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Got it running!

It's butter smooth now. Thanks for a help yall 🙂 probably going to be some more stuff to sort out later.... like always.

All that stress gets me to drinking. Wait a minute, all that drinking gets me to stress. Just goofing. Your work looks great! I've always been amazed at what you can do. A true car guy and I watched "Ford vs Ferrari" the other day. You are Ken Miles in my opinion. He was a true no bull**** car guy. Matt Damon/ Carroll Shelby more of a salesman. If we had awards I would put you at #1.

That's almost happened a few times, you have to stay nimble, know where your hose is at all times and plan out your route like a dance routine and rehearse a few times, not kidding. While your doing that be aware of how far your nozzle is from the panel, how fast is your arm is moving, are you getting good coverage and make sure you're not over spraying what the compressor can put out and catch up. I'll take an electrical gremlin or a carb problem any day, at least with those you can walk away and think about the problem, not with painting, you're there until the last coat of clear has been shot. Much respect for guys who do it for a living and don't cut corners.

It's from a 2001 Chev Silverado, Indigo blue, PPG #4717, Dupont #B9323

Probably, PM me She's pretty familiar with Z cars

Thanks guys, appreciate it. Ken Miles? That's the beer talking Cliff John, you're too kind. The camera keeps over exposing and making the colour seem lighter than it really is, it looks more like this, serious blue.

Love the color! the results look really good and you did that really fast!

I'm not surprised it didn't come cleaner. The chemicals get less and less aggressive every year

That's a superb result, Chris. You have really modest facilities compared with a lot of guys who display their results on the internet, so this is really a great testimony to your skills, ingenuity, and persistence. A great illustration of why this site and its contributors are really exceptional in a world of contracted-out, done-by-others restorations.

The big milestone today, paint and clearcoat done! So nice to say that, God I find painting so stressful, just so easy to screw up and wreck all your work. 3 coats of colour and 3 coats of clear, lots of little dust particles but they should all come out when I start sanding the clear with 1200 grit. It's the same colour is was when I bought the car only now the rust, dents and orange peel are gone😉

Engine RPM is controlled by air flow. So high RPM means that you have uncontrolled air getting in somewhere. If it's idling at 3000 RPM and you already have extra gasoline then carb cleaner might not show you much. Engine running after ignition off is usually from hot spots in the combustion chamber. Often caused by carbon deposits from running rich. When you floor it before shutting down you let a blast of cool air and gasoline in and kill the hot spots. The throttle blades control air flow not gasoline. They need to shut completely if you want to control your idle speed.

U-joint #2 installed smoothly and seems to pivot very nicely in the differential end yoke. Next project is to install the 2 end yokes to the driveshaft tube yokes. I may have to build some type of jig to hold the tube while I press in the other caps with my small arbor press or find a very patient helper to securely hold on to the tube. I will keep you all updated and will try to have my wife post some pictures of the finished driveshaft. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.

To be honest I was going to purchase the clean front cut I have found and wait until I am up to replacing/repairing front frame rails, then I will remove the radiator support. My uncle and I will then reassess repairing or replacing or a combination. yes my theory is the same as yours, if the damage is pulled out the front nose/wheel well area the front will lift and bring everything closer to where it needs to be. I think once everything is blasted and the radiator support removed we will Be able to see what needs to be done. At the moment there’s a lot of guess work. I can see areas on the radiator support where the spot welds broke due to the crash it had. I can see where they’ve tacked it back together in places. It was not replaced as the accident damage is very evident. my goal will be to build my rotisserie and get it blasted. Then the fun will begin. Ryan

That's the real problem with painting in the same area where you do all the sanding, contamination is everywhere. If I had more room I would build a painting booth in the garage but as you can see I can't swing a cat in there. So before I start setting up for paint the gas powered leaf blower comes out and as much as possible gets blown out the door, then multiple stages of wiping down and cleaning and washing. The last stage involves washing the floor 4-5 times then fresh plastic sheeting goes up and just before actually starting to paint the floor gets thoroughly soaked with water and still with all that there is lots of dust particles on the clearcoat that need to be sanded out before buffing. However, almost all the of the dust particles are soft primer dust so they sand out pretty easily, give me a couple of weeks and I'll post some pics of the final product, hopefully it will be like glass by then.

Monty python "The Holy Grail"

Cliff, you have a great memory. That Memphis incident was due to me running out of time. I was working on installing the replacement fuel pump. I didn’t have time to finish so I capped off the fuel lines with a bolt. Over the course of a few days pressure built up in the tank due to normal expansion from temp changes and that allowed fuel to slip past the bold. It was a bad leak that time. Probably upwards of 1/2 gallon. My roommates were very unhappy, and it also put a nice stain on the owner’s Epoxy floor. You really have a good memory, they forgot but you haven’t! A pilot light in the garage would be a bad idea with a fuel leak like that one. I checked my repair last night before going to bed and the tank was dry and the JB weld rock solid. I think I’m in the clear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Meter meter pumpkin eater. Where's your meter? Start probing and poking. That's why most meters have long leads, so you can reach way over there to get a reading. Take a reading, clean a connection, repeat. Each small decrease in resistance will help.

LOL. What is your name? What is your quest? What is the force generated by a 1oz out of balance driveshaft?

G;ad to help. I wish I had some way to move forward without having to pull the gauge out, I do have one idea though... If you can disconnect the gauge from the harness and measure the resistance between the pins on the gauge that go to 1) the power input and 2) the output to the sender unit. I believe the two colors in question are yellow/red and the yellow wires. Not on the harness side, but on the gauge side with the gauge unplugged. That resistance should be an additive total of the internal regulator switch plus the resistance of heating coil #2. If you can tell me that number, I can measure the resistance of heating coil #2 on a different gauge here at my place. No guarantee they are identical, but they should be in the same ballpark. Then using that info, we can determine the resistance of your switch. It should be very low resistance, and my theory is that yours will not be very low. Just one more thing to look at for now that might be easier than pulling the gauge out?

A friend told me a one but I ended up going to another that was closer, lesson learned. I won't bother with that store anymore im going to put the engine aside for a bit since i plan on getting a 240z in a few days. Still hurts that they would say one thing and do another

They say they hot tank it, as far as it is clean outside but is weird to me that is not cleaned the paint

So was it just surface rust or did they bore the cylinders?

That looks really, really nice. Great color and shine. Way to go.

I was not able to notice any play in the u-joints. I attempted to follow the service manual and some videos i found online. I just got the driveshaft back from Southbay drivelines, the gentleman there said it was 1/3oz out on the rear, and 2/3oz out on the front. Shall put it back together later tonight. @Captain Obvious so whats kind of force is generated by a 1oz out of balance driveshaft?

I would drive as far as it took to get the car I wanted, but I like to drive. Not a huge fan of planes either but we have had people from the forum fly in to look at cars and then drive them home. I prefer to trailer an unkown to me car. Ask for a couple of days off. Maybe a Friday and Monday. That gives you 4 days. Where in Ohio? My daughter is in Columbus

Direction... If you replace it, you have to source the part - done Cut it off realign, weld, grind and limit distortion If you repair it, you have to pull, beat and reshape it back to where it should be but all the metal is there in the close to proper amounts. One concern is if the car took that big of a shot then the whole side of the engine bay could be off. Then you cut and patch it but the repaired section is still not in the right place. My car was put on a frame rack and needed some significant pulling to get back to where it needed to be