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Here's a modification I did to a socket to get at that main nut in the 4 and 5 spd transmissions, can't remember what the size of that nut.

That stove top stuffing is probably remnants of someone using one of those products that is supposed to stop leaks. I didn't have a pressure washer, so I made a little garden hose blaster instead. Of course, a real pressure washer would have been more powerful and presumably more effective, but it's what I had access to at the time. With "standard" household garden hose pressure, my contraption will shoot about thirty feet, so it's not bad. Cobbled together from stuff I had laying around. Looks like this: Here's the business end. I just crimped down the sides in a bench vice. Very scientific like: Soldered a piece on the end to adapt to a hose: And put on an in-line hose valve: It's small enough that (with the freeze plugs removed) I could reach up inside the block and around the piston jackets into the dark recesses.

I found this list online where all the 280's are the same except the A/T. Then you can see all the different ones for the ZX.

We have discussed differences in the dashes through out the various years, but I’ve never seen a discussion about the differences BEHIND the dash pad. There are wiring differences, 73 dashes have the lit controls and pull hazard switch, but I’m talking stuff you REALLY don’t see. This week I’m swapping a cracked dash pad for a Hung Vu reproduction dash pad on a fairly early 1970 240Z, VIN 27xx ish. I was having trouble fitting the old dash frame into the new dash pad, and wondered if the issues are related to the expected minor differences in the fancy new dash pad or something unique about the frame itself, There were a couple of screw holes in the HCP area that were obviously not in the same place in the new pad (there are lovely metal bars built in where the frame to pad screws bite, predrilled too!) so I wondered what else might be “unique” Downstairs I go to get another dash, this one from a 72. Removing the steel frame from the dash pad and comparing it to the early frame there are several very obvious differences. Most are related to strengthening the frame. I’m just going to post a series of pictures that compare the two. BTW, the 72 frame fits the new pad much better. Not entirely sure why.

Sounds like it is essentially identical to what you have in your 77 now, performance expectations wise. If it's been assembled well it seems like money wasted to take it apart again. You might check the wipe pattern and examine the quality of the rocker arm lash pads. See if they've been reground or the builder just put old ones back on. Cam lobe wiping seems to be the most common damage to newly rebuilt engines. Mark just replied but I'm going in anyway!! Submit Reply!

I don’t want to say much about the new dash pad itself yet, but it is made in a very different way to the original. It is one homogenous thick black rubberish blob with a textured outer appearance that seems to just be texture stamped into the blob (texture looks to be a great match to the OEM), rather than a plastic texture skin over a foam core structure like the OEM pad. Likely going to make longevity much better. No clue about long term UV susceptibility or need or use-fullness of using spray on protectants like “armor all” or the like. There are no instructions for care and handling guidance in the box. There are no pre-cut holes for the dimmer, speedo reset, cig lighter or hazard switch. Even the glove box area is mostly a large skin that has to be cut out to “Fit”. The gauge and vent openings are all open and sized properly, no trimming there. And unlike the stock pad, there are no wrap around flaps of the cover material that line areas like the glove box opening or HCP opening. Don’t think you need it, but it might affect the “look” of the glovebox area when it’s open on the left and right side. You will likely have to paint the steel exposed frame black to resemble OEM. Only read good things about this pad from FB users. Looks like I will use my 72 frame instead of buddies 70. Two reasons. One, the 72 frame just fits better, all the holes for the screws are in the right place (only the two at the bottom of the HCP area are different on the 70 dash, you could just drill two new holes in the frame). Second the frame is stronger and better braced. I noticed the raw dash pad is slightly curved compared to the frame, it will need to be flattened as I put the screws in to draw it into the frame, which is aided by the stronger 72 frame. Gotta remember to swap the VIN plates....

fs5c71a was in euro 240z til the end off 1971, so i own an us 240z from 2/1971 i will swap to this gearbox. I already bought an fs5c71a with the spacial driveshaft because we like it in germany to drive on the AUTOBAHN 😁,

Jeff jeff jeff. We are all hoarders here. A lot of us will need therapy after reading that post.

That starting time on the Z is perfect. One final thought on the matter. I once used an ebay purchased cheap-O in-line check valve and it didn't last. Worked great for a month or so, but then the internal seal started to curl and wouldn't seal anymore. Presumably from incompatibility with ethanol in the fuel? In any event, the point is... If you used a el-cheapo valve, it should get you through this current transport move situation, but don't assume it'll last for years. And good luck with all of the new venture!!

