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Good news: my new master cylinder (Exedy) got here today. I installed it, bled the system, and was able to shift through all the gears. I was even able to shift into reverse without any grinding.

Hey thought I toss this out there. I’m in the UK and parts of Europe for the next week+ for work. I know we have some regulars on the forum from the old world and I thought I see if I’m going to be near any of you. I’m currently in Nottingham, UK. Will have about 90 hrs off here for the weekend. Flying to Liege, Belgium (staying in Maastricht, Netherlands) and also have a layover in Basel, Switzerland for about 17 hrs later next week. If anyone is near those areas let me know if you want to get a coffee and meet up. On the Covid front....Good to see the world opening back up. Stores and restaurants are open over here. Sitting in a diner now having a proper English breakfast...they eat baked bean with their eggs? When In Rome...you know the rest! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I finally put this to use while restoring the rear end cosmetics. See pic:

I did a similar bench-top experiment a couple of years ago (I was bored and curious -- a dangerous combination). I discovered that it didn't take much tab-bending to generate some pretty wacky float angles at shut-off. The 'cam-to-follower' geometry seems to be pretty sensitive. I thought about creating a little trig simulator on my laptop, but decided that I wasn't quite that bored. Or curious. I also tried weighting the float as a secondary adjustment strategy. It worked, but I didn't like my chances of gluing a dime onto the float and having the adhesive last more than a week or two. It would be fascinating to learn how the Skinner-Union and Hitachi folks did the design layout for the float and linkage in the first place. The whole thing just begs for an external adjustment screw. But were would the charm be in something that sensible?

roger that. got the bearing and sleeve all off and on no issues. It was quite simple. THe seal or bearing on the other end though by shifter....should i replace it? is it easy to? whats it called?

The 2nd post in the thread below has some good information. Take that measurement and see if you get close to 92 mm. Make sure the throwout sleeve is right for the pressure plate.

Was. But your distributor misalignment and spark plug wire mess wouldn't be related to a bad ballast resistor. You should make a list of each problem and how to fix it. You have several things that you need to do just get the engine started. There will be more problems to solve to get it running right. There's not going to be one thing that makes everything work right. And don't start any new threads.

Seems like many of us aren't reading other people's posts. Much repeating of advice, but, of course, the many threads on the same topic aren't helping at all. Shawninvancouver is definitely jumping around, but he has done a few things that have identified things that definitely need fixing.

Waiting for some front brake parts to come in, moved to funnest part on the rear, the spindle pins. Spent about an hour to remove just one pin using what I had laying around. Started with a 13/16" wrench around the pin OD and some washers to break it loose and start moving the pin in the right direction. Definitely use thread anti seize on the threads. Scrounged whatever I had, washers, old throwout bearings, wrenches, to build the spacing needed to pull the pin about an 1/8" at a time. Even used an old Mustang pitman arm as a spacer. Eventually the pin started spinning after travelled about 1.25", then I used a drift to pound in out the rest of the way. I've got one more to go, hopefully as easy as this one. From what I've read about these, I think I got lucky.

There is a product called "Seal-All" I believe. I once used it to seal up pinholes in an F350 fuel tank. Very fuel resistant. It might help to affix extra weight. Its like a cross between model car glue and clear caulk Edit for correct product name

Thanks for the input guys. I considered both shortening the needle valve and adding weight to the floats. At this point, it seems like I'm going to have to do something like that even though (in theory) I should not need to. I keep coming back to changes in gasoline formulation and density. Namerow, I completely understand what you're talking about with the wacky geometry. That's one of the things that has me wanting to keep the floats "about neutral" at valve shut-off. Because if you bend the tab down so far... too far... you can actually run the risk of the geometry changing direction and opening the valve back up again at extreme float angles. the valve pin kinda "slips off the downhill side" of the tab - if that makes any sense. I'm not sure you can achieve that extreme of an angle with the short ear lids, but with the 72 fronts you can. I need a way to keep the floats more neutral. Next chance I get, I think I'm going to mess around with adding some weight to see if I can fix this.

here is a shot from the 260 fsm shown here.. i think i have mine hooked up like this.. also.. the wire with power was the black white hooked up to left of ballast closest to front of car --

C'mon it's still light out....

