Leaderboard

There's effectively no copyright on the original Kobe Seiko design, and several different companies have made replicas over the last 50 years. You cannot label or market them as Kobe Seiko items, that's all. The problem here is effectively piracy of M-Speed's IP software, molds and R&D. We all know how many of these Chinese factories operate, and to buy product from them - which others have invested time, know-how and money to - is effectively encouraging piracy. If anybody wanted these wheels, they were freely available for the last two years from M-Speed Japan at a price which reflected the time and expense in setting such a project up. Buying via the back door is bad for all of us in the long run.

Never underestimate the greatest thing since sliced bread - the placebo effect. All that smoke MUST be beneficial. It works for me. ?

For plating, I try to keep everything as factory stock original as possible in regard to yellow and silver. I am sure on some items I may be incorrect, but it is my best attempt to get things right. I know the earlier Z's had a little more silver items than the later Z's, so not really sure at what times the changes took place. I did notice at the 2019 ZCON, most judges had no idea what was correct so I wasn't marked off for any plating discrepancies. However, Jim Fredericks was there and was able to teach me a bit on some items that were not correct, so I try and learn from those instances. For the half shafts, since most of the original black paint is usually gone, I typically just strip and clear coat. Sometimes the metal is stained so I paint with flat aluminum and clear or plain aluminum and matte clear. I know they are supposed to be black, but it gets kind of boring under there with everything being black. So, I do take a bit of artistic license on the half shaft, as well as the back of the differential which should also be black. For the trans case, I hit it with the fiber wheel and clear coat. Wire wheels usually scratch too much. Again, if the housing is pretty stained I will paint with flat aluminum then clear coat. Also, for the valve cover, I now just clean with steel wool and phosphoric acid (wear gloves and goggles). After the cleaning, I use a little Maguires aluminum polish just as a preservative. I prefer the light bead blast look, but got dinged for that at ZCON. Ideally, I should probably look into vapor blasting for the cover. Rich

We did some brainstorming, including heaving the early one remolded, but that would be way to expensive, they will only do it from at least a 1000 pieces. So I decided to modify the later one, back to the early one. I think it worked out. I will test it to make sure, just waiting for the strap to come in first. I cut the purple, and added to red, so the " slope " is the same, and the holes are on the same spot as the early one. With the purple cut out, you can now put the M12 nut under there. I could not just simply twist the mount 180 because that would change the angle.. so this was the only way. Welded the mount with the rubber part of it submerged in some water, so it wouldn't melt..

For what it’s worth, I bought one from Rockauto to go with my L28 transplant 3 years ago (even though the original was still OK). It had a Bosch sticker on it but having bought lots of Bosch kit for my other cars, i could tell that it clearly wasn’t re-manufactured by Bosch itself. It cost me less than half the price of the others being sold by the usual Z suppliers and hasn’t missed a beat yet. I have given it a lot of abuse too. If I had your dilemma, and didn’t want to spend silly money on one, I would opt for the AC Delco brand out of the ones listed on RA. On RA you often find alternate parts numbers listed, see below:

It's not just the college kids. It's the delay in symptoms, and the asymptomatic part that is the big problem. If people would just die as soon as they get it, life would be so much more sensible. That's what the scientists should be working on. An injection that amplifies the effects. Get the injection and you can go do what you want. Because you'll die as soon as you get COVID-19. You won't be able to spread it. All damage contained to you. They could call it the the Freedom Injection. https://www.yahoo.com/news/tens-thousands-motorcycle-enthusiasts-traveled-153930782.html

I took today off from work to recover from the ZCON trip, so I gave the 260Z a bath and used some C2 ceramic on it.

More progress. Got the drivetrain completely installed along with the E-brake and rear hatch. Also installed the manifolds and carbs along with radiator and fan.

New batteries aren't always fully charged. Try an overnight 2 amp charge. Can't hurt...

No voltage at the solenoid and no voltage at the coil would probably indicate the switch. That is the common point for both of those circuits with the problem existing with the key in START and ON. Also check your fusible links for corrosion. You should have two in your car. They are located on a black block that may have a white cover (or yellowed with age) near the battery. There will be either white wires or white with red stripe wires going up to the bottom of the block. AFM = Air Flow Meter switch - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1975,280z,2.8l+l6,1209204,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700

It was brought up and discussed here in a different thread I like what they are doing with the car, and I'm just tired of the people crabbing about what they don't like about it. The reveal party at ZCON was electric. I'm really glad I could see the reveal with a bunch of Z car enthusiasts. My car even got into the reveal video at 17:58 and 18:50.

In a fire bad enough to ignite Elektron Magnesium wheels (which the original Kobe Seiko wheels were made from) on an S30-series Z, the fumes from the burning interior plastics and vinyl would kill you first. M-Speed's replicas are made from Aluminium alloy.

I forgot to mention earlier that one of the most popular raffle items at ZCON was one of the new reproduction gas tanks from S30.world. I got to see the tank up close, and it looks really good to me.

Turn the headlights 90 degrees on the Audi and you have the 350z.

According to Randy, the ceramic coating is improved with each application. I don't know about filling surface imperfections. I'm pretty sure it won't show up as white where you missing buffing the way wax does.

It could have been worse.

I'm sorry i don't have the numbers here, my fiche reader is no longer here.. but you can find the numbers on the internet. So Bosch has sold it's name also to the chinese junkmakers?

