Richie G

@SteveJ you are the man!!! Thank you so much for the great article and all you do in general. I degreased the spring / lever mechanism and the switch contacts following instructions and its working like a charm! the LEDs really make a difference if anyone if debating getting them. Just remember to swap out relays for the zero load kind.

@SteveJ i finally got out to the garage today to do the test. Shorted the relay turned on right signal and had a solid dash and front blinker as expected but no rear. Tested voltage to those two pins and it only read partial battery voltage, about 3V. I was hoping to see no voltage or full voltage, not in between lol. Are these pins only for the rear light? What could make them have partial voltage like that?

Thanks for everything. Steve will report back in a few days once I can get out to the car again

Thanks. I'll try that in the morning. I need to take a rest because of this cold. Just to add some information, I did jump. The 2 wires removed from the flasher relay before I realized I needed to change out the old. Thermal relay to the new l e d compatible one. When I jumped them and put the stalk in the right position, I did get a solid front light, a solid dashlight, but nothing in the back. I didn't test voltage across the pens on the stock though so that's what I need to do next. In doing some further research, I saw some advice about the mechanical springs and levers on the stalk, maybe one of the levers that actuates the right rear is either bent or the spring has lost some of its step. If I don't have proper voltage across those pins, do you think it could be the mechanical part of the stalk, or do you think it's the wiring

Thanks Steve for the response but my brain is fried and your electrical knowledge is way beyond me. I've been battling a cold this past week and I can't seem to focus. Your article is extremely detailed and well written I just can't comprehend right now, might need to take a break and come at this again. I've been fiddling the last few hours trying to research and I don't know if this is right but it seems there is some sort of bridge at the hazard switch when in the off position that is supposed to pass the turn signal power through to the rear. I just can't seem to figure out which wire and where. My hazard switch was rebuilt not too long ago so I'm not sure its the hazard itself but you never know. Every other combination of lights work from brakes to hazards to hi/lo so something doesn't make sense here.

I replaced all exterior lights with LEDs as part of a refresh I'm doing on my 6/71 and came across this odd situation. Initially I had forgotten to replace the thermal relays but addressed that with two new electro-mechanical no load ones. If I turn on the hazards all 4 will flash perfectly, nice and bright, good speed, click clack and all. If I turn on the left signal both front and back driver flash perfect also. If I turn on the right signal only the front will flash no rear! So that's my stump, why will the rear passenger flash with the hazards but not the right turn signal? Could there be some wiring issue some where? When they were typical bulbs I don't recall ever having this issue. Oh and the bulb is fine when the actual lights are turned on too which is even stranger.

I've gotten it out for the first ride today and it was magnificent. No stress, no flex, no fuss. I will look into the clamps @L24ITS suggested as an alternative to the smaller clamps provided by RC just to form a better seal at the mating joint.

I noticed you used some angle iron straps to get to the support over the diff. Did you find the bolts that came with it were long enough to accommodate the hanger? I would like to use the hangers that came with this setup but swap out these clamps for the ones provided. Just not sure it will all line up. I probably wont get to this for a few months as I'm moving out of my house and storing the car for a bit.

If anyone needs them https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C9QFY6DZ/ref=sw_img_1?smid=&th=1

@L24ITS Looks great, do you have a link to what you bought for those clamps?

I actually got it done with just stands in the back but im not a big guy so wiggling here and there made it work.

And once again same experience with Max. We went back and forth about instruction and how helpful they would be. Don't get me wrong, he was extremely easy to work with and very customer oriented but what I got was old pics from a rusted out car lol:

For whatever reason, when I hung the muffler from the original factory mounts, I was actually about two inches short of meeting those pipes together properly. What I would call the female side that was notched, actually had exposed opening, where you could see the edge of the Midpipe, so I had to seat the muffler section deeper. And then use some additional rubber mounts to build up where the hangars were for the muffler. Now I have to be honest, I don't know if the previous owner rewielded those brackets for the muffler hanger in the wrong position or not. Maybe that's what started all my problems in the first place. I'm happy with how it's all set up right now. But once I get a full road test, I'll make any adjustments as necessary.

That's great. So it seems you did have the exact same experience as me. I had told max, about four inches of extra length would be best based on what I observed. I also took some measurements and gave him some advice around bolt selection up above the diff so that you could actually install the hangers without having to drop it. I found M10 1.25 16 mm short bolts that were the perfect size to get the brackets on without removing the cross member.

WOW! awesome job, looks amazing.

Thanks, I fully restored the interior and the engine bay but still need to do the undercarriage stuff. Its far from perfect but I'm really proud of all the work I did as a DIY kind of guy. I'm still learning so much about the car and this place and others like it is the reason why. Thanks to all that have helped me on the way. SN 486 that's amazing, I'd love to get something that low and do it proper now that I've been through this one. I'm pretty good at the assembly side of things but wouldn't have the skills to do a bare metal ground up restoration not yet anyways :-)

lol. Its funny you say that, as part of my brake work i've spilled a little and you're right it sure works well lol.

