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You are probably on a forum with the most gracious, kind and helpful people you will ever encounter on a car forum. The regulars on here are highly experienced but also very forthcoming with advice tips and a myriad of other virtues. In life you get what you give. When you have concerns about advice given or published in the Nissan manual its fine to ask why but it’s really not a good idea to try and respond with a underhanded or sarcastic comment. I think is is a good idea to search the forum, read the details of your area of concern. If the answers don’t satisfy you or you have questions it’s absolutely fine to reach out and get clarification. Honestly Siteunseen sent you the link to everything you needed, he did the search for you. Being on a forum is no different than walking into a conference large room where you get to raise your hand and ask a question. I’d ask you how you would approach that in real life? Maybe something like “Hi, my name is Dam I own a xxxx Z that I’m restoring and have a lot of questions and was hoping someone could steer me in the right direction on a engine removal technique “. We’ve allowed social media to change the manner in which we deal with people and we need to take a step back and treat social media interactions the same as you would real ones. Its a problem of this new social media world where are all in and where it’s okay to say something you’d never say to someone’s face....Something to think about ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay I'm a pervert, I'll admit that but I apologize for going to the dark side after reading the above. Would someone please agree with me? Steve is my hero and I don't wish to upset him.

You're in that weird area of talking like your "informed" but asking uninformed questions. Basically, your comment says "not really excited about doing things the way the Nissan engineers designed them and used for the full lifetime of the Z. I don't want to use the factory installed removal hardware that Nissan installs on every single engine that leaves the factory. " Think about that for a while. (TATFAW)

You registered two weeks ago, youve got 14 posts, and you're asking us how one would steal a Z?

Few updates over the weekend. Cleaned up the ash tray on the Z. Was very fortunate this wasn’t broken in a million pieces. test fitted the muffler and mounting brackets. Fit looks great. Got the air cleaner finished up and installed. Few more routings jobs left and the engine bay will be buttoned up. I also pulled the steering rack out and swapped out the U-joints. Didn’t realize the slop there was in them until after the column was reinstalled. Now it’s as tight as a drum.

Yeah, I'm not sure I did a good job of putting my thoughts into words. Av8ferg did a much better job than I did. So let me try again... So you think this forum exists for the purpose so you can ask us every question and you don't have to do any research yourself? is that why we're here?

LOL. I think everyone agrees with you. Steve should never admit it in public, but it's just all way too well done to be "coincidence". No. Absolutely not. That's just about perfect. Maybe the only thing that could have possibly been a tiny bit better would be if you decided that the tire inflator was risky because it generated too much pressure, so the wife had to resort to something a little more gentle. Like blowing into a tube or something.

I've been working off and on to make a wood steering wheel from a donner. 1) I stripped the old foam, sanded and powder coated the steel hub and spokes. 2) Cut up some walnut that sat around for 25+ years, soaked it in Cactus Juice wood stabilizer under vacuum, then let it soak up the juice for a week before baking it. 3) Resawed the wood and created two hexagons from the pieces, glued them together. 4) Made a router jig to cut circles, then cut a grove in the wood for the steel rim to fit in, then used the jig to cut the outside and inside diameters. 5) Glued up the two circles, sandwiching the steel rim and a 1/8-inch sheet of blood wood (also treated with Cactus Juice. 6) Routered a round over on the inside and outside of the steering wheel. Screwed up once breaking a 1/4-inch router bit and ripping out a bit of wood. 7) Sanded, sanded, and sanded. 😎 Finished with wipe on varnish. Now I'm waiting on someone to train me in using a Haas Mini Mill to make a new center coin for the padded horn button.

That’s awesome, never seen that. Amazing we have so much knowledge available at any time from anywhere. Oops…not everyone, we can’t include the likes of Captain Obvious here. He’s still using a fax machine and western union. I will say it’s easier to ask “The forum Librarian”, Siteunseen than to do your own search he’s got all the forum topics categorized like the Dewey Decimal System?

