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Historic spec showdown, note that the S30 is comparatively restricted to smaller brakes and narrower wheels.

For what it is worth, here is my take on the subject of bumpers on the S30. The chassis is 100% sheet steel, formed into a monocoque to support the suspension loads imparted while driving, while also carrying the engine, drivetrain, interior (seats, dash, wiring, spare, etc.) glass and the bodywork that doesn't contribute to the structural integrity of the car. The early bumpers were flimsy at best, only included in the design to satisfy the safety regulations of the era. The addition of the 5mph bumpers changed the chassis little, primarily with the addition of reinforcement where the shock absorbing cylinders were mounted to the ends of "frame". And then the bumper only needed to protect the car's occupants in a 5mph collision. Look at any of these cars that has been involved in a collision even at relatively low speeds, such as 25 to 30mph. They crumple up like an empty beer can. And the bumpers are often lost in the wadded up sheet metal. So to your question abut an inner bumper to support the aftermarket airdam/bumper. Absolutely, a close fitting tubular inner support would work great to reduce the damage done by inconsiderate jackwads who view cars as an appliance and lack any regard for awesome classic sports cars. There will still be damaged, albeit mostly cosmetic, a simple repair. Hit it harder and as Charles points out, the impact loads are likely to transfer a great deal of the energy into the framerail and inner structures that share the loads in that area (remember, monocoque). I've owned quite a few cars and pickups over the years that were worthy of my constant attention, washing, cleaning, polishing, maintaining, repairing, and constantly repaying my efforts with the ego boost when some other like minder person says, "Hey, nice ride!" Its a labor of love, but I try not to love anything that cannot love me back. But I have always been annoyed by the turds who lack the capacity to show respect to another person's vehicle and not cause damage to it. So I always carefully choose a parking space. Protect the passenger side with the planter at the end of an aisle. Park far enough out that there is less likelihood of someone parking within ten spaces (remember, the inconsiderate ones are also the lazy ones, so they always clamor for the front, nose in their stoopit phon checking FacePlant). If I don't have a passenger I crowd the right side of the stall. On the road, I drive both offensively and defensively. Watch traffic close an far away, easing up in intersections, glancing right and left in anticipation of one of the aforementioned dipsticks with their face in their stoopit phon, not focused on the task of driving. (cross my fingers and knock on the fake wood on my Z steering wheel) I haven't been in an accident that was my fault in over 40 years, and only two where the other driver was at fault (and had I been more focused on driving might have avoided). It is your car so the final say is yours, so do what your best judgement dictates. Then do your best to avoid the distracted dipsticks.

Good point. If I wanted crash bumpers, I should have kept the ugly crash bumpers.

My plans are to get it out of the driveway as soon as possible! Just mainly the glass left to come out. Do you want your commision sent to your usual off shore account or added to your Zcon beverage budget?

Glad to help. Oh, and BTW... There's a guy here on the forum @S30Driver currently parting out a 78. I don't know what his plans are for the car, but he would have the backing plates and parking brake arms you need. And full disclosure... He'll give me a 10% finders fee for parts he sells you. He doesn't know if yet, but he will.

Thanks for all y'alls replies. I am planning on ZCon, but there's no way I'm moving away from my 5 grands. If I was going to do that it would be to New Zealand. I hope to meet up with some of you in CSprings. I last went to a Z car show when MSA did there's out in Anaheim. I even met the esteemed Mike G. who is our fearless leader here. For now Mr. Brown is in his Winter hibernation under cover with a trickle charger. I should be bringing him back to life sometime in April. Anyway, sometime in the next few years I will have to make the decision about him, but for now I'll just motate along. I've thought about the power steering option, but it is just a bit too pricey for now, and it is one of those contortion jobs which are painful to old bodies. If I got a few more years I just might re-think that, however. Thanks again. This is a pretty good place to hang out with all you crazy Z guys. Cheers, Mike

You are the man, man. 3 car garage with a Z in front. I recently read that's a sickness like a @Diseazd.

If the Zcon beverage budget does not work out either I should have a set as well.

You beat me to it! Yeah, knock sensor. https://www.zcar.com/threads/what-is-the-hole-just-to-the-left-of-the-oil-filter-on-f54-block.337993/

I searched the turbo forums and found that a knock sensor goes there? I think that I read that the turbo blocks and N/A blocks are the same except for the turbos had an oil cooler and dish top pistons? I don't remember pulling anything out of there but the block was at a machine shop for hot tanking and honing. Maybe it's on his shop floor.

Oil pressure sender? See comments below.

