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Is it bad? Have you tested it? The key to successful repairs is thorough diagnostic testing. Avoid the tendency to guess and throw parts at it. Sure, eventually the problem will be fixed, and you’ll have lots of new parts on the car, but you won’t have money left over for beer, or to take your girlfriend out for dinner.

you really should be only replacing if there is an issue. The FPR and the EGR maybe fine, you just need to test or check. the reason being you don't want to introduce more variables into the situation. Re the fuel pressure you can just check it no need for an inline but it that is what you want its ok and should be after the fuel filter as the FSM shows it that way. The power test will help find the issue (disable one cylinder at a time while the event is happening. disconnecting the injectors is the best way, find the problem and focus on it. you need to address fuel/spark/timing/compression and see which one or combo is the issue.

I’m totally putting it on Facebook Marketplace for $50. I’ve always been on edge about coins having three sides....

Certain elements of the 240Z electrical system were somewhat, ah, 'under-designed' by Nissan. The headlight circuit (all of it, including the switchgear and right on out to the headlamp sockets) is the leading culprit. The voltage regulator is a quaint anachronism -- easily replaced with a solid-state alternative if you want. There are numerous threads on these issues -- and their remedies -- here on the site. There are also relay-based upgrade mini-wiring harnesses for the headlight system that are conveniently available and at reasonable cost. For the most part, I see no reason to start replacing the connector shells, although replacing the terminals within them is (arguably) a better solution than the Dremel-cleaning strategy. To replace the terminals, you'll need the proper extractor tools and a good crimping tool (all available from Vintage Connections, who have been, in my experience, a quality vendor). We have a couple of leading electrical system experts here on the CZCC site and, if you're lucky, they may choose to add their 50 cents' worth here.

I think craigola actually brought the price down from where it could have gone.

Hi Guys, First of all, I'd like to wish everyone a Happy New Year and the very best health ! I am new here but can already appreciate the overall dynamic and supportive mindset of the neighborhood ! End of May 2020, insomnia hitting, I somehow ended up on BaT at 2am and got my hands on a beautiful 280 Z from April 1976 with its original matching number engine + 1981 280zx 5-speed gearbox (the original 4-speed also came in a box). The car is originally from Nebraska I believe, but transferred to Ohio in 2016. Obviously with COVID-19 and loads of excuses from the transporter (CFR Rinkens - DO NOT recommend), the car reached Dubai (UAE) mid September 2020. From the previous owner in Ohio: To Dubai, fresh out of the container, 4 months later. The plan from the beginning was very simple, as the car had already been through some body work and was repainted at least once in 1998 from its original Pacific blue (DAT 307), I wanted to give it backs it's factory glory and color, but with a personal restomod touch under the name Zinta Heritage (Zinta meaning: From early in life, you have asserted your individuality, learning through your own experiences, relying upon your ingenuity and practical creativity to accomplish your objectives with independence and determination). I decided to have it fully dismantled and sandblasted (we can see the dated Pacific Blue remains in the engine bay). This is when surprises knock on the door, a lot of body "repair" badly done, plenty of patches, poor quality welding and so on, especially on both front ends and the floor. Some rust holes showed up as well, but can we blame a 44 yo car from Northern states ? Nop... Then, following my original vision to make her "as new" the work started, removing patches, cutting, hammering, welding... As of now, the body work is 70% completed, the floor kit arrived from Zedd Findings (Big up to Charlie Osborne for his support) and will be replacing the old one. Some other area to be finalized in the next few weeks, cleaning the engine bay from the "useless" pieces, deleting the side markers (front/rear), deleting the unused rear bumper holes, closing the ugly speaker holes made in the toolkit hatch and some overall rear panels hammering for perfect alignment with doors (as they were probably replaced in 1998 as well). I also managed to get some parts in prevision of the rebuilding process: - Jenvey ITBs kit with 480cc injectors, MS3 Pro Evo ECU, DG508 ignition coils, OneSixIndustries CAS, complete engine seals/gaskets kit, timing chain kit, water pump, T3 front/rear strut brace, T3 weld-on coilovedr kit (car came with unmounted KYB Excel G), Prothane bushing kit, full weatherstrip kit. In the meantime I was also keeping myself busy restoring the dashboard and gauges (obviously cracked and hidden under a plastic cover). It will be eventually wrapped in dark black alcantara, but I didn't want to wrap a piece of garbage... Regarding the gauges, I got my hands on some LED rings and bulbs in order to get some decent lighting, and decided to redesign the speedometer (originally imperial and I need metric) and tachometer and have them screen printed), as well as giving a neon orange touch to the needles. The painting should be happening within 2 or 3 weeks, and then the reassembling process will start. Happy New Year to you all !

