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For the past several years, I've chased a random fuel starvation issue. My 73 with round tops would randomly sputter and die. It might happen when barely warmed up, or when ran for a long time. It might happen after being driven for a while and then parked for a bit and then restarted. It would happen under load or not under load. Heck, it died while coasting down a long hill. Ambient temperature didn't matter. Would happen on a cold day after barely warming up. Just totally random. Always eventually restarted after several cranks and then might run fine, might randomly do it again. I tried replacing the filter, then the mechanical fuel pump (no electric). I dropped the tank and had it boiled/cleaned and I resealed it with POR15. Painted the outside and made it look pretty. All new soft fuel lines and then replaced the vapor tank lines(cause it stank a bit). Blowing through the lines indicated no blockage. I then started chasing vapor lock, even replacing the radiator (it was old anyway) and then went to electric fans. I tuned it to within an inch of it's life, tinkering with the carbs and checking the fuel level in the float bowls via those little sight glass things you can buy from ztherapy. Ugh! I learned a lot about tuning a Z. Finally, one day I pulled the float bowl lids and blew through the fuel line nipple on the top of them, while playing with the float. Raising, then lowering it. Trying to see when it engaged and disengaged the shutoff valve. Weellllll! Turns out the valve would randomly stick closed on the rear carb. I had another set of carbs, so I just swapped out the rear carb float bowl lid and whooooo hooooo, problem solved! Meanwhile, I have a Z with perfectly adjusted valves, a perfect fuel system, great cooling and perfectly adjusted carbs. Just Ugh. Thought I'd pass this along in case someone else is chasing a similar issue. Check and recheck and recheck your float valve functionality. Make sure that thing opens when the float drops. That is all.

1 The alternator needs to be in place with a tight belt so the water pump is working and if the alt. is dead then you would be just running off the battery so get yourself a new alternator and have one less thing to think about. 2 The pic on post #7 above shows you the fusible link that goes to the starter, check it for continuity, if it is blown then it's a no start. 3 Yes there should be but the red light but it isn't important at the moment, it could be burnt out and the car will still start. 4 There shouldn't be but anything is possible with car that has been modified. 5 The dash gets its power through the fuse box, have a look at the electrical diagram in the FSM Shawn, getting an old car running again is an exciting project and you are obviously committed but when you ask a question and someone answers it you need to report back on what happened when you followed the advice you were given. We need that information to know what's going so we know what to advise next, if you don't give us that feedback people here will get tired and stop helping you. It's a two way street.

Cool! Glad you found the root cause. So this sort of thing SHOULD have shown up on a bowl level check, but I'm guessing you never had the bowl sight glasses attached at the exact time the problem occurred? Also, do you know WHY the float valve was sticky? Is it something inside the valve itself, or is it friction between the float tang and the valve stem? That could be valuable info.

I'm certainly no expert on the collector value thing, so keep that in mind, but here's my thought on the matter. Here's my quick list of what I would look for when buying any Z, including a 240Z: 1) Has it been molested into a rice rocket JC Whitney abomination with fender flares, lowered, RB motor, fender mirrors, roll cage, fuel cell, go-faster stickers all over it 2) Rust 3) Rust 4) Rust 5) Does it have a sunroof, or is it an automatic 6) Rust 7) Rust 8) Is it a half finished torn apart molested project mishmash of different cars and years 9) Rust 10) Does it run and drive. At all 11) Rust 12) Does it have an interior. At all . . . 374) Does it have a 4-speed or a 5-speed. Like I said, I'm no expert, but that's my list.