Folks, what I'm going to write is not meant as a criticism of anyone but an observation backed by 50 + years of experience. Car spent a very long time at the body shop and is a 280. ALL 280s, approaching 50 years old or so now, suffer from a partially or completely plugged internal gas tank filter. The symptoms described fit the bill but let's prove it before we start throwing money at the problem and hope it goes away. If a customer brings a 280 to me with performance problems and the cause isn't obvious the next step - ALWAYS the next step - is to install my fuel pressure gauge between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. The first test is to see what the fuel pump, original pumps are still available from Nissan and God do I hate to see an aftermarket pump cobbled together with the reason given, "those Nissan pumps are too expensive", is capable of. With the engine running I pinch off the return line. The pressure gauge should immediately go to about 55 psi. If at the same time the car starts to run much better then you can count on the in tank filter being at least partially plugged. If after pinching the return line the pressure doesn't increase markedly then the pump is shot. Based on reading most of the posts it sounds like a classic partially plugged in tank filter. I've seen lots of 280s that came out of storage , same as sitting a long while at a body shop, with partially calcified in tank filters.

Good to know. I'll take it on the highway tonight and let you know what it says. I just changed the idle to 14.7 now, thx.

well, depends on your gearing of course, but typically 2500 to 3500 rpm. But you do need to measure it on the road - it's not valid if the engine has no load. (just checking!)

Given the fact that I'll be driving this car only infrequently, and will likely never park it or leave it unattended, I'll forego the bumper. Thanks.

Saturday and Racer isn't spending it at The Big Shed drillin' and fillin'.

Haha! Use the Zcon beverage budget please. I'm hoping to be able to make some withdrawals from that acct in the not too distant future!

So I just finished wiring the gauge and will be taking it in tomorrow morning to have the o2 sensor bung welded in then I'll drive back and give you guys some numbers. Stock l28 with EFI. I pretty much followed this guys video (even got the same gauge): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XS_f2ciKVqo&t=9s

I agree with you Racer X, that was a great era for the 911's. As far as the auction is concerned, when you consider all of the time and effort involved in the restoration of this very rare 1967 Soft Window Porsche Targa 911, I agree $24k is peanuts.

My son has a JDM S2000, loves it!

Very nice. I've always liked that era for 911's. I have been fortunate to take a couple out on the road course at Pacific Raceways. Once in a street driven 911 Carerra, and once in a similar Carerra that was race prepped and ultimately became a competitor of mine in the ICSCC Production class. Fast cars, handle perfectly, comfortable to drive. If I was rich I'd have these instead of Zs. So the itemized refurb cost was $402,622.24, and it sold for $427,000, for a net of $24,377.76. I guess that guy isn't getting rich building Porsches and selling them on BAT, eh?

Zedhead, Good "talking" to you again. Yes, your correct about the timing marks being moved from the pully to a bolt on marker bolted to the timing cover. I'm sure depending on "left over" parts supply the change was made in '72. Some '72's had the marks on the balancer because of the above. siteunseen, The balance marks on the back side were done by the factory on each balancer. Not on the engine, rod, flywheel assy. That is something SOME performance engine builders do. Wally, Do you still need a balancer? Ed

They're pretty exotic looking, I think they're selling at a premium, just saw one listed here for $134,000!!

1967 Porsche 911S Soft Window Targa 5-Speed Sells for $427,000! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1967-porsche-911s-soft-window-targa/

Here is a very useful graph: Measurement: Same Car Red O2 measurement at manifold Blue O2 measurement at exhaust pipe. Findings: Both read the same value for steady state. Dilution reduces resolution of transients at exhaust pipe.

Zedhead, I'm thinking a lot of that shine is from a ceramic coating. A lot more shine than stock but it is "modified" and it is a lot easier to keep clean.

How does everybody manage to take photos and/or videos while working on a project? I am always too busy and my hands are always dirty, so getting my phone out take pics mid-job never happens. I do try to stop and document a few times once I finish a task and clean my hands and always do at the end of the day or when the project is completed. I guess many of you have kids that you can lean on to be the photographers.

A lot of issues can come from modification and air leaks. 1st has there been any mods to the EFI or any other engine system? I dont recall a detail picture of the engine bay, it may help spot something out of the ordinary. as ZH mentioned your fuel pressure is too high for idle, that could be a FPR thing (defect or lack of vacuum), or a pluged return line, or a massive loss of vacuum, in which case the engine would run like poo. as far as the 0 pressure that is the way the system works, the fuel pump only runs when the engine is cranking or running. if you just turn the key to "on" but the engine is not running the pump will stay off. Its to prevent fuel from feeding a fire incase of a malfunction. A simple smoke of the intake system will find leaks. also a vacuum reading would be good, you should see around 15-18 inHg on a warmed up engine at idle. Vacuum leaks show up most when idling. Smoke out the system and look for leaks. Its very easy get a cheap cigar, plug up the front of the AFM, blow smoke into the intake manifold thru the brake boost port (attach a rubber hose and blow smoke there). watch out for smoke. I am assuming the idle adjustment screw works and the rest of the system is intact.

Keiichi Tsuchiya drives the Spirit Garage S30 race car around the Sugo Circuit for a Best Motoring special, and comes away impressed:

Above: Charles Barter, competing in the Historic Sports Car Club's '70'S RoadSports' class with his 240Z, where modifications are fairly minimal (stock carburettors, no LSD, stock brake calipers). He's a good driver. Below: Julian Barter (Charles' son) chases his father's 240Z in his Lotus Elan S4.

Why bother with the heatshield if you're just having the bodies open to the hot air above the exhaust?