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I'll see what I have for ECUs here. I don't know if I can tell anything from the label, but I'll look. So here's to hoping the lean boot thing just doesn't come back, but in reality what will probably happen is that it'll occur when you're dressed nice and don't want to go popping the hood and pulling wires off and all that. Haha!

Thanks for the link Chas! All thats assembled and I had a very kind forum member ship me a really nice used 23t gear which we used

I used a satin black on the spokes I lightly sanded the rim and restained it then some spray can urethane

Darn it. I just sold a Bridgestone spare to Randy Jaffe a couple of months ago.

It's not supposed to turn easy. They designed it so the threads are intentionally tight. They don't want that thing screwing in over time as you use the brakes. But it shouldn't be impossible to turn either.

Many months ago I posted a query on this forum. At the time I had two interior door panels in rough shape. They had been bought without door-latch holes and my attempts at cutting my own had failed - perhaps by 1/8 to 1/4 inch, but enough to make an ugly scene. My usual supplier, MSA, had new ones on back order for months, and I was becoming convinced they would ever have them. So I asked this forum for suggestions. ZKars and one or two others answered and referred me to Zcar Depot, a firm I had not previously dealt with. I called, and yes, they have them in stock; door latch openings pre-cut. Ordered a set. Have to say I was very impressed with the package. The panels were bagged in clear plastic, then perimeter-wrapped with thick straps of felt, then inserted is a form-fitting cardboard box. That box in turn was set in a slightly larger box, so four layers of protection altogether. Open it all up, and everything was good. It took me a while to get around to installing the panels - winter you understand, and my heated garage is occupied by my next project, and 1965 sprint car - but I finally did the job last month, and while the installation process is a time-consuming pain, the new panels fit perfectly and look sharp. Thanks to ZKars and others who steered me in the right direction. Richard

As @Captain Obvious has mentioned in the past the "fuel pressure regulator" in a stock 240Z or 260Z is the orifice on the return line of the fuel rail. The 280Z was the first with a stock FPR.

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

An hour isn't enough.

I'd drop the fuel pressure to around 3.5 psi and install a new set of spark plugs.

4.5 psi is pushing the limit on fuel pressure for carbs. 3.5 psi is better and will supply the engine with more than enough fuel.

I have a regulator and assumed it was on all 260z's. I attached a fuel pressure gauge and was told to keep the fuel pressure below 4.5 psi. I guess what I'm saying is to check your pressure especially if you have an electric fuel pump and mechanical pump both running.

Well thanks to an input from a datsun group i found an Oil pan i've been searching for for a while. Last time i lost the Auction, but this time i was better prepared, and today it finally showed up at my doorstep: The Promodet L6 Large capacity oil Pan: The manufacturer, Promodet Japan, is still active today, but is a well-known porsche tuner these days. I've seen those oil pans a few times in Japan, but they seem pretty rare. I wonder if anybody has mor information on their S30 / 240Z parts lineup they used to have? Old catalogue pages, advertising, etc anyone? would love to see the cars they used to belong to, and what else they offered. It is made from cast Aluminum and has an additional baffle plate, something that looks like small cooling fins and an additional plug for an Oil temperature sensor. I think the Blue fitting is not the original one, so i will try to find a plug that suits the whole thing better. Also the original drain plug seems pretty worn out. Luckily i have a new Nissan magnetic drain plug, which will go there: Here's a look at the baffle pan on the inside: It has some wear and tear here and there, but still seems to be in quite good shape: And for those wondering: here's a size comparison of the original 240Z oil Pan to the Promodet pan: Thanks to the person who pointed me to the pan!

Me too. You only need to straighten out the shipping bends. I picked up the full setup, all brake, clutch, and fuel lines, for my 72.

Thanks for recommending that flare tool, works like a charm. It also doesn’t mar up the outside of the pipe like the old style does. Flair from parts store pipe Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good. Glad that worked out. It's the little things!

thanks. took everyones advice. lot of penetrating oil. it finally broke free and i got the proper length set now.

Your tools look right but you can probably use the splines for the Vise-grips. I think that's why they are there.

Understood about the timing. Maybe you'll get lucky and it will never happen again. (Suuuuuuure). And I'm not proposing any theories yet... I'm just trying to come up with something, anything. to maybe point in the right direction. I'm thinking that if you do the "START with engine already running" a couple times and nothing changes, then maybe it REQUIRES the engine to actually come to a stop to reboot. Injectors need to stop injecting, coil needs to stop coiling... all that. On the other hand, if you do that test and the lean condition DOES go away, then there might be some info to be gleaned from the fact that the engine does not need to a complete stop in order to make the lean boot go away. Vibrations don't need to stop, starter does not need to suck a big hit of current from the battery. Alternator doesn't need to bootstrap. That kind of stuff. Just fishing at this point.

It's probably frozen up. Try to heat it up and some penetrating oil

I'd suggest going over every aspect of the tune-up again to ensure each setting is correct. Further, rebalance the carbs to ensure you haven't a linkage problem. If you're using choke until it's warm, that could mask the imbalance.

30 years ago - it was a $3,500.00 example. You have to wonder how much the Dealer paid for it, before he flipped it.

I got the stainless line replacements from Classic Tube. Reasonably priced and ready to go.