Leaderboard
-
240260280
Free Member9Points4,441Posts -
siteunseen
Free Member5Points14,960Posts -
dutchzcarguy
Free Member5Points2,630Posts -
Captain Obvious
Free Member4Points9,919Posts
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/11/2020 in all areas
-
my cam looks terribly wiped!
4 pointsHi, I live in the Netherlands, (do speak German..) and i have a L26 in good condition with a restored E30 !! head! Makes nice horsepower.. It is still in parts as i did'nt need it so far.. but its all in good condition. and for sale. So if neccessary you got an option near you.. (I'm just on the border with Goch/Kleve DLD. near highway A77) Got a lot of other parts to.. z driver since 1991..4 points
-
1976 280Z Restoration Project
3 pointsWell, today was a milestone. I was able to get a solid baseline tune on the stroker. The new version 2.0 of the OneSix CAS solved my voltage issues and some adjustments of the IAC got the engine idling like a coffee can fill of rocks! But thatâs normal for a stroker with a monster cam I guess. The hard revving engine sounds like a fighter plane at hi revs. So very happy and thankful for all the hard work by Richard Boyk getting the tune smoothed out.3 points
-
Future of driving a "classic" car
3 points
-
Thank you Veterans!
2 pointsThanks for standing up and fighting for me and my family, our rights and our Democracy. Thank you for your service.2 points
-
COVID-19
2 points2 points
- COVID-19
2 points2 points- COVID-19
2 points2 points- COVID-19
2 points2 points- Z's on BAT and other places collection
This is correct. No 'X' on Japanese market S130 models: *FAIRLADY Z ( S130S ) - L20E engine *FAIRLADY Z-L ( S130 ) - L20E engine *FAIRLADY Z-T ( S130J ) - L20E engine *FAIRLADY Z 2 by 2 ( GS130S ) - L20E engine *FAIRLADY Z-L 2 by 2 ( GS130 ) - L20E engine *FAIRLADY Z-T 2 by 2 ( GS130J ) - L20E engine *FAIRLADY 280Z-L ( HS130 ) - L28E engine *FAIRLADY 280Z-T ( HS130J - BC ) - L28E engine *FAIRLADY 280Z-L 2 by 2 ( HGS130 ) - L28E engine *FAIRLADY 280Z-T 2 by 2 ( HGS130J - BC ) - L28E engine2 points- Bolting in Seats
1 pointI used a die from my tap and die set and carefully cleaned my threads. I can now break them loose and turn with fingers. Its hard to put seats in their position without scraping threads a little on my car and who knows who removed them in the past and didn't use care but mine were a pain to remove even with ratchet wrench. Now its not bad at all to remove seats now and we all know how much easier things are to work on without them in car.1 point- COVID-19
1 point1 point- Restoration of HLS30-12070
1 pointHuge improvement was made to the Z body. Before blasting the car, we removed the battery tray so that the area around it and underneath could be cleaned up and any rust removed. The battery tray itself was salvageable, but corrosion on the mounting flanges would make welding it back to the body very difficult. As a solution, we order one of the stamped trays from Klassic Fab JDM. Link to their website: Klassic Fab JDM Here's what the area under the battery tray looked like before blasting. You can seem some corrosion between the firewall and under tray area. A part from that this section of the Z was relatively clean all things considered. This tray was a very close copy of the original in size, shape, and appearance. I was very happy with the quality of the piece. The owners were kind and experienced with Z cars which is a bonus. Once the car was blasted, the area around the battery tray had not rusted through, but did show signs of pitting from corrosion. Mocking the new tray into the box showed that the areas which we would weld were thin and would again be difficult to work with without burning through. Fortunately, Klassic Fab also sells a replacement panel for the under battery tray area. This stamped also copied the factory sheet metal very well, even with the stamped locating pads to weld the wiring tabs to. While again not entirely necessary to replace both the tray and area underneath it on this car, we wanted to ensure that this rust-prone area of the Z would be good for another 50 years. The patch panel was trimmed down to the appropriate size, stich welded in, and body worked for a seamless transition from patch to original steel. I was very pleased with how well the panel matched the factory area. We only needed around 50% of the patch panel to remove all the corroded steel. If your Z is in need of a battery tray and/or the area underneath it, I would highly recommend Klassic Fab and the panels they offer. Next we'll burn in the tray for good and weld in the electrical wiring tabs.1 point- Jdm exhaust muffler
1 point- Fluid Question
1 point- 1976 280Z Restoration Project
1 pointVERY VERY nice garage!! I have total garage envy! That garage, if sold as a bungalow where I live would be worth $1.3m !!! I have to park my car to within 3 inches of the garage wall on the left to be able to get out of it on the right! ;) Also, very lovely car. Absolutely loving that colour too.1 point- Z's on BAT and other places collection
Haha! Agreed about it sounding like salesman. Best year for the EFI? What is about 78 that makes it so much more refined? My 77's feelings are hurt. And the dash... So he installed a new repro from the guys that are making them. HIS supplier. I mean, it's well written sales literature. It's just a little over the top for me.1 point- Z's on BAT and other places collection
I was serious, I thought it was about right. An old refurb'ed 1978 280Z, mid 30's price. Seems right. I still think that other guy should have taken the $111,000 for the 240Z. And, no offense, or sarcasm, I'm glad you don't work for me too. I sense trouble... đŚ1 point- Don't buy this from Z Car Depot
1 pointA rare parts department. That dealership should be reported to Nissan headquarters.1 point- 1978 280z Transmission noise in 1st & 2nd gear, metal shavings!
