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This holds my phone perfect but honestly, buy a television. Edit: smart television!

Yep, That was me! Thanks for the compliment ZUP. I’m pretty sure I still have the patterns for those items. I can dig them out if anyone else needs 1 or all of them. I haven’t seen the repros from MSA so I don’t know close they are to the originals.

Probably not enough to notice. With the proper chokes and jetting it would be hard to tell the difference, I believe

This beauty had a had a complete cosmetic and mechanical refurbishment. Here's the link: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-55/

Hello @fyrst.z, like Zed said, the gland nuts definitely are specific to the struts, and you should use the Koni gland nuts. If you have one side of the front that threads and the other side that doesn't, that definitely could be, also as Zed said, decades of dirt and oil that create a "spacer" down there, so check that as well. The only other options would be non-matching strut cartridge heights, which will be fairly easy to check, or damaged/modified/mismatching strut housings. Struts, whether Tokico, KYB, Koni, are different heights, and they all have different gland nuts to go with them. You show an image of a strut installed with what looks like a KYB gland nut, we assume you are not using those gland nuts on the Koni's. When you're certain there isn't a buildup to scrape out of the bottom of the housing tubes (it isn't easy, unfortunately), and if then using the Koni gland nuts you are not able to torque them down to a 4mm gap, regardless of side, just give our sales technicians a call at (800)633-6331 or (714)639-2620, or email if you prefer at info@motorsportauto.com, and we'll get things figured out.

Hah, I'm not a smoky burnout kinda guy, but love watching other guys do it. Drained the oil today and everything looked pretty good, only a small amount of iron/steel paste on the magnet, then wiped it off, you can see it in the second pic. I think I will nurse it through the summer, I have a track day at Shannonville on Sept 5th. If I tear it don now I may not get it fixed and back together in time. If the OBX is the problem then I may go with the MFactory unit, it seems to get pretty good reviews. http://www.teammfactory.com/catalog/partno/MF-TRS-05R200

Yep. My 200 hp engine will happily humm along for a full endurance race. I pulled my current motor apart after 20 race hours due to a harmonic damper issue and everything looked like new inside. I replaced the parts that the failed damper took out and put it back together. ?

Books will get you in ball park but you need to test. I'm working on triple SK racing now on a 240z L24 and they work better with smaller idle and fuel than on a Weber 40DCOE. 45 vs 50 idle and 115 vs 120 main

Many Z's were fitted with 42DCOE's back in the day due to this book's recommendation: The carbs were purchased new rather than taken from cars.

Yep. Liquidate now before the world markets collapse and get rid of debt before interest rates go up AND prepare for inflation. Few will have extra $$ for toys when the change happens. For the current stability, my guess is that the Western stock markets are being artificially supported by Western Governments to prevent a market collapse and China coming in to buy out companies at low prices using cash from their artificially supported financial sector. It seems there is a cold war in the financial sector going on w/o most noticing. Last man standing.... Strange how it is not talked about though?

I believe you are correct..Ground the positive wire at the gas tank - the gauge should swing to FULL.. If it doesn’t its the gauge - if it does its the sending unit, or a broken wire. Your Agreed Value is WAY to low today. It should be closer to $40K. Even then it would take a long time to find a replacement at that price.

Yes, probably. I am probably low. I have been on n.v the last few examples like this As for the dents, I would get a good paintless dent repair guy to go over the whole car. If I thought the car would age ok as is, I might leave it original and patina'd

Haha.. yeah... might be a good idea.. But i'm a bit tired for now.. the 280 is on the carlift now in my own garage and i'll have to do the underside with teroson/waxoil and stuff.. and a good cleanup.. Still have a few plastic parts that shoud fit someware under the 2 front light buckets and in the wheelwells Haha.. no idea were they go.... i have to look in the manual! Another look at the stainless all around the car is also necessary.. polish some faint scratches out.. (i decided to do this ON the car because you can't polish them off the car... (ask people here on the site! ) About restoring a 240z.. i don't have to restore mine just give it a few nice rear fender wheelwells and a new paintjob.. Clean up the engineroom (by taking the engine out and give that a good service..) and paint that as well.. oh well.. ? take it all out and restore the car hahaha.... ? it has been 22 years ago that i started the restore! (Drive it now for over 20 years.. IN THE WINTER!!)

Also painted the block.

Yes, dissembled, flipped the helicals, installed the upgraded spring washers and bolts from rbryant and it has been running well for yrs. That is next on the list

Thank you for that! I also got help from member on the Facebook group, Church of the L series also mentioned that it was a Datsun specific plug. I’m going to copy what he said if someone else needs this info, thanks again! Riley LynchburgNissan: “These were not an existing industry standard type of connector that Nissan adopted. It was apparently a Datsun design, and was unique to the 74 Datsuns. In 75, they switched to a plastic Japanese standard connector called the Yazaki YPC. Those can still be found in 2 to 8 pin configs except for the funky one on the headlights. But the rubber ones are a no-go. I have been looking for them for many years with no success.”