Another update as I get closer to moving day. I had a dumpster in the driveway for almost a week blocking the Z in the garage. Today, the dumpster got picked up and it was time to fire the Z up and move it outside to give it a quick wash after 10+ years of sitting in the garage with only a dust cover on it. After sitting for at least three full days, the car fired right up with only 1-2 seconds of cranking and no stall after the initial start. I think I'm in great shape now thanks to everybody's help! The Z parts I saved are almost all packed up and I'm 90% ready for the movers. I just need to finish my race car so I can put it on the market. It's getting close too. The movers come Monday and the cars leave Tuesday. For those between Michigan and Phoenix, keep an eye out for my Z, my 996 and my wife's FJ Cruiser heading west next week or the week after. They say it could take until the April 6th to get my cars. 😞 Once I get the AZ house under control, I will concentrate on making the Z presentable. It needs some block sanding, front and rear early bumper swaps, my Xenon front airdam installed and a BRE rear spoiler before it can get painted. I'm not sure when it will all get done, but hopefully in the next year or so.

That's what I'm thinking. Instead of the metal being up it was mounted downward. To me that's the only thing that maks sense. Great talking to you again, Ed

Just to be pedantic... None of them use Amphenol connectors. It's Amp, not Amphenol. I can't believe those two companies even existed at the same time. Both selling connectors.

That's what mine does. And looking at the valve, I think that's what is to be expected. Good luck with the weekend tests and let us know what you find.

'72 Datsun 240Z 77K mi - $7,500 (Medina, OH) A seldom seen 110 Red 240Z with Black interior. Looks to be a fairly solid car and the asking price is not unreasonable and probably negotiable. Here's the link: https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/d/medina-72-datsun-240z-77k-mi/7288699721.html Very nice '72 Datsun 240Z, 4 spd, one time repaint of Code 110 red car. Much more rare color than the orange they made. Some rust on lower fenders and door corners, in front of rear wheels, but overall very solid, very restorable car. Underneath is pretty good, just a couple small spots. Shock towers good. Just bringing it off mothballs. Been about 5 - 6 years since it ran. Needs tank dropped and cleaned. Got a starter to put on it and fresh plugs, wires, cap and rotor are installed. Always ran good. Should have it running shortly. Prior owner took grille and front bumper off for his other Z car. Have all 4 original hub caps that are selling for $500 on ebay right now! Clean OH title in my name with 77k actual miles on it. Absolutely was not going to sell this car but got myself in a situation so somebody gets my bucket list car. If you are serious and know what these cars go for, call me. If not, it's cool. 5Six1 /// 7Two 3 // o11Five I get home around 4:30 pm

The one on the bottom looks like a Datsun Comp NLA equal length header.

Pressure washer

Thats hauling!

On my MacBook I click on the picture once and it makes it bigger, then clicking on it again makes it full size, then i snip. No zoom on my resolution. I did not save to my computer either.

Ed, the only 3 drains I know are: Cowl to Fender Radio Antenna AC Perhaps the hose side was clamped to the cowl drain?

The lobes should look just like this. I stole this picture from a Google search that linked to a CZCC thread but the picture wasn't in it when I opened it. In case someone recognizes it. It's starting to sound like you're on the exhaust stroke.

I have used most of the variations from 1975 to 1978 on my 1976 car with no noticeable difference and no damage.

Yes there is a 1.25 diameter roller thing at the other end to help you form tubing as well if and when that comes in handy. That wheel is a screen door bottom guide roller. It has a 1/4” groove, bit bigger than the 3/16 tubing, but works just fine.

I have a drawer full of jigs and things I’ve made over the years to make things “better” but I made one today that I’ve been wanting to build for some time. When installing new stock T/C bushings, you have to compress the rubber quite a bit to get the end of the rod threads to stick out far enough to allow you start the nut. I had previously modified a special welding vice grip, but it was a struggle at best. It is now in the metal recycle bin. Here is what I built. Some 5/8 threaded rod, few nuts, some 1/4 plate steel, piece of 5/8 ID pipe (garage door spring tubing). M6 threaded rod to keep the two halves aligned. Added that after using it to do the first one. This is the vice grip tool I modified before. The jaws are always in a V shape, never parallel.

Yeah, I figured that the $10 check valve was a temporary fix, but at least it's super easy to replace and I can get a new one in a day from Amazon if it fails prior to me replacing the check valve in the pump. I almost bought the one that comes as a pair for $10, but it didn't have clamps, so I went with the single with clamps instead. On a side note, I feel bad that I have had to throw away so many good Z parts in the past few weeks. Today, I'm cutting perfectly good front fenders up with a death wheel so I can throw them away. I am also pitching a rust-free POR-15 lined late '74 fuel tank and an okay '78 fuel tank. I just can't take them with me. I've pitched bins of parts. 😞