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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/15/2021 in all areas

  1. Good morning everyone, Zinta was finally painted over the weekend (mostly on Thursday) and... She is stunning ! Last wet sanding before entering the booth for cleaning and prep. Below picture is before the clear coat, I hesitated to ask them for the mat/frozen look with a specific clear coat, but I still wanted to have the same original DAT307 from when she left the factory in 1976, so I went with the regular shiny clear coat (pictures soon as there is a surprise coming with it). Air Dam before clear coat and bumpers with primer only (all the holes from the bumpers were welded and the brackets adjusted to reduce the gap, so they sit closer to the body): Hood, Trunk, inspection hatches and tail light/license bracket after clear coat: I finally receive my head bolt for the engine today (ordered 3 weeks back from Zcardepot, through eBay), so the engine rebuilt can start ! In the meantime, been working on the individual coils support and the ITBs air filter support, will only do an intake ports matching but no polishing. The 81 280ZX 5 speed gearbox also got cleaned and made ready for the final assembly !
  2. Compression rod, but T/C rod is the common name. It sees tension or compression when the wheel is pushed back or pulled forward (edit - actually vice-versa). The video does fit that part as a possibility since it happens when the wheel hits the curb. They're known to break also. The nut in the back could be loose. p.s. you can see it and reach down and grab it, from the engine bay. It's right there.
  3. Hi everyone, Richie G here recent owner but long time lover of Z cars. Child of the 70s and my first introduction to the Z car was a friend who had an original 240Z (not sure which year I was so young). When I turned 18 (1989) I bought my first Z a 84 300ZX that was rather rough but I loved it. Babied it for 10 years then needed to sell it as i moved to CA for work in 99. Here we are over 20 years later and the wife let me buy my dream car, that original 240. I just picked up a beauty, matching numbers fully rebuilt engine with interior restored. Has a few cosmetic things here and there but nothing major to deal with. It will be the little things I get to enjoy restoring myself 🙂 It just got dropped off yesterday from a long haul Connecticut purchase and I haven't even driven it yet 😞 Hoping to get out today if the weather lets up a bit. As I'm inspecting it I noticed a drop of oil (assuming )under her way back in the mid section (about where muffler connects to pipe) so it must have come from the pull into the garage. Haven't gotten under her yet to fully take a look though. I'm hoping it's nothing major. Which leads me to my question, anyone on here know of a decent Z mechanic in the Sacramento / Roseville area I can take it to? I want to have it once overed making sure everything is mechanically sound, tuned, etc before I really start enjoying it. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but I recently had back surgery and I just can't spend too much time down under or in her just yet. I really appreciate any help someone can give. Richie
  4. On bumps I usually find sway bar end links can be an issue. I’ve also found that when the giant nut that holds the strut inside the strut tube loosens itself it will make a similar sound. Usually this can be heard at higher speed over bumps.
  5. LOL, that was the dealer video that finally hooked me. Still waiting to make my own. Here's some more pics. Seriously everyone thanks so much for the compliments. This is truly a community feeling.
  6. WoodWorkerB has all the hose sizes he used on his 240z tank refresh. 240Z – Fuel Tank | WoodWorkerB
  7. Those projects are never getting done now...
  8. The summer/winter valve directs warm air from the exhaust manifold heat riser when selected for winter to prevent icing in the carburetor throats, blocks that off and directs cooler air from the front when selected for summer.
  9. Most carbs have accelerator pumps that squirt an extra bit of gas to enrich the mixture when one pushes on the gas pedal. Round top SUs don't have an accelerator pump as Charles stated. Try starting it without the choke and if it doesn't start right away gradually give it more choke until it fires.
  10. lower control arm inner bolt. See if it pops while making slow full lock turns. Make sure that inner bolt is tightened to spec. top strut nuts. both can make odd noises like this.
  11. Pumping SUs really doesn't help without the starter spinning. There is no accelerator pump in an SU like many classic cars had
  12. I would pull that tank and check it before I put fuel in it! 50/50 it holds fuel, maybe less
  13. Or the tension arms from the lower control arm. Proper name is currently escaping me...
  14. Looks like a nicely sorted car... The sound is not normal, and you may have to get it up on a lift and start moving things such as ball joints to find it. One thing you can check easily on the ground are the rack bushings. Open the hood and observe if the rack moves up and down when you turn the steering wheel a little in each direction. Might need a helper to observe the passenger side. Hopefully its something minor and easily corrected.
  15. It looks like it's just a run-of-the-mill relay. Three wires. Any common relay could be wired in. You can take the factory relays apart also. You might find that it can be cleaned up and function restored.
  16. Look under your car. Is there a drain plug? If so, remove it (be prepared to catch any gas that may be in there. If not, siphon as much as you can and pull the tank. Drain the tank, remove it, then look inside. An inspection mirror helps. Observe the condition, and take the appropriate action. You won't really know until you get it out and have a good look. You shouldn't be driving it at this point. The tank has a snakepit of hoses and I would bet big money that they all leak. Fix them while you got it apart. Which lines? Drain the tank, remove it, make whatever repairs are needed, reinstall and add gasoline. Get it cleaned inside and out, so you can be sure.
  17. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm
  18. Zcarsource.com looks like they have them but they want a lot of money for them. And they are used! Check to see if it can be taken apart. Could be a set of contacts that just need to be cleaned. Assuming it is failing and not something else.
  19. Welcome to the club Richie. She is a beautiful 240! We need more pics though. As far as I'm concerned you have landed on the best site there is! The people are friendly and very knowledgeable here. You will learn a lot. Probably the sole reason I still have my Z. Bob
  20. Hypothetically speaking, if @Yarb were to tell you that I couldn't figure out why my cruise control wouldn't work in my truck and it turned out that I hadn't turned on the cruise control? I would deny it. It never happened! That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
  21. Thanks! I'm dying to get my first spin, at home with the little one waiting for the wife to return. It's like waking up before your parents xmas morning and sitting by the presents lol.
  22. It is the 280Z air conditioning compressor relay.
  23. It's coming down here next week. Get that nitrogen down!
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