here is a video using the test light... why no power out of balast? https://photos.app.goo.gl/wTuyQYuAueTwDbvU9 coil.MOV

Once this part is figured out it's on to carburetors! 😀

Yes, the step of the dowel pin should sit flush with the flywheel surface. Do NOT use the locktite that comes with the pins. It is only used with the non-stepped pins such as the oem nissan ones, not necessary since the stepped ones are captured by the pressure plate and can not come out. I had problems with the pins fitting and it was not the flywheel. Two of the three pins would not go in, I assume a qc problem with the supplier of the pins. Almost sent them to Capt O for lathe work. lol

Ah! I had no idea about this cleaning it off business and put mine together as is - a few thousand miles later and no clutch slip yet!! Fingers crossed [emoji848][emoji1696] Ps. LOVING the orange Z@Wally !!!! Orange Zs are 23.6% cooler than the rest! [emoji106]

Especially Authority. Just because one excels in one field, it doesn't mean one knows squat about anything else.

But since none of us can be an expert on everything, we all need other people to be our experts for us. And if we want to stay informed, we need news because we can't be everywhere at the same time looking with our own two eyes. The problem is in the choice of experts and the choice of news.* Me? I'm conservative. I believe that the cream eventually rises to the top. And of course it takes a little longer, but by the time it gets there, it's been vetted and investigated because the stakes are higher for the top. That's why I recommended the old school names who have a long standing reputation and have enough money to make them worth going after in court if they report false stuff. In other words... They have skin in the game. And because of that, the stuff they report has been vetted pretty thoroughly. If they screw up big, their reputation is at stake and their pockets are deep enough to make them worth going after. If a bunch of the old school big name news organizations say that "so-and'so did such and such" then I give it some credence. Until then, not so much. The smaller newer on-line organizations with no money? They pretty much say whatever they want and they're making money off the sensationalism. Sensationalism sells. It sells clicks, and it sells opinions. But it hasn't been vetted. And they can pass it all off as "opinion" anyway, so there's no accountability. Cream rises to the top. There's a reason. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ *If your expert is some guy on the internet posting stuff on social media, then I think it's time for an expert upgrade. If a quick google search of your expert turns up hits of them being banned from posting because of mis-information, then I think it's time for an expert upgrade. If your medical expert has Ted Nugent as a spokesman at traveling shows, it's time for an upgrade. If your choice for news is a "left-wing media outlet built around a Facebook Group and corresponding website. Established in 2012, it publishes false information, hyperpartisan content, and clickbait" it's time for a news upgrade. If your news is closely affiliated with the Falun Gong religious movement and "contains a mix of straight news, religious belief, conspiracy-peddling, Sinophobia, science denialism, legitimate grievance, and political expediency", then it's upgrade time.

My God at the Stars on that stage! Never heard this before.

We've posted about the correct distance from the slave cylinder bolt head to the fork. You might measure that at rest. That will tell you something about the TOB collar/sleeve inside. If it's too short the distance will be too long. It doesn't look like the fork is hitting the back of the hole. That's what usually happens with the wrong TOB sleeve/collar. Yous still looks like it's back farther than normal, but there might enough room to make it work even though it's wrong. The FSM shows the slave cylinder travel number. You could measure that to see if you're getting full travel. People have made their own slave cylinder rods to get more reach to the fork. But it might also be that the rod at the master cylinder is the one that needs to be extended. You said that you adjusted the pedal, but not the rod from the pedal to the MC piston. You can do that by loosening the lock nut and turning the rod with a pair of pliers, while everything is assembled. Take the return spring off of the pedal and extend the rod until the play is removed, but leave a small amount, the put the return spring back on. It's cramped under there but it's doable. It does look you should get more travel in your video, which might let you get by with the wrong parts for a while.

But, but, but...they have been touched by the guys working at Gas Monkey Garage! 🙄

Definitely not enough stroke. Likely to be either air in the line or a master cylinder that's leaking at the piston. Is it perhaps leaking fluid from the M/C into the interior? If you believe the M/C is okay, I'd start over with bleeding. In fact, I'd prolly replace the piston seals in the M/C (just for fun and certainty) and replace all the brake fluid. Start clean. Bench bleed the M/C, then reassemble and bleed the system.