UBER careful when soldering around the coil wires, that can't be stressed enough. They are about 35 gauge and easily to overheat. I haven't seen a Simpson 260 for years and loved the one I had when I was in the service. Good job!! Ron
  20. zclocks

    Oil the Clock?

    I'm fairly new to this web site and have seen several articles on clocks. This is of particular interest to me as I do have some experience with total clock reconditioning. I've been repairing, refurbishing and specializing in 70-83 Datsun /Nissan clocks for the last 8 years and thought I would pass on several bits of trivia and technical information. I never really thought about NOT using oil on a clock as that seems to be common knowledge until a friend came to me years ago with a 240Z clock. Bill knew I worked on all sorts of electronic hardware and was soliciting my input. His problem was that his clock had stopped (like it was the only 240 clock that didn't work). I have a 75 280z and my clock has always worked. I was wondering why bills didn't? I took has clock apart and began to understand why. Bill said he had removed the clock and flushed it out with WD-40? and then lightly oiled all the components. The clock worked for several months and then quit and this was the second time for this occurance. After I looked at the clock in detail I could see why. The automotive environment is very tough on all the components and the most critical parts are hermetically sealed. The first generation 240Z Datsun clocks were not hermetically sealed and susceptible to all the dust, dirt, chemicals, humidity and temperature. JECO, the Datsun subcontractor, who built most of the Datsun clocks never used oiled for good reason. Oil attracts all the nasty contaminants that can wear out critical clock components and eventually grinds the clock to a halt. I know I know everyone always uses oil on their grandfathers clocks. If you think about it we change our engine oil which is filtered for the very same reason, so that the engine will last longer and not wear due to....the dirty oil. The first generation clocks (240z) have what's called a "NO LOAD" motor which keeps the main spring of this clock contiguously wound. The rest of the clock consists of gears, paws, and bearings that rotate and work in unison to move the clock hands. The problem is that any gear or bearing that produces friction slows the entire clock and if sever enough the clock will stop. Are you beginning to see a pattern here. Oil that is used to lubricate (all oil) coats the surface of moving parts and eventually starts to collect contaminants. Eventually this causes the viscosity (on a micro level) to thicken and produce resistance to the overall clock operation. In addition the change in temperature alone will change the oil viscosity. Believe me when I say it takes very very little resistance in any of the clock parts to stop this mechanism. When solvent other than alcohol is used to "flush" the clock all your doing is removing the contaminants, but when you apply oil you start the process all over again. If you don't mind removing your 240z clock every year or so then I guess that's ok. After helping Bill reinstall his clock I'd opt for a clock that would work forever (we did but that's another article). The 240z guys and girls have a rough time compared to rest of us removing and installing their clock. That is unless the dash is removed. This is what I have found works the best, denatured alcohol. You should remove each and every clock part, clean all parts with an artists brush, inspect the cleaned parts, and reassemble (NO OIL). Let me say that again...NO OIL.This can be a rather daunting task and is not for the weak of heart or those with limited patience. I know this works because I've cleaned way to many 240 clocks and I still have one of Bills 240Z clocks on my test bench. It works and it keeps pretty good time. It doesn't get much outside time, but that's why it's still working. If I get enough interest I'll write a weekly article on "how to" for each of the four generation clocks. Like what goes wrong, how do fix it, what's interchangeable, how do I clean it, what kind of paint to use and so on. Hope this was helpful and please give me feedback. Thanks.........Ron
  21. dhayes5, Deoxit is basically a contact cleaner and should work. However, most of the 240 mechanisms I have seen look like the attached photos . Most cleaners are not aggressive enough to remove all the grease, oil, and dirt. The other problem is bearing wear . The best way is to completely disassemble the clock , clean , and inspect for damage. Hope this helps
  22. I have both the parts you are looking for. You can contact me @ ron@zclocks.com The 3D printers do not have the detail to hold the tolerances required for the motor gears. Ron
  23. Hey d3c0y, If you measured the feed through to ground and it was shorted then one can surmise that the capacitor internal to the feed through was shorted. However, I have not seen one that was shorted , but I always measure the case to feed through just to make sure. One question I still have is what is the capacitance of this feed through and what noise is trying to be eliminated, frequency? I'm not sure this feed through is relevant to the OEM ckt bd as there are several internal caps on the subsequent ckt bd(s) that take care of this potential problem. The OEM ckt boards have 3 revisions , C_D_E over the years, and I have tracked each trying to understand what they , JECO, was trying to do. Not sure if this feed through was very useful after the first revision other that a convenient place to connect the power wire (red) to the (green) motor power. Not sure if it's relevant to your ckt bd , but what I have observed on the OEM bd is that there is only an input resistor for current limiting and a Zener pull down to clam the voltage. In my opinion if Jeco was concerned with noise then why didn't they address this in a ckt up front and the voltage, full wave rectifier. Subsequent clock manufactures , Kanto Seiki and Citizens both have DC filtering on their clocks. One of my pet peeves is that Datsun protects the clock on a 10 amp fuse? Most clocks only require 15- 20 mili amps so why put it on a 10 AMP ckt!!! By the time the fuse blows the clock will be a puddle of metal. .The only protection in most clocks is a simple resistor that has to melt before it protects the ckt. I've seen this in the std clocks, calendar and the 2-knob rally clocks. The clocks in my cars are all fused on 1/4 amp fuses and that is still high .Not that there is a problem, but come on 10 amps! All the 240 and 280 clocks are fused on 10 amps by Datsun . Anyway. enough of my ranting. Hope this was of interest to someone. Ron (Zclocks)
  24. Back from vacation and looked through my photos of the RC wiring. When I mention POWER in the photos it's 13.6 vdc . Also, this is the wiring colors for the original OEM osc, harness, and motor. The color stripe on the wires match up with the same solid color wire on the osc connector. The exception to this is that the signal wires , White and Yellow, can be interchanged. ie: white strip can connect to the solid yellow wire and visa versa. The signals can a be reversed and not cause a problem. Let me know if you have any questions on the photos.
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