I would sell while the markets still strong. Its likely to change soon. Liking old things is good but losing out on a good market wouldn't be worth it IMO

I wonder if "numbers matching" means anything? Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

Yeah, I got lucky with the carbs the car came with. $5,000 per carb seems to be the going rate, which is crazy. Sadly, I'm a sucker for rare and cool things so I'd like to get them working before I sell them for a profit. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

If you have triple 42DCOE you are a rich man.... they are desired by many with rare Italian cars.... check out selling them and getting a new set of Spanish 40 or 45's (or my fave: SK racing) then depositing a few extra thousand $$$ in the bank!!! NOS triple 42DCOE ($4500) https://www.ebay.ca/itm/WEBER-42-DCOE-8-TWIN-CARBURETORS-MASERATI-3500-GT-TRIPLE-SET-NOS-ITALIAN-RARE/293301829962?epid=1025136937&hash=item444a26c14a:g:cG0AAOSwPEddt29S SK Racing https://www.oer-carburetor.site/product/3

I really like this 240Z! I like how original the car is including its original paint and most everything else. In fact, I liked it enough to place a bid on the car earlier this afternoon. I will bid a little higher, but that may not be enough to win this '70 Series I car.

I have an n42 block and n42 cylinder head I beat the hell out of occasionally. The harder I run the cooler it seems to run. I do have a newer 3 row radiator, full shroud off a ZX and a belly pan so all the air pulls through the front opening. If I shut it down immediately it will get pretty hot but I always let it idle for a minute or 2.

Everything properly maintained, the Z engines don’t run too hot. This doesn’t include racing. 1/2 an hour of WOT will cook anything that isn’t properly modified and maintained. I think the F54 was designed for the turbo but used for everything. That’s just smart. Turbo engines just run hotter. Having owned Z cars most of my life, they are plenty entertaining without monstrous power. Jeff has 200hp and I’m sure he falls asleep with a smile after race weekends. I’m using a Rebello built 3.0 which I dynoed at 276 at the wheels. My kid who drives a 944 Turbo is afraid to drive it...

Yesterday I removed the black vinyl from my transmission tunnel and the bulkhead behind the seats. I also removed the insulating material from the firewall and the jute insulation from the transmission tunnel, with careful use of a scraper while gently lifting all the jute came off cleanly with out much damage. I'm very happy that all of the insulating materials and vinyl can be reused. Next I will be removing the tar mats from the floors to inspect for rust. Before removal I am following the lead of @inline6and creating templates of the tar mats so that I can make replacements to use at re-assembly. Here is a pic of the first one, If time permits I will be creating cad profiles of the tar mats that would be suitable to make printable templates. If I get to this I will upload them to cad file section in our downloads area.

No charge I imagine. He works on tips, like a mohel.

I hope you succeed, dmuzial! I’m ready to buy, yesterday!

I finally got around to painting my TL finisher panels and license plate light, here's how it turned out. I'm quite pleased with the results. Here is a pic comparing the new color to an unrestored original hubcap: And one comparing the same hubcap with my unrestored original grill and a license plate light body painted in the new color:

Just getting ready to re-paint the tail light finisher on my 7'70 that is currently satin black and I found a very close matching Dupli-Color paint that is not a metallic finish, It is a Ford color called Dark Shadow Gray. In Canada it is Dupli-Clor number CBFM0360. For a test I did a partial paint to the inside of a tail light finisher half from my 12/70 parts car that was the original grey. I also did a test on a old license plate light body. I used two coats of paint and two coats of the Dupli-Color matte clear. Here are the results comparing to one of my un-restored original hubcaps that are only brought out for shows. Here is a close up showing the new paint at the top and the original paint at the bottom, I'm quite happy with the results. The paint not being metallic makes the job much more forgiving. And here is the license plate light body with new paint compared to the un-restored hub cap:

I made it back home and looked at my spray cans, it's Graphite by Dupli-Color and then I went over that with Matte clear. They're both wheel paints. Sorry about the mix up, hope I haven't caused any problems.

I recently stripped my car to bare metal. What I found under the floor pans and in the wheel wells was that it had a coat of thin black undercoating but it looked more like black paint. On top of that was zinc oxide primer then light grey surfacer then the finish coat of 920 applied kind of thin but enough to hold up for 39 years. I asked this question a while back in a paint thread I started and I think I received a reply confirming what I had found and that it was typical. Hope that helps.