Today 7 March 2021 a 240z came up for sale on the dutch marketplace.. ( marktplaats.nl) At first glance a nice car ... but can you see whats totally wrong with it? The flashers are original euro/dutch as are the bumpers. (Wheels are 260z but look very good on it!) On this pic.. it's obvious that the car was (like almost any other original 240z once was) a rustbucket due to the Dutch weather) CAN YOU SPOT IT? Euro km Counter.. Only the seats are 260z? Here a link.. ≥ Datsun 240Z Nederlandse auto - Oldtimers - Marktplaats.nl

We have discussed differences in the dashes through out the various years, but I’ve never seen a discussion about the differences BEHIND the dash pad. There are wiring differences, 73 dashes have the lit controls and pull hazard switch, but I’m talking stuff you REALLY don’t see. This week I’m swapping a cracked dash pad for a Hung Vu reproduction dash pad on a fairly early 1970 240Z, VIN 27xx ish. I was having trouble fitting the old dash frame into the new dash pad, and wondered if the issues are related to the expected minor differences in the fancy new dash pad or something unique about the frame itself, There were a couple of screw holes in the HCP area that were obviously not in the same place in the new pad (there are lovely metal bars built in where the frame to pad screws bite, predrilled too!) so I wondered what else might be “unique” Downstairs I go to get another dash, this one from a 72. Removing the steel frame from the dash pad and comparing it to the early frame there are several very obvious differences. Most are related to strengthening the frame. I’m just going to post a series of pictures that compare the two. BTW, the 72 frame fits the new pad much better. Not entirely sure why.

View Advert 1972 240Z Combo Switch Completely refurbished! The switch was totally disassembled and cleaned. The plastic elements on the stalk have been polished and the rubber boot is in excellent condition. All contacts on the switches have been cleaned and burnished, and treated with dielectric grease. All switch settings have been continuity tested. The wiring and connectors are in perfect condition. The connectors are the same as on the 1971 Series 2 cars so this switch might be suitable for those cars as well – no guarantees! $195 includes standard domestic shipping, international shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal. PM if interested, thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 03/13/2021 Price $195.00 Category Parts for Sale

Sort of. Filling any cooling system with water will be OK, so long as the weather isn’t at or below freezing, AND provided you don’t forget and leave it in. Engine coolant performs several jobs. First, it has glycol in it, lowering the freezing point. Second, coolant has a lubricant which helps lubricate the water pump seal. And having a radiator cap that is in good condition, and a functioning thermostat help keep the engine from overheating. So for starting an old engine just to see what you have should be OK with only water, but must be drained afterwards, after the engine has had time to cool off.

something inside the valve itself. I didn't run it around with the sight glasses on, cause they are plastic and I thought they might melt. That would have been disastrous. In the end, I took care of a lot of things that had never been done and needed it. The radiator had a tiny leak. The fuel tank was fine, though. Very clean inside. I really didn't need to Pour15 it, but I had it out. While it was out, I got to replace the vapor lines and fuel lines, all of which were probably original. I've got a full history (right down to fuel mileage booklets) on this car and those things were never done. The paperwork saved by the two previous owners is amazing. You can see the fuel mileage decline, then you find a receipt for a tuneup and the mileage goes back up. Someday I'll take apart the float valve and see what's causing it to stick shut.

That looks like what I did on mine. I wish I would have taken a photo of the wires. I used an inline fuse holder to jump the 2 wires together.

Too funny - hahahaha! I just don't want to rebuild my 4 speed transmission. Seems like a waste of time and money to me. I have decided to put a 240sx 5 speed transmission and 4.11 Quaife lsd diff in the car for now. I will keep the original 4 speed and differential stored out of the way on a shelf in the garage. 🙂

Heater control panel.

I would replace all the glass fuses under the radio too. There's one I popped that shut my whole car down. Bad alternator was back feeding power. It's cheap to do.

Don't worry about dash lights yet. They're not needed to get the engine running.

On mine the ground, black, goes on the top starter mount bolt. Red to the solenoid.

Dash from my 12/70 parts car (#16531) has the round center braces. Looks like most of the evolution happened in the first year.

Do you know what the material is or have a link to Hung Vu's page or web site? I know a bit about materials. Hope he chose one with no plasticizers, they tend to end up on the wind shield.

Here is a 73 on Kijiji, asking $32,500 CND so $26,000 USD, https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/city-of-toronto/1973-datsun-240z-rust-free-california-car-for-sale/1554715385

The bridge at Laguna Seca