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I see it has been a long time since I posted an update. I am still working on fasteners. I suspect that I am putting too much time into them, but I have no experience with getting hardware replated. So, I feel I can't leave it up to chance. I will probably send some "test" hardware along with it in various stages of prep or lack thereof. It will be interesting to see how the test hardware compares to my fully prepped hardware. I have a few observations to share, but not much of an update. First, the u bolt that holds the steering rack from twisting on the front crossmember - I happen to have two. There is a white blot of paint from the factory. I noted that under the white blot, the part was silver. So, this part seems to have received zinc plating (clear) from the factory. The clips that secure a rubber weather strip to the unibody under the top of the fender, here in their as removed condition. Amazing that they don't even have rust on their entire surface: The battery inspection panels have these metal clips. I find it interesting that they received a black coating originally that is not paint. This is actually consistent with other black plated parts I have found on the car. Black parts are, nearly without exception, springs or springy. The bushing in the bracket that bolts to the engine compartment firewall, which supports the back of the main throttle rod, is always rotten on any 240z. It is a two piece bushing, with a plastic inner barrel and a rubber outer grommet. The rubber part broke when I pried it out of the bracket. Here it is temporarily put back together: First pic has half of grommet removed. Middle pic is of the plastic barrel by itself. I will be trying to source a similar bushing from McMaster Carr. And lastly for today, I find it interesting that the hatch hinges were bolted into the car when it was painted at the factory. The odd part about that is that the rubber enclosure was in place also. My car had shims on the right side hinge only, and you can see by the original paint that they were in place when the car was painted. This, and the fact that the taper head bolts that hold the hatch to the hinges were not originally painted, tells me that the hinges and hatch were bolted to the car for fitment, and then the hatch was removed (the four taper head screws only were removed) for the original paint application at the factory. Also, hinge assemblies and shims were clear zinc, and backing plates were yellow chromate/cad. I think I am nearing the end of the great fastener round up and restoration of 2020/2021. I ordered some new ones a couple of days ago to fill in for the small number of originals that went missing at some point. I am digging through my boxes of old Datsun hardware to find suitable replacements also. I am having some success there, finding matching hardware with 4's and 7's and 9's on the heads of bolts - proper style and length. Yeah... I am more than a bit OCD I think.

A little information I have gathered about these Bosch relays over the last ten years. I see 120 (11 pole) and 121 (13 pole) mentioned, but have not seen the 127 (also a 13 pole) mentioned yet. I don't know what they changed when they went from the 121 to 127, but it wil not work in a 280Z without altering things. The 120 was used from the end of the seventies through to 81/82 by many manufacturers such as BMW M30 2.8L and 3.2L engines with the L-Jetronic efi (5, 6 and 7 series). It was also used in cars like the Porsche 912/914, Opel, Vauxhaul, Renault R18i 1.6L, Alfa Romeo GTV6 etc, some Fiats, Triumph TR7, Rover 3000i, and a couple of Volvo models, VW and Mercedes. I'm sure I missed some manufactures in there somewhere. Basically a lot of European cars used this system with this relay. Bosch made system "improvements" and changed to the 121 somewhere in 1981/82 depending on car manufacturer and somewhere in 1984 the changed to the 127. The 120 will work on all our 280Z models without any issues. People have been using them for years, including myself for the last 9 years. There are a lot of Bosch parts that will fit the 280Z efi and work perfectly. I use them in my 280Z because they are easier for me to find here in Europe.

Adjustment Disorder. https://www.webmd.com/mental-health/mental-health-adjustment-disorder We can help you work through this. Fortunately, I'm married to a psychologist so I no longer care what kind of oil filters are on my cars.

While looking for something unrelated I found this Nissan Technical Service Bulletin that describes when and why the markings were changed on the plug and coil leads. Edit, Aug 6. I just noticed that "New" and "Former" are indicated wrong in the TSB. Yellow should be former and white should be new. In checking the register on @Carl Beck's site Zhome the engine number listed for the start of this change would have been in 3/71. The publish date of this TSB is December 1971 so it looks like 1972 models would have the white labeled Yazaki leads.

I got the stainless line replacements from Classic Tube. Reasonably priced and ready to go.

He’s making them out to be super rare. I see a good amount of seats pop up on the web and they’re not $1,000. A lot of people have ditched the old seats because they don’t really hold you in position during hard turns. I personally like the classic seats but I wouldn’t pay $1000 for a pair when I bought mine 1975 seats (both) for $150. New covers and they’re like new now. Just no my opinion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As a very cool aside, I recently acquired a 3D printer. This is a tool that I absolutely needed so I could make parts that are NLA. Seemed like a good story. Anyway, I needed a new boot for the wiper linkage. Used the one I had, with bits missing, extrapolated where I needed to, and printed it using TPU (first use of TPU). I tried it on for size last night; TPU is flexible, but it's not as flexible as the OEM part. I thought for sure the new boot would blow apart as I stretched it over the end of the linkage. Well, it held and the fit is nice and tight. I haven't checked its fit over the motor yet. I expect that one day I'll unearth it for the purpose of reinstalling it. That'd be a good time to check the fit, I think.

Datsuns at Daytona back in the day!

Haven't read it all but print it with a 3d printer should be easy.. and light..

Some love for @sweatybettyfor starting this. It's the best way for me to understand/communicate with people now. "Heard it in a love song".

Let me just restate my sentence now. "Great news!!!! Bosch relay #0332514120 does in fact WORK! Received my unit today and tested it and confirms it does work. Operates exactly as the old one with fuel pump turning ON in start and shuts off if AFM does not trigger fuel power. Connectors fit perfectly without modifications needed! Relay is slightly bigger than my old one but it will become a cheap insurance piece now!"

Those look great! I'm looking for 15" wheels for my '71...mind mentioning what you have on there?

Power Brake Exchange. Great people.

Never mind. Probably wrong audience... Replacement...

And when you have done all of the above you can try this incantation, GET the F__K IN YOU MOTHER F__KING PIECE OF S__T!!! As you repeat those words violently shake the end of the transmission while pushing it forward toward the engine. This method has a surprisingly good success rate.