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When it comes to expertise, I'm full of it...wait...that didn't sound right.

Kenny Ueda just posted that his mother, Johnnie Gable, just passed away. If you don't know the name, Johnnie was Mr. K's secretary when he was in the US. Johnnie was a fixture at many ZCONs. She was always ready with Z car stories and could keep you entertained for hours. She will be missed.

Dude! You’re holding out on us!

This is why I have ALWAYS LOVED this site, best, most helpful people and good usable help!! 😄 Of all the Z sites I've been on over the years this is still my fav!

To add to the heroes that died on 12/7, Mr Yeager was one of the many. Different years but still are memorialized were the ones in Pearl Harbor.

Lexus has had a number colors similar to that dark blue of the car on the lift

If at all helpful, mine is a VW colour, code:LD5Q Sits very well on the car but shows every small scratch / blemish. The up side is, it’s very easy to match! This is from when the PO first had it painted...

It can be done Members 67 284 posts Map Location: Smithville Ontario Report post ID: #2 Posted March 27, 2011 Ebay came through with a rust free quarter. New fenders from Nissan. Close to final blocking and sanding. First pictures are of donor quarter panel from Washington State. We in Ontario are amazed at the condition of parts when salt is not a factor:stupid: The quarter is lined up and tacked into place and should be welded in place by now:) Quote Options

See, I thought I had a problem because I have SO many Datsun parts... I am so relieved now!

No need for load resistors. The Z doesn't check for burned out lights.

I sent a message asking if they had clear title. They actually sent me a photo of the title, pasted below. I'm guessing that they really think that it is a 1972 240Z. I wonder if they even know about the places where the VIN should be on the car. Or maybe Wisconsin has one of those "lost title" programs where you just fill in your own information. Supposed to be an automatic. Who knows what's really going on here, the digger you deep the deeper you get. The title was issued in 1992. Just noticed it has a 240Z radiator with the little shield. Even though it has AC magnet valves and should have a full shroud. It also has the full EFI intake system all the way through the air filter box, but missing the last little plastic snorkel. Quite a puzzle. I sent one last request asking them to send me a picture of one of the two VIN plates. Let's see what happens. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Datsun-240Z/224263144994?hash=item3437200622:g:HPAAAOSw3ZFfyTd8

Is that old phrase, no news is good news, still worth a grain of salt in our current instant news life? Nothing on Rudy Giuliani today...no tweets, no nothing. We'll have to wait until Saturday's SNL opening.

8 minutes to go. The ladst two minutes are where stuff happens. Do you think calling yourself "Slimeydime" is a good idea? "Who'd you buy the car from?" "Somebody called Slimey Dime."

Hello, I am going to get my 240z projekt painted in the near future but I just cant distinguish and choose between the differnt shades of blue. I know that I want a dark blue and I also have some examples of cars that I think look good, it would be great if you could help me identify some of these colors. Greetings from germany Elias I think i like this first color the most:

This is my preferred style of crimper to use on the terminals for the connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1JQ1UE/

Thanks @SteveJ !!! I just ordered their premium Datsun kit for 99.99! 😎

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So close. Try to miss your dog when you vomit. Or, actually, he'd probably enjoy the meal. Dogs will eat anything.

This may help. Thumbnail clicks of Datsun colors. http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html Pics of actual cars... https://zcarguide.com/datsun-280z-stock-paint-interior-colors-us-canada/ I like that darker blue too! Mine have always been the blue/silver #305. Seems like that was a north American color. Very few dark blues are over here. I've seen one with white interior that was beautiful.

Thanks @SteveJ and thanks to @Patcon for tagging him to the topic. I assume SteveJ is a content expert and I appreciate that! Oh, and I ordered them!

I've done a lot of spot weld removals and adds for just nothing this visible! ha ha CaseyZ interesting on the cut further up above the dog leg to patch it. I'll take a good look at my options and tackle this soon and post my progress.

Z Car Jail for sure!! 🤣

That may still change, espadaguy has made a suggestion about resolving Reserve Not Met auctions that sounds very promising.

Ha Ha, I just put this room together, not a problem if you have the space for it. All a worthy cause. I could collect Magic the Gathering cards.....Not 💤

It's just disappointing that you have to join to see the list. I have family members who complain about Facebook's support of hate groups. They complain on Facebook.

I wonder if they would show you a picture of the VIN on the firewall. Not the dash, door, or fender well, those can all be changed easily. The firewall would have to be welded in.

Did you adjust the rear brakes to where the shoes just barely drag on the drums? Try pumping the parking brake handle and see if things get better. Does the brake light come on when it goes to the floor? That would show a pressure imbalance between front and back. Does the pedal get higher and harder if you pump it? That would be air in the system. If it doesn't pump up it's probably mechanical, something needs adjustment. Sometimes the new master cylinders are just bad. Things for your list...

When I first re-connected power after my car sat in my garage for 20 years, I pulled all the fuses and connected a trickle charger instead of an actual battery. It's limited to 3 amps, so seemed pretty safe. I then added one fuse at a time and tried each circuit. Surprisingly, the 3 amps was enough to do a high level check on a lot of the circuits. Once I'd done that, I pulled all the fuses again and connected the battery and repeated the process. Prior to doing all that, I'd spent quite a bit of time at the back of the car repairing wiring that had been chewed by mice, so I was pleased to find that everything worked.

Phil's a great guy, despite being an Aub. His registry is legit and well curated. I think he's in it for the info, not just the likes, if that makes any difference. Facebook is just a good way to cast a wide net. If anyone doesn't want to join FB but wants to join the registry, I'll be glad to pass the info on to him for inclusion. I believe there are many cars registered there owned by non-facebookers.

@siteunseen @Cooper260z the other thing that it could be is the pushrod that between the booster and the master cylinder that needs adjustment. But double check for air first.

I signed up for Beck's registry way back when for the same reasons. I didn't get no stink'n sur-tif-cate Carl!!! More power to the guy - pass the baton'.

They do have a wax spray but that's not it. You'll need a minimum of 4 cans to do the car properly, I wish I had bought 6, it is very thin and sprays out so fast that the can will be empty before you know it. It pays to do a few practice runs.

I threaded a nipple into the drain hole on the left side of the block and jammed a length of garden hose onto the nipple. The nipple was the one that threads into the back corner of the head, and the garden hose was from my buddy's hose when he wasn't looking. We did two blocks like this. First block we used ospho, and the second block we used evaporust. The ospho worked better, but the evaporust didn't stink like the ospho did. Note that the length of hose must be long enough so that you can keep it above the deck surface. Used a funnel to fill it, and then just unhook the hose and lower it into a bucket to drain. What you can't see is that I made a block off plate to cover the water holes that go into the front timing cover. But the rest of the process looked like this: Fill it up to the point where you get worried about it coming out the holes in the deck and let it sit: If I were to do it again, I would use ospho followed up by the evaporust. But I would do the ospho with better ventilation. As for the rinsing... I made a copper adapter spray nozzle for a hose that worked as a kinda pressure washer. It wasn't pressure washer high pressure, but I bet it shot twenty feet at typical house water pressure. I don't have any pics of that device, but if I can find it, I'll snap a couple. The biggest advantage was that it was small diameter and about a foot long. you could stick it into the holes in the block. wretch it around, and really blast stuff out.

Drill a hole in the bottom of it, shove a thick bar inside it and beat it out, it was the only way I could do it, you’ll need something to hold the perch of it, if I recall I would beat it, spray pb blaster in it, flip it upside down, wait an hour and come back and keep beating it. you’ll win. order a flapper disk thingy so you can sand down all the $^!# inside it, or your not gonna be able to insert the new strut.