Yes, the goal is to know what pressure the injectors see.

Allow me to be controversial - in my personal experience, tyre rubber really does start to go off it’s best around the 5 year mark. But then most of our cars are garaged / live indoors without UV and at a relatively constant temp. So shouldn’t the tyres last longer? Well, I thought so, until I fell off the road in 2019!! My 14” Michelins with 6.8mm tread on the rears were normally pretty OK. Then I got caught out in a rain shower after a dry spell and coming onto a dual carriageway, onto a long sweeping corner, in second @ 2.5k rpm, when I touched the throttle at no more than 30% there was that real WHOA moment when the rear lost traction and was fought back into line with three pendulums - but not before I went off the road onto a gravel drainage / trap on the side of the road!! I then switched to Bridgestone Turanza T005 tyres and found I could put more than 80% of the power down in the wet!! Hit the same corner several times again in the wet and with more power to prove the point and no issues. I even went to Silverstone the following week and drove around the muddy / wet country roads for the 50th anniversary Retro Run and the track in the pee-ing rain; all with supreme confidence! I guess it depends on how, where and in what conditions you drive. But that experience made me staunch in the belief that they do indeed go off. I just don’t want to go off with them!! Not sure if they are still available on this size but I would highly recommend !

Your guy has serious skills, recreating by hand what came from a stamped press is no small feat. Also very impressed with the dash and console, I don't think I have ever seen the leather covered look done well on a 240z before, the workmanship on yours is remarkable. The fit for the speedo and tach is very tight on an original dash, hope he left some allowance for that.

I had to find the bigger offset fan for my Super Damper.....I found one with factory spacers.....gave me the clearance I needed. Curious if that came from a 280ZX with 3 row? Anyone seen these spacers?

Thanks Mark 🙏 but to be honest I would say, your project is your own authentic drawing with your personal touch, and mine is someone drawing it for me after years of art school, just following my vision... I have a bigger picture in mind and might start doing something myself in late 2021, obviously not from the skyscrapper balcony 😁 I have been very lucky with Ismael (the daredevil welder from Philippines), he has done an amazing work on the whole car body !

Woah is that a can of oatmeal?! 😂

And check for the simple stuff like rags or mouse nests in the air intake system.

Wow. Makes my car look like one of those drawings your kid brings home from preschool.... “ooh I love it hunny!” This is beautiful detailed work!

My folks met while working at FAR back in the 70s and I was practically born in the pits racing with them. My Dad, George, was a mechanic, manager, & driver and my Mom, Deb worked in accounting. They got married on a dare in Reno one night and were together every since. Unfortunately, both my folks have passed, my dad just recently. I've been going through their stuff and have found quite a bit of F.A.R paraphernalia. If anyone would like it, please let me know. I would rather it was with someone who appreciated it rather than sitting in storage. I have decals, patches, stamps, key chains, slides, and a TON of pictures. I've kept what means the most to me but there's plenty to share. No cost - just trying to find a home for some of it.

#00064 was dark green and they were asking $50K for it - it was in florida. That First Green Z - the pictures were for a car sold in Bring-A-Trailer...

In Germany they say a 10 year old tire is not done.. i drove in the Netherlands with good 15-20 year old tires, no problem.. Of course you have to take into account the conditions but that is using common sense.. My 280zx is at the moment on old tires with lots of thread.. has no cracks at all but these tires are a dissaster on wet roads, very slippery... I like a bit of a slide haha..

There's a very similar discussion going on in another thread. Kind of confusing though, about what parts are being discussed and where they came from. Those ZCD headers don't have matching ports. Four round, two square. You want the ports to match the exhaust ports on the heads.

That guy is kind of infamous, some real horror stories.

I would avoid that guy! Search Facebook and you'll find he has his own personal hate group...not everyone can say that. 😉