So thought I would update this post with the issue and fix for my problem (since I hate finding posts where the author doesn't include the fix). As all the members who posted before stated, the bearings were the issue. I will post some pictures of the transmission after I pulled it out, you can see the bearing in the casing is completely missing (shredded apart) most likely causing the shafts to not be balanced with 1st and 2nd gear. You can see the shaft isn't straight with the other one and bearing is completely missing New bearing in the housing while old bearing is right below it Here is the transmission put back together with all new bearings and synchro's with the rebuild kit that zcardepot provides. The shafts rotate smoothly now with the gears compared to when I removed the transmission. Needless to say, can't believe I drove the car for almost two years like this and even a day at autocross. I would baby 1st and 2nd gear trying to stay out of those gears during the years I drove the car so maybe that helped but however I am shocked I still have a transmission and no other damage was done. Thanks to everyone for the help. I can gladly pound through all gears now with confidence.1 point- Euro Spoiler:Interested in your thoughts
Thats a plus for the RUBBER euro spoilerlip.. it does not brake very lightly.1 point- Future of driving a "classic" car
1 point- Future of driving a "classic" car
The planet is burning, respiratory diseases such as asthma have been rising over the decades and known to be linked to city / car pollution and yet, THIS is our concern!? https://www.aaaai.org/conditions-and-treatments/library/asthma-library/air-pollution-asthma There is nothing European about it, frankly itâs a world concern that simply some nations have been quicker at responding to. If lockdown showed us anything, it was just how polluted our air has been that weâve gradually gotten accustomed to living with. Much like the leaded fuel case mentioned above. I heard these sorts of arguments from smokers in the 90âs when the ban came in on smoking in enclosed spaces such as restaurants etc. âHow dare the government tell me what to do and take away my freedom to pollute the air around me? Itâs my democratic right to damage my own health and those of others nearbyâ. While Iâm a total piston head and bemoan losing the joy of a growling ICE, I think in 20-30 years we will look back on this era of our existence and laugh at how dumb we were to drive highly polluting cars near our schools, leisure areas and in cities; walking about next to them breathing all those dangerous gasses as if it were perfectly OK. Not that electric cars are any greener from cradle to grave of course. But for inner cities and areas with dense populations / poor air quality, they are a step in the right direction. So now we have to change the song to: Get your motor humminâ, Sneak out on the highway! Looking for a charge point, And supercharge on our way. Just after WW II, the world population was a mere 2bn. We are currently over 7 and rising. The trouble with existing on such a scale is that whatever we do will have an impact on our surroundings and society at large. So we have to move forward intelligently. I donât like being forced to go electric soon, but in some ways the electric car will save the ICE car / classic cars - much like horses and steam engined vehicles were saved by the car and are now a thing of leisure and nostalgia. Simply put, we have to adapt. Oh and to make you laugh: my Q5 2.0TDi and A4 3.2 v6 petrol are way way cleaner and more fuel efficient than my Z - but the Z being a âHistoric class vehicleâ is low emissions zone exempt in the UK! Go figure ;) I guess we still like classic cars here.1 point- A drive in the country - courtesy of Team 24oz
"FASTEST OUTRIGHT NOT ONLY AGAINST ALL OTHER CLASSIC VEHICLES BUT ALSO AGAINST ALL OTHER MODERN VEHICLES AND EVERY COMPETITION VEHICLE!" Targa Tasmania 2017 - TS17 Montumana Stage - Camera 11 pointRemove Ads - COVID-19
Important Information
By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.