@240260280, here are a couple of more photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/TSri4pb513RnJ1KNA https://photos.app.goo.gl/5Q73Rqkmo8Tp1Gj7A And there are some photos in this album, too: https://photos.app.goo.gl/xLN3ymszPDNSx87j6

Velocity stacks are made and should be shipping to me this week. ITB's are torqued and the nturally aspirated linkage is installed along with the TPS. The wheels fit (barely) with the 20mm spacers. You can hardly fit a business card between the back of the spoke and the caliper. These tires are too wide as well so will be able to get pretty low with the 195's. Got the diff and axles in as well. First day in a long time working on the car where everything just went as planned.

Yes sir!! I appreciate the advice. This is my first restores and limited experience. I have some assistance but the person isn’t very comfortable with all the specifics in 240zs. The simpler we keep it, the better. I will probably hold on to the turbo/5 spd for a later project. Thanks all for input. I’m pretty sure I will reach out for more. Once we get started, I will post some pics.

Even in stock configuration with no mods the Z's gas tank placement makes a Pinto seem like a Volvo. But you're right about the brake kits, a lot of variables going on there.

I got my video of the People's Choice Car Show uploaded. If you can, watch it in 4K.

Saw this on youtube today. There was a lot more people there than I expected.

I once put mine on a trailer with only starter torque. The only thing I worried about was every time the starter turned the engine over it would push the trailer forward and backward. I was afraid the ramps would come out of the hook... Stock starter is fine!

I'll put that down as both a 'cannot' and a 'will not'. Since you haven't answered my above questions, it's hard to come to any conclusions. If M-Speed Japan have green-lighted sales direct from the Chinese factory for some reason (there could be any number of reasons) then I don't see why you would not be able to say so. But M-Speed's representative told me that these sales are not authorised by M-Speed. So you're apparently selling an M-Speed developed product without the M-Speed stickers, yes? So who's standing behind them? Who's guaranteeing the product? If 'REAL Classic Z Wheels' (LOL) is your company, and these are 'your' product, where are the bona fides? I didn't have any problem with M-Speed Japan having wheels made and selling them to the general public, as they were good quality and a fair price for ex-Japan sales. I recommended the M-Speed reproductions to several people, and several friends of mine bought them and are happy with them. So, no problem at all with M-Speed product. So who's making yours, and where? The 'problem' I have Sean is that I don't think it is cool for people to track down manufacturing sub-contractors - via a product - and effectively short-circuit the process that brought the product to market in the first place. If M-Speed Japan paid for the R&D, patterns and testing and everything that goes with a project like this, then why should somebody else get a free ride on their IP? I asked you before what your reaction would be if somebody went to the Chinese factory where you make your Z Story exhausts, and started buying and selling the product that you developed. Your answer was pretty much 'its their own fault', wasn't it? So much for morals, let alone karma. If the situation between yourself and M-Speed Japan is a mutual agreement, then it should be easy for you to clarify to that effect. As of right now, that's not how I understand it.

He buys parts, marks up the price, and resells them. Might as well bypass him for a starter. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Starter-fits-Nissan-280Z-280ZX-78-83-Maxima-81-84-200SX-77-79-810-78-81/164392873832?fits=Model%3A280ZX&hash=item2646942f68:g:L4wAAOSwPZxfZ6oB:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!98115!US!-1

There's an easy way to check part numbers you're overlooking. Amazon.com, rockauto.com, oreillys.com, advanceauto.com, autozone.com all have the option to enter your car. Year, make, model. Once you take 1 minute to do that they will tell you if it fits or doesn't fit. Like adjusting the valves, the feeler gauge fits or it doesn't fit. You have to do some reading wich should only take a minute or two. Good luck with your starter. If you don't want to pay your mechanic and want to save money do the research and install it yourself. Personally I think the Datsun Z is the easiest starter I've ever installed. You install it coming down, most others you must lay under the car and hold them up. It's a real bitch.

Its most likely the N3130 'Close-Ratio Overdrive' or N3030 'Wide-Ratio Overdrive' version of the FS5C71B transmission, with flanged output. It required a flanged propshaft. Sold by Datsun Competition in the USA, but not a 'competition' part per-se as they were factory stock equipment in other, non-USA, markets.

In 2020 I will have been producing performance exhausts for 10 years ! Firstly, I would like to thank all my loyal customers over the years to make this happen and I’ve been rewarded in return by having many of you as friends. I’d also like to thank all those Z-professionals and track, rally and hill-climb competitors who continue, respectively, to sell and exploit my parts ! To celebrate this I’ve produced some exclusive super-goodies which I’m including as gifts* with each 2020 order and so as to be clear : Silencer, muffler order = free keyring (your choice) Manifold/header order = free T-shirt (quote size ‘L’ or ‘XL’) Complete kit = free 10yrs keyring and T-shirt (quote size ‘L’ or ‘XL’) These items may also be bought seperately with worldwide shipping** included in the prices below : Keyring 10 yrs : us$11 Keyring Z profile 50yrs : us$15 T-shirt 50yrs : us$23 (two sizes only ‘L’ and ‘XL’) *so long as stocks lasts ! **I will group ship so as to reduce the overall shipping cost. Obviously if bought as an extra and included in an exhaust order, there will be no shipping cost ; so less expensive ! Please contact me via mail (or PM) for any enquiries : seanz@wanadoo.fr So, Merry Christmas and I wish you all a happy and above all healthy New Year with new Z (and ZX) adventures !

I believe that Vespucci was a more serious explorer. Anyway, back to stainless steel exhausts.....plenty of space under your Zs as my line tucks up above the floor chassis rails and finally.....life is all about choice : choose yours wisely. And have a great weekend all ! :-)

People here are lost. They dont know how to repair starters and are no interested in helping.