Not sure I ever posted the finished product. Completely spaced on that. I'm still working on finishing a few other things so haven't gotten to really fire it up yet. Carbs need rework and the brakes are all being redone before I can really test it out. I do have to say other than the fitment issue with the sections mating properly the rest was a snap for someone like me, the hangers and everything worked great. I may choose to get that section reworked at some point with some type of extension or cut and weld if need be but I'll cross that when i need to.

not really no. Basically they said you don't have to fully seat the pipes to make a good seal. I was like that sounds a little sketchy. Best of luck to you, let me know how it goes. Maybe my setup was weird due to PO mucking something up but I have a stock engine and it all seemed to line up pretty well so i didn't expect any surprises until i had one lol. Maybe I would have been ok with the tips where they were but it just felt like the age old exhaust into the cabin was something to deal with or an issue with exhaust up under the cowl all the time in traffic.

@L24ITS Wondering if you may run into the issue I had with mine. For me, once assembled I found that the mid pipe to tail pipe section could benefit from a longer tail pipe to allow for a deeper insertion of the mid pipes to the tail pipes to properly seat those together. My exhaust tip was barely out of the cowl so I had to compromise a little bit and slide the tail pipe section back towards the rear which then exposed a little bit of a leak which i had to seal with some exhaust tape around the section where they join together by the hangers.

I did not but they are not acting on the jet it's fully seated all the way to top even before I started leaning it out by raising the mixture screw. I'll try that though this weekend.

Thanks Yarb. I don't but that gives me a direction to pursue. I'm sure there's something around or someone I could ship to if there's nothing off the shelf.

I started putting all the brake lines back together and found a few leaks and was wondering if anyone knew of an option to use some type of flex braided hose in place of the hard lines for the small sections with the 90 degree turns? I'm talking about the two for the master cylinder to differential valve and especially the stupid S one in the back between splitter and proportioning valve. I've searched all over and the closest thing is a couple of trailer ones but they are all the wrong thread at 3/8 rather than m10. I guess a caliper hose could work but one end isn't the male inverted flare we need so some type of adapter?

Here's an update and maybe some help needed. I got myself a timing light with digital readout and advance setting. First thing I did was confirm where I was at idle with engine warmed up and it was way too advanced from what i can tell, maybe 30 degrees with mechanical advance removed and the vacuum port plugged. So i dialed it back down to get around 17 at 800 and it felt pretty smooth . I felt pretty good in that i could do this myself and a small win in that the dash tach matched the digital readout lol. So i proceeded to pull the 2 sparkplug and use the colortune method of checking mixture. As I suspected, the plug was black when i pulled it and this was only after running it about an hr earlier in the week in the garage after cleaning all the plugs. I inserted the colortune and it was yellow orange confirming the rich mixture. Heres where things got interesting. I started dialing the jet up to lean it out and the flame was losing its yellow flavor returning to a duller orange but it never got bunson blue from what i could tell even with the jet all the way seated at the top. And this happened to both 2 and 4 cylinders. the rear carb seemed to get closer in color but never quite there yet. Heres a video of #2 after fully seated jet 20260816_112443.mp4 and heres a video of #4 also fully seated 20260816_113113.mp4 The engine seems pretty stable and smooth and the exhaust now seems cleaner and throatier but i think there may be some more tweaking to do to get this just right. If someone can weigh in on these questions to help me with next steps that would be appreciated: Am i interpreting the color right? do these still look slightly rich? It seems odd to me that the jets are fully seated and the color is still slightly on the rich side assuming i am interpreting that correctly. I have SM needles in there BTW, could they be seated too high and need to be lowered to lean it out? Also there is no spillage from the float bowl and i believe levels should be correct based on seating the floats. Does the #2 cylinder video indicate a misfire? It doesnt seem as consistent as the #4. Coincidentally, if i do the piston pin lift test when i lift the front piston the idle will bump and lower to about where it was which i think is what we want. If i do the same to the rear carb the engine starts hesitating but never fully stalls. Does that confirm something up with the front carb matching the potential misfire in #2? I do have equal airflow at idle when checking with flow meter. Thanks for any advice on next steps, I'm really trying to learn how to do all of this and i think i have the basics and am making progress. You all are the reason why.

Actually I went with the full system from resurrected, headers to tips. It was extremely easy for someone like me, no need to weld anything custom, fit all the factory hangers, came with everything. I had purchased them during last black Friday sale at a deep discount. https://resurrectedclassics.com/collections/engine/products/stainless-steel-dual-exhaust-system-s30z-240z-260z-280z-datsun-1970-1978-polished