Starting a list Hotwire, slip it into neutral and push onto trailer, dig a hole underneath and let it drop into secret underground garage, helicopter lift via straps, tell tow truck driver to take it to your house, slip the owner a pill during dinner then take the keys, via hot air balloon lift but need to work out logistics. Bash out window and find the hidden key under the visor and start it, Hope it’s a race car and starts via a flip switch…

Haha!! Life's funny that way, huh? So durometer would probably be relatively easy. Especially if you're really only interested in the relative difference between the two. But other than that... Maybe you could go back to the office for a visit, and while you're there... Take a spin around the test lab one last time?

Love TATFAW

I'll add don't overthink or get intimidated, just get a good plan after researching the previous posts. It's really easy. I did my 1st one by myself after reading this book. It's the Z Bible if you ask me. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Nissan-Datsun-Engine-Publisher/dp/B004X9A0OA

Beautiful as usual, could you share the details on the steering rod Ujoints?

No expenses spared on this one. One question, is this going to be a driver? YOu have set the bar here.

As @zKars said, the aftermarket door trims are not curved. If you are not successful at warping them into shape and still have the OE pieces, consider transferring the new fuzzy strips to the OE trim. They can easily be attached with a series of pop rivets spaced about 3" apart. I went thru this entire process years ago, did not want to risk damage to new paint trying to force fit aftermarket trim.

Haha!! Exactly who I was thinking of when I wrote that! Thanks for picking that up! Ack!!

Not sure its wise, but with all my vintage cars I have owned, I've always left them unlocked (short term stay). I figured since I dont leave anything worth value in my cars, its better to let them get in and rummage and leave, instead of sourcing windows, fixing scrapped paint and dents. Like Speed Racers brother said, if someone wants in, there getting in, might as well soften the blow and cost. I do like some of the camera tech thats out there now that records on any bump of the car or break in.

I always liked pulling the rotor.

Hahaha!!! It's true!! In fact, I just got a new one! And... I hated it so bad* that after a short usage time (one month maybe), I just got ANOTHER new flip phone of a different brand. The new-new one is more advanced than my previous flips. I handed it to my son yesterday and in a matter of minutes he was laughing at funny videos on youtube. So it's got that. I might never use it for that, but it's clearly capable. So ppppbbbbhttttt for all you guys who think I'm stuck in the 1990's. Hahaha!! * IMHO, it should have never left the factory. If I wrote the software on that POS, I would have been fired on the spot.

Are you trying to figure out how to protect your Z? Locked garage Armed security Live in a gated community with security Always park so the drive wheels are inaccessible Pull the rotor out of the distributor cap and put it in your pocket

If you don’t like reading and are more visual there are atleast 20 YouTube videos that show this process. I made this even easier How to

Are you going to ask the same questions on every Z-car forum that exists? Slow down, do your homework and read the references provided. And if you use the lift points provided by the manufacturer (as shown in the photo earlier in the thread) it's reasonable to presume they will work correctly.

The originals are curved to fit the door curvature, but the new ones aren’t. Yet. Without the correct curvature you will likely experience what you are seeing. I have found the new ones are softer than the originals and will bend if you “help” them, but be careful not to cause any kinks.

No..no... it's TATFAW

Is this for a Ford Pinto? 😉 Try removing item 20 from item 16. Give it a good shot of penetrating oil and let it soak in for a few days before risking breaking it off.

I suggest your premise is not correct. I believe there would still be a need for this forum even if you googled every question. TATFAW. Better yet... Let's try that to find out.

Here's what I did for about $50. The end of the job...

That's a head built for a RH drive car most likely. I had the same problem with an Uber expensive spirit garage header that is now wall art. I now have a fujitsubo and it bolted right up, great clearance to the rest of the SG exhaust. You can clearance the primary but it won't be pretty. Good luck.

