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SteveJ....can i fly you out to my house for a couple days? 😀

Dash is in for good now. Wiring being completed this week as well as the installation of the console and heater control panel.

I just spotted a date comment by Chris Karl on FB. The ZCON 2022 dates are July 25-30, Birmingham, Alabama. He noted that the website should go up this week. The judged car show will be an indoor event per pics he has posted.

I've been watching the Zs going to auction, and selling on eBay an Craigslist for a little over a year now. When I got sent home for Covid quarrantine last year I spent the time catching up on the Z scene. The dramatic increase in value of these cars astounds me. I have a small collection of S30s, mostly parts cars that were free of very cheap, and guys are pestering me to sell them one or two for crazy money, $5,000 to $10,000. For an duster incomplete rusted shell. It is fascinating to watch the final bid results, and see the fluctuations. Also of note are the cars that come up a second or third time, and either sell for about the same, or less than previously. Also interesting to see a car that is clearly in need of major work go for cubic dollars, and one that is a good to very good condition original fail to meet reserve.

"It's not the heat as much as it the humidity" I hate that saying, hot is hot no matter the adjectives but those new dates are smack dab in the hottest part of our summer. High heat warnings everyday but Barber's is very nice. I'll be at the pool attending via classiczcars.com. Night time is the right time in July and August. We'll have our nightly safety meetings at the host hotel bar area. I can't wait!

Oh Yeah! It was a June scorcher for sure. I had a female rider from Japan at the COTA event. No A/C in the car, she began to suffer heatstroke and we had to move her to a late model car with A/C.

YARB is right. Change them both. For a start if you haven't done the the job before, the first one will take too much time. After that, the second one will take half the time. Also, if one cylinder has failed, there is no reason to expect its twin has much, if any life left.

Looks like you didn't quite get the signature thing. Maybe you didn't click save, it's not obvious. Here is what the page looks like (thanks Steve). For some reason it's in Account Settings even though it is actually a Profile thing (I spent 5 minutes looking through Profile to try to find it in the past). Makes no sense, it's not a setting. Anyway... Just type stuff in the box and click Save.

Dang it. I was hoping for nice weather. Oh well, they have to snag Barber when it's available. 😞

Easy to do but recommended you change both sides. Pressure differential sometimes will blow the other side. Check your shoes to see if they are wet.

I have a 1973 so I am not sure that your set up is exactly the same as mine. Having said that, I believe up under the passenger side you will see a bank of connector blocks. Your wire harness is separated into a few pieces. If memory serves me there are 4 larger connectors with 10 pins in each. There is a also a few individual connectors. The 4 larger connector blocks (black white green and blue) connect the dashboard or instrument harness, hatch area harness, to the engine harness. The relays for things like the horns, and wipers are located on the passenger kick panel and are connected with individual connectors. There is also an “L” shaped connector that connects the hazard relay. Another for the main power from the battery to the fuse block. Can’t remember other detail at this moment. Anyway, I would start by taking copious notes and labeling the various individual connectors, and I would disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected until the issue is resolved. Write down the order of the 4 larger connectors, they are colored and I believe keyed. I think there is a good chance that the problem is one of the relays, but that is just a guess from some of the things that you posted. Don't conclude anything based on guesses. You can troubleshoot this to the point where you can eliminate the actual issue, and not waste time or money replacing items that are not damaged. After labeling all of the connectors I would disconnect them from the engine harness and see if the short still exists. If it is gone than reconnect one connector at a time to determine which harness has the issue. If the short is not removed then I would disconnect the individual connectors. If everything is disconnected and you still have an issue then the problem is likely to be in the engine compartment. I say likely because there is always the possibility that a previous owner has added or modified something. Once you figure out which area has the issue then I would get a schematic and track it down. I have a laminated schematic in the garage and will post a picture when I can, a bit later today. If you do not have a meter or short detector you need to buy one, you can get something fairly inexpensive. You may be overwhelmed, frustrated and confused right now. Electrical systems are similar to plumbing, without some of the sloppy mess. Go slow, take your time do one thing at a time and draw a conclusion. If your not sure post the question. Write down what you are doing and what the results are so the forum can help you. It may take a while but you will get through it.

While the Z community is well served by a couple of specialty manufacturers of replacement body panels, there remain certain large panels that can usually be sourced only by taking a replacement panel from a donor vehicle. Examples would be the hood, roof, hatch, outer and inner door panels, firewall, inner front fenders, rad bulkhead, and the tail panel. Nissan has recently previewed a new technology that permits large, complicated-shape panels to be formed without a die. While it's probably intended to serve the collision repair industry, it's conceivable that they might be talked into doing short runs of panels for older classics like the Z and Skyline. Here's a video from the auto industry daily blog, Autoline Daily:

This is very cool technology, here is a link to a post from @Mike a couple of years ago when it was first announced. The video shows the process in a little more detail.

