Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Vorticity

  1. I finally ordered a MSA 3/2 coated header and 2.5 inch aluminized premium exhaust. I've read up and watched some videos on installation and think I can handle this job, but I've never done it before. Any tips/tricks are appreciated. One question I have is does the stock heat shield fit back in place without any modifications? Thanks everyone.
  2. something inside the valve itself. I didn't run it around with the sight glasses on, cause they are plastic and I thought they might melt. That would have been disastrous. In the end, I took care of a lot of things that had never been done and needed it. The radiator had a tiny leak. The fuel tank was fine, though. Very clean inside. I really didn't need to Pour15 it, but I had it out. While it was out, I got to replace the vapor lines and fuel lines, all of which were probably original. I've got a full history (right down to fuel mileage booklets) on this car and those things were ne
  3. For the past several years, I've chased a random fuel starvation issue. My 73 with round tops would randomly sputter and die. It might happen when barely warmed up, or when ran for a long time. It might happen after being driven for a while and then parked for a bit and then restarted. It would happen under load or not under load. Heck, it died while coasting down a long hill. Ambient temperature didn't matter. Would happen on a cold day after barely warming up. Just totally random. Always eventually restarted after several cranks and then might run fine, might randomly do it again. I
  4. 1.5" Primary Datsun Z Header. All Square Port. 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX | eBay pointed out by AK260 above
  5. try it now. I was swapping out the pic.
  6. Is it me, or should the pipes be fully welded to the flange? See attached pic from the add.
  7. Actually, there 6/1 says it has equal length tubes. Motorsport! MOTORSPORT TBC Coated 6-1 Header, 70-76 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX 300ZX ( Z31 Z32 ) 350Z 370Z Parts If you read some of my other posts over the years, the primary reason to switch to headers is that I have a 73, which has a unique downtube that I would have to have custom made if I want to keep the stock exhaust manifold. The stock manifold has all the ugly fittings for EGR, which PO left when he removed all the EGR stuff as part of the conversion to round tops. I could have the downp
  8. Thanks for the tip. About to start ordering. Think I'll just keep it simple and go with the MSA 6/1 coated header and one of their exhausts. I figure they've worked the kinks out and it should be an easy install. Hard part seems to be getting the old stuff off the car.
  9. Ahh, I see it now. I've bought a few things from them lately, but nothing too complicated like a header apparently is 😉 I can say their service is quick. Never had a problem that I had to send back. I was interested in this header because of the long collector pipe that is coated. I was hoping it would help with the heat coming up through the floor board under my seat. I drive mine on long trips from time to time and it gets so hot. Anything over a two hour trip and my tail starts to sweat, and I've got cold AC. I stuff towels under the seat and between the seat and transmission
  10. Their website no longer shows that picture. Can't believe anyone would produce a header with different shaped ports. You'd have to go out of your way to do that. So odd.
  11. Has anyone used their coated 3/2 header? I've asked them if the tubes are of equal length, and they said they don't know, which is odd. Anyone know anything about this header? Header Exhaust Ceramic Coated 240Z 260Z 280Z 70-76 | Z Car Depot Inc Thanks.
  12. That's a good idea. Still on the fence, but need to do something before driving season starts. Too cold and snowy here in the winter.
  13. I've been searching various sites online for something in the 205-215 width, but there's not much to choose from. I've got some Potenza's on there now that are about 10 years old and kinda hard and slippery. Any recommendations? Thanks!
  14. I was very disappointed in the speed bleeder approach. Just couldn't get all the air out. Had to resort to someone helping me do it the old fashioned way.
  15. I'm guessing that your brake booster is shot? Once brake fluid gets in there, it messes up the diaphragm. I just had to replace mine due to a leaky master cylinder. I had done the clutch master and slave years ago. I seem to remember needing to transfer over the original push rod on the clutch master to the new one, because the new master had a shorter rod. The shorter rod wasn't long enough even with the pedal connection spun all the way to the end. It just didn't have enough throw to completely disengage the clutch.
  16. I forgot to mention the ratcheting box end wrench. I've got a different model that I used, probably from Harbor Freight.
  17. I just did this recently. Use some plumbers putty to stick the washer and lock washer on so you don't have to hold them. You can then get the nut started with one hand.
  18. That's what I was thinking
  19. Ok, finally got the brakes bled. I ended up getting speed bleeders. Took it for a spin and had great brakes. Wonderful. It was a cool day, so I turned on the heat. It worked. SO excited, until got home and popped the hood to check things over and saw steam coming out. One of the heater hoses has sprung a leak on the engine side of the firewall. It sprays all over the battery. Looks like another project.
  20. BTW, what an odd wheel cylinder. Only one side moves.
  21. I managed to pry the "shoe" far enough off the piston to be able to fiddle with the piston and get it to retract. Thanks guys. Next issue is that I cannot get the brakes bled properly. Squishy peddle that gets firm when you pump it. I bled in what I think is the proper order. Bench bleed the new master, then bleed left rear, right rear, right front, left front. I'm tired. I'll tackle it another day.
  22. Do you think I need to take the pads off to do this? Seems like it. I don't have one of those retainer removal tools.
  23. I don't think there's anything. Here's a picture.
  24. So I did something stupid after replacing my brake booster and master cylinder. I forgot that I had removed one of the drums and got in the car and pumped the brakes. The absence of the drum allowed the piston in the wheel cylinder to overextend and it pushed the its rubber boot loose a bit, causing a squirt of fluid on the garage floor. I was able to push the boot back where it goes and reposition the clip to hold it, but the piston won't go back inside the cylinder far enough to let the pads retract enough to get the drum back on. I cracked the bleeder to release pressure, hoping this wo
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.