Leaderboard

I got the call today and I'm officially moving from the iceball that is Michigan to the surface of the sun they call Phoenix. I will be taking my 78 280Z and the 996 for sure and I'm 96% sure the 260Z race car will go, but my stash of parts that I've been collecting for 40 years will have to get pared down to the bare minimum. I simply don't have the money to move everything or the space to store it out there. It will be tough to part with stuff, but it's worth it. Thanks all for the emissions help and within a few months, I will be posting from my new home and looking to meet up with you guys that live in the Phoenix area.

Engine bay harness refresh completed tonight. We’ll get this routed and be one step closer to installing the drivetrain.

Unfortunately I have not had time to work on the car since New Years . My mum is unwell and I have had to spend a lot of time with her. Managed to put this together. Another massive thanks to @ConVerTT for creating and sharing this jig. I’ve never done metal work before this and if this inspires even one person to give it a go I’ve accomplished something! Ryan

Out of hibernation, step son slightly alarmed with all the 'whooshing'. Guess you cant please everybody!

This popped into the inbox, a nice commentary on JIS vs. Phillips head screws. It got me to thinking about JIS screwdrivers and bits and I ran across another article that makes it clear that all the so-called JIS drivers on the market today are not truly JIS but most are the later DIN/ISO standard that is a compromise between JIS and conventional Phillips head screws. The bottom line: if the tool does not explicitly state it is JIS B 4633 specification, it is probably a DIN 5260/ISO 8764-1 spec. Close but no cigar! https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/that-phillips-head-screw-isnt-what-you-think-it-is/?utm_source=SFMC&utm_medium=email&utm_content=21_February_6_Newsletter_Weekend https://rtstools.com/jis-vs-phillips-screwdrivers-and-where-to-buy-a-jis-screwdriver/

I had a hard time with my '72s reinstall. The PO had installed a cassette player and I wanted the OE back. Here's some threads that helped me. Good luck and it's not too hard there's just some things you won't know using common sense. https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&ei=afgeYPrEBMT25gLP_LjABA&q=240z+radio+removal+siteunseen+classiczcars.com+&oq=240z+radio+removal+siteunseen+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAMyBwghEAoQoAEyBwghEAoQoAEyBwghEAoQoAEyBwghEAoQoAEyBwghEAoQoAEyBQghEKsCOgQIABBHOgYIABAWEB46BQghEKABOggIIRAWEB0QHjoECB4QClD0CViHT2CzWmgAcAF4AIABlAOIAc0VkgEJMC45LjMuMS4xmAEAoAEByAEIwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

They look like American Racing Vectors.

Jeff, look forward to meeting you when you arrive in to the Valley of the Sun!

Oh. Well nevermind then. All the timing covers are the same. I've got all the hardware for the ZX timing plates, so we're all set. It's all in the box:

I installed Miata seats (in think maybe 1995) in my ‘75 Z. They have speakers in the headrests so I don’t have to hack any panels for speakers.

Looks like it sold for $15,300 on 1/31. Seems like a good buy for somebody. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-Datsun-Z-Series/193863325108

'L-bracket'. I like that. So much more elegant than, 'cheap-and-dirty fix-up with a piece of hardware store angle iron'.

So I learned something. The 280zx timing plate does not fit on the 280z front cover it’s too long. So yeah who knew there was a different front for later engines. I guess the moral of the story is if you have the smaller damper you need to use the small timing plate along with an earlier year front cover. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't recall ever seeing painted oil pans on other motors, also. It seems like a good idea (for rust control I assume) that Nissan coated the inside surfaces, until it begins to fail. Interestingly, I just disassembled my motor, which has been on an engine stand since 1997 (all openings stuffed with something, so not hermetically sealed), and there was no rust on anything at all. I hadn't turned the motor in over a year. Whenever I did, I removed the plugs and squirted oil into each cylinder, and removed the valve cover and poured oil over the cam. Then give a few turns by hand. Since putting it on the engine stand, I've probably done that maybe 12-15 times. When I took it apart, everything was still covered in a thin film of oil. So I am ambivalent about repainting the oil pan. It's just one of at least 1000 decision points as I try to move forward.

The 78 with the nice paint job sold for $18,000. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-82/

The quality of work you are doing is fantastic, it's a pleasure watch but the brake lines really stand out as not up to the same level as the rest of your work. Sheet metal ViseGrips wrapped in a few layers of masking or electrical tape will make a big difference in their appearance. I don't mean to criticize but just thought I would mention an easy fix.

the SU carb guys in Oregon should be able to hook you up with SU carb hardware. Like Zed pointed out, a bit of wood on the inside (hardwood, like oak, or even better, ironwood), and use a hard plastic mallet on the outside to tap down on either side of the downward deformation should straighten it up. You will likely need to sand and polish the stainless after, to clean up any marring or scratches. It won’t even be noticeable.

Take a round piece of hard wood (piece of your broomstick) and give the pipe some little hits with it, from the inside of the pipe.. you will get that super smal dent out.. Just carfully with small hits. 😉 (or scuff it with the wood from inside to outside.. take your time. )