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I've been refurbing some of these and used the metallic A/C tape with success. I removed and sanded the reflector smooth, applied the tape, then buffed it shiney with jeweler's rouge. I also cleaned and painted the interior of the housings. PM me if you have any questions on the details.

We all know the "pain" working on these old cars. Pain in the arse, pain in the hands. I said I'd get a manicure after building the last motor but guess what? I lied. A peticure would be more cost wise for me. Chris they say that THC is helpful for pain but I would'nt know. It's illegal down here.

I would try a long steep road to see if it starts to cut out. You can always turn around and get back down. I went ahead and replaced the original on the last 240 I bought, don't like having car trouble on the side of the road. If it runs low of fuel going uphill the front carb will dry up first and then you're driving a 3 cylinder.

Yeah. I think I would be driving it if they had gotten it done in the first year, or at least ready for the engine.

Mine leaks at the pin for the rocker arm. Just a very small leak, but it makes a hell of a mess over time if I don't wipe it up on a regular basis. To bad that pin is not serviceable.?

Covid purchase.

My approach was to remove all the stock tar mat, then small Dynamat pieces on large flat panels, and finished with mass-loaded vinyl with closed-cell foam backing. I picked that up about 7 or 8 years ago when I was active on DIY Mobile Audio and is what SDS was promoting as well. There might be a new hotness these days, but I've been very happy with it. I didn't do any decibel readings before/after (should have), but it's considerably quieter --and cooler!-- than it was. I'm not a fan of using Dynamat sheets on the whole panel; I don't think the cost and weight is worth it. Plus installing (and removing, if you need to) that stuff is a real PITA.

It's clear that we're still learning about this virus and its effects and after-effects. There are complicating factors such as blood clotting, lingering lung problems, appearance of infections in younger people...there's a list of new stuff emerging as weeks go by. But IMO it all boils down to what I said from the start: This virus isn't going anywhere. We'll be living with it from now on. We will develop measures to mitigate it, such as medications or vaccines. We haven't developed those mitigations YET. We will continue to learn more about it. So for the time being, the best thing to do is pretend it's March, minimize exposure in public, and wear a mask whenever you step out of the house and may encounter other people. I realize people are tired of this, but as the sage and philosopher The Outlaw Josey Wales said: "Dyin' ain't much of a way to make a living, boy." Cover up, minimize your exposure and keep chuggin'. It will improve eventually, but it hasn't yet.

I was a little surprised it went for $77k. If you look close, it appears as if the wheel arches are not straight. As if they are finished with bondo. The rocker seams are missing along with the rear valance seams. On the closeup shots, the paint job looked a little rough too. To top it off, the description says the seller hasn't driven the car since it has been restored. Does that mean it doesn't run or it has some electrical issues that haven't been worked out yet? It seems like a project at 60% complete.

When you get ready to do the rear tail lights you can buy repros from futofab.com, that's what I did on my second 240, or use @Dr. 240Z method as it worked out great on the first one. Money was tight! A lot of good ideas in his thread...

The ZR crossmember is in the US from Japan. Just need to get it coated and then the engine can go in the car. I have a complete extra set of OEM parts needed to swap an RB into a Z31 as well so will have those coated and sell the set on ebay for quite a bit since you just cannot find the parts. Took me a year to get them all! Finished the wiper motor restoration and very proud of this one! It came out better than OEM!

You know the old guy who can't stand the loud music... Well, those LEDs are just too damn bright! ?

Another simple way is metal HVAC duct tape. Not the cloth kind, look in the hardware store or Home Depot / Lowes. Tin Benders use it to seal up duct work. It's high temp sticky and has a very reflective surface. Just another alternative...

Frankly Charles, I was very surprised to see the car go for over $77k. I thought that it would probably go in the high 50's at the most. The final selling price confirms how a complete quality mechanical & cosmetic refurbishment on a California 1970 240Z can go for nowadays. As far as the '70 Sunshine Yellow 240Z is concerned, it is a very solid car and is very close to original condition. However, the body of the car has a lot of dings in its original paint. The eventual winner may just restore the car rather than trying to repair all of the dings and other imperfections in the paint as well as redo the interior. One thing's for sure, is that the car would make a great candidate for a complete restoration. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-51/

That does not look like it feels good. Sorry that happened to you, though the thread looks nice in your hand. Do the sewing yourself? Last time I pulled a stunt like that, my best buddy sewed me up. Saved me a lot of trouble and cash! Now I owe him.? Funny, your story reminds when I was in high school, I tried to use a similar wire wheel to clean up a metal vacuum line. Within 3 seconds of starting, it was ripped from hand and I never saw it again. Ahh, such good memories!

Hello @fyrst.z, like Zed said, the gland nuts definitely are specific to the struts, and you should use the Koni gland nuts. If you have one side of the front that threads and the other side that doesn't, that definitely could be, also as Zed said, decades of dirt and oil that create a "spacer" down there, so check that as well. The only other options would be non-matching strut cartridge heights, which will be fairly easy to check, or damaged/modified/mismatching strut housings. Struts, whether Tokico, KYB, Koni, are different heights, and they all have different gland nuts to go with them. You show an image of a strut installed with what looks like a KYB gland nut, we assume you are not using those gland nuts on the Koni's. When you're certain there isn't a buildup to scrape out of the bottom of the housing tubes (it isn't easy, unfortunately), and if then using the Koni gland nuts you are not able to torque them down to a 4mm gap, regardless of side, just give our sales technicians a call at (800)633-6331 or (714)639-2620, or email if you prefer at info@motorsportauto.com, and we'll get things figured out.

Was quoted $10k and six months. Paid $16k and took three years. Granted, there were some surprises, but mostly created on their side, like when they waffled the hood over-blasting it so I needed to find a replacement. It was just not a great experience for me. Maybe that’s because my expectations were off, but they didn’t manage my expectations at all.

I have done a few things since April but most of it is wrapped up in Saran wrap on the shelf. All the suspension is down now and it's down at the sand blasters, hardware is at the platters. These are the shortened front springs, how does one do that to a set of springs? This car has lived a hard life. @zKars you can add a brake pedal return spring to my wish list, The bench mounted wire wheel ripped this one out of my hand today but not before pulling my hand in with it, I really thought I broken my wrist but I got lucky, just some tenderized meat.