Did you even bother to click on the link that @siteunseen politely posted? When you do a google search that includes classiczcars.com, the result are primarily focused on this forum. A lot of times you get more focused results than by using the search button on this site. In Site's example you get the following, and if you click more results, you get 3 plus pages of relevant results from our forum. I will also mention that if you search from our forum with quotation marks, ie: "engine removal". you will get results for the phrase in quotations. Which also gives a good list of results. I suspect you already know this, but by reading your blunt requests for help it doesn't appear that you have the time to search for yourself. Maybe you should think about that for a while, oh and yes I do have better things to do.

I suspect the specifications you seek would only be available through two sources... 1) The manufacturer(s). And I agree that it would be unlikely they would be willing to share that level of detail. and... 2) Someone who has purchased both and had them analyzed to determine the detailed specs. Maybe you'll find someone who has already done that analysis and is willing to share, but I think it's a long shot. Good luck with the venture. Have you considered using rubber bushings instead?

You're asking us with all that experience? We need you!

Set some time aside and read. It's been gone over many times and you will learn the tricks/shortcuts. Very easy with the right preparations. https://www.google.com/search?q=280z+engine+removal+classiczcars.com+&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=WpdPYdLgGsKygge18KiwCQ&oq=280z+engine+removal+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBADMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKsCMgUIIRCrAjIFCCEQqwI6AggpOgUIKRCgAToECCkQRzoFCCkQgAQ6BwgpEAoQoAE6BggpEBYQHjoECCkQCjoNCCkQxwEQrwEQDRCTAjoOCAAQ6gIQjwEQjAMQ5QI6BQgAEIAEOgsILhCABBCxAxCDAToICC4QgAQQsQM6DgguEIAEELEDEMcBENEDOgsILhCxAxDHARCjAjoLCAAQgAQQsQMQgwE6CAgAEIAEELEDOgsILhCABBCxAxCTAjoLCC4QgAQQxwEQrwE6BQgAELEDOggIABCxAxCDAToICAAQgAQQyQM6BQgAEJIDOgQIABANOgcIABDJAxANOgYIABAWEB46CAghEBYQHRAeOgUIABCGA1CULljI3AFg0OcBaAJwAHgAgAHFAYgBwx2SAQQwLjI2mAEAoAEBsAEe&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp

Yes, pretty much narrows it down to the rear carburetor. I'm not sure if the SUs have an idle circuit but that's what it sounds like.

If all 3 on one carb are like that, I would start there. Maybe stuck choke or choke cable binding up

That wasn't a good choice for "The Thinker", hindsight is a bitch. Looks more like me sitting on the toilet. The "stinker".

I finally decided to replace the gasket for the intake & exhaust manifold today. I also found some clues as to why my previous effort to tighten the intake didn't work. Among other things, I got a really good view of where about 17 years ago I found that a stud was missing near the #6 exhaust. I just didn't have the skills back then to take things apart and put in a new stud. I also found the nut was missing under the #5/#6 intake runners. More on that later. I also had one stud around the exhaust come out with the nut attached. Fortunately, I had spare studs already on hand. After working everything loose, I removed most of the old gasket. I had to scrape off only a little remaining material. I thought it was clean enough for the new gasket. I worked the new gasket into place relatively easily. Before putting the intake back in place, I took a quick look at it. There was definitely an exhaust leak at #2. Also, there were signs of a leak below the #5/#6 intake runners. I did wipe it down a little. You can see the smears below the intake. Anyway, I got the intake and exhaust cinched down nicely, and the carburetors are back in place. Tomorrow, I will re-balance the carburetors since I hope I have rid myself of all of the leaks around the intake and exhaust.

Couple details updated on the Z. Working on the exhaust system now, should have that wrapped up soon. For now, much of the body has been reassembled. New/replated hardware used throughout, and picked up an excellently restored set of side marker lights and license plate light from @jfa.series1. Original turn signal housings received a deep cleaning, lens polished, and new hardware sourced.

Here's a couple of close-up pics of my wheel in process some years ago, one with it stripped and one with it stained and topped with a coat of clear lacquer. The preferred clear coat today is usually spray polyurethane. I used a hand-rubbed oil base stain.