Who needs a website anymore? Me. I'm not on Faceplant. The place is, and almost always has been, a very toxic environment. Too much drama. And it appears Zuckerberg and company are on the hot seat again. Won't be long and the house of Faceplant will crumble. Or not. When you wield the kind of monetary clout that Zuckerberg does, not much can stand in your way. A web presence rocks. Access via a laptop or even better, a desktop with a 27" monitor. My old eyes can't abide those little phone screens. Even with glasses.

Can't remember your year of car or I'd post a link but the big full-car wiring diagrams show the fusible link circuits.

Photos and the correct year in the signature help a lot! It's the wiring for the defrost switch.

And, from what I heard, Austin 2017.

Memories of Memphis in July, 2015!!! 🥵

ok should be up now. I tried to post image of car and it was too big...i think that is what stopped it.

It's not too difficult. A screw or two on the backside, some brake line fittings. If you're handy I think it might be possible to do without removing the shoes. Shoe installation is more difficult, with all of the springs and clips.

Two BaT 260Z auctions ending in less than 90 minutes, one with no reserve. Both look to be pretty nice and they are still well under 20K. The silver one sold for 46K on BaT in 2017. Interesting that neither one had many comments or communication from the sellers. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-50/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-51/

So, I took a few snap shots from the service manual: top right corner depicts the 4 connector blocks that are tied together. Pin out detail is on right. Below is a lamenated schematic that I think I got from Bonzai Auto works Hope it helps. Let me know if I can help.

hey @James Que this message board has issues with `.heic` images. If I'm correct these are photos that are shot on a iPhone and might be uploaded from a Mac... You'll have to export the image as a `JPEG` so that other forum members can see the image on the website. I've exported the image and attached it below. I'm not familiar with the safety features for a 280z, but isn't there a triggering circuit for that relay that is related to the oil pressure from the sender? There was a similar circuit added to a 260z to prevent the pump from running in the event of an accident. I've also attached the export window in the `Preview` application if you are using `Mac OS`... if not please ignore, just know that the `.heic` images are not visible... `Preview -> File -> Export -> JPEG` @Mike possible to have the media service automatically convert `HEIC` to `JPEG`?

Good to know, I should have mentioned the year. My car is a early 1973 240z. I started the car then turned it off and disconnected the battery to remove the gauge.

Or there is something else that went wrong at the same time, I don't like to assume. I think a model year would be helpful.

He said the car won't start without the ammeter. That says it is not one that relies upon a shunt.

the assumption is you have a ammeter with an internal shunt. Later models like my 75 used as external shunt, in which case no need for an ammeter connection to complete the circuit.

Trying to replace the u-joints in my ‘72 240z (r180), and the moog 393 replacements aren’t fitting in correctly to allow for the retaining clips to seat fully. Decided to measure the new vs old ujoints and the new ones are ~2 mm bigger Than the ones I took off. Any advice on what else to try? The caps are the right size, the body just seems to wide. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I was also looking at a 93 Honda Civic wiper motor on RockAuto.com. It looks the same as what ZCarDepot has.

Now THIS is the way to frame a request for help. If you are worried about having a short that will fry the fusible link, there are several ways to assess the risk. Remove the fusible link and use a voltmeter and measure from the wire coming off the solenoid (for the fusible link) to the positive battery cable. If there is not a short, that should read 0V Measure resistance between the wire coming off the solenoid (for the fusible link) to ground. If it reads less than 10 ohms, you have a significant load or short. If you have less than 1000 ohms, you will have a pretty good battery drain. Use a 12VDC test light between the wire coming off the solenoid (for the fusible link) to the positive battery cable. If it lights up, you have a short. (Be sure to test the test light across the battery terminals to make sure you have a good bulb.) I would post photos with examples, but I have a gas tank sitting in the way on the garage floor right now.

Hey guys, I know I'm late to the party here and it's probably been discussed but I finally got my Honda motor to function properly on my late '78 Z. It does it all! Intermittent, low, high and parks it correctly when turned off. I am happy to give complete details but basically it will work without adding any relays or disconnecting anything. I bought the motor from zcardepot and a used connector from ebay. This motor has a 5 pin connector and the Z has a 6 pin. The Z connector wires change colors at it's connector. These are the colors on the harness side, not the original motor side. H=Honda connector, Z=factory connector (H)grn/blk=(Z)blue/rd (H)blk=(Z)blk (H)blue/yel=(Z)blue/yel (H)blue=(Z)yel/blk (H)blue/wh=(Z)yel Leave(Z)yel/grn disconnected

It is a broken-off section of the electrical system's reverse encabulator mounting block.

Started working on the dash again. Waiting on a few items to ship out and should have it in the Z very soon.

Few updates over the weekend. Buttoned up some loose ends and got to drive the Z for the first time. Pretty cool to have it move under its own power after being dormant for 31 years. Feels very crisp and tight. Got all but the transmission diamond vinyl installed, and headliner. Ill get some photos of that. I did remember to snap a picture of the jute material for the transmission tunnel. Was able to use the originals as a template to make two new pieces. Tires also mounted to the original steelies, I need to get a full vehicle shot with them.