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The car is home! Its been... and experience? A saga? A trial? I’m not sure what to call it. The work is beautiful, except where it isn’t. There were a few things that needed to be fix after it was done, and then a few things that needed to be fix after that, and then some things that are being fixed now, and some things I’m going to just have to let go. After three years and many dollars, I’m really happy to have it back and be moving onto the next step. Here are a few more shots from before it came home: IMG_5843.MOV IMG_5844.MOV

I know the 1970 and 1971 240Z's came with a vinyl wrap around the bundle of wires at the right side of the console, perhaps the later models did as well. Recently I was requested to measure and photograph my OE wiring wrap so that a friend could have it reproduced. These photos and measurements may be of benefit to others to also get a wrap made. Note that the center of the wrap is wider than the top or bottom to accomodate the bulge of connectors in the middle of the wiring bundle. There are two darts cut into the fabric edge on each side to form the "curve".

I really like this 240Z! I like how original the car is including its original paint and most everything else. In fact, I liked it enough to place a bid on the car earlier this afternoon. I will bid a little higher, but that may not be enough to win this '70 Series I car.

The person who requested my info had the MSA unit, said it was smaller and did not fit well.

Everything properly maintained, the Z engines don’t run too hot. This doesn’t include racing. 1/2 an hour of WOT will cook anything that isn’t properly modified and maintained. I think the F54 was designed for the turbo but used for everything. That’s just smart. Turbo engines just run hotter. Having owned Z cars most of my life, they are plenty entertaining without monstrous power. Jeff has 200hp and I’m sure he falls asleep with a smile after race weekends. I’m using a Rebello built 3.0 which I dynoed at 276 at the wheels. My kid who drives a 944 Turbo is afraid to drive it...

I'll put one in the mail for this endeavor tomorrow Cap'tn.

View Advert S30 strut-brace bars My S30 super-lite, all-aluminum strut-brace bars, in stock and available to ship immediately. For 2x seaters and 2+2s Gunmetal / anthracite powder-coat painted (both sides) brackets with polished bars similar to the NLA USA Nismo alu bars Fits over stock and triple carbs, stock and after-market EFi and also Rebello (LD28 block which are taller) L35 strokers Fully adjustable in length to set them up tight Uses stainless-steel nut and bolt to secure bar to bracket - no more rusty bitz ! Included - new, stainless steel nuts and washers for the strut tops front and rear for a completely new and clean look Lightest on the market - not forgetting that 'light is right' : Front with brackets = 735g /1.62lbs Rear with brackets = 730g /1.61lbs Very competively priced in each market ! Prices (both bars) : US$279 + shipping $60 £212 + shipping £35 CAN$358 + shipping $78 AUS$381 + shipping $83 NZ$409 + shipping $89 €235 + shipping €30 Prices (front bar only) : US$154 + shipping $45 £117 + shipping £25 CAN$358 + shipping $59 AUS$212 + shipping $62 NZ$227 + shipping $67 €130 + shipping €20 Kits so far are : front and rear bars front bar only (rear bars only available upon request - please PM for tarifs) Later, new front and rear caps will be available for S30s and S130s along with a complete bar kit for the S130s. Payment accepted via Paypal Advertiser Sean Dezart Date 07/05/2020 Price $279.00 Category Parts for Sale

Thanks Steve. I have never posted to YouTube, but I guess it is time to learn. It looks like video works on the site when it opens with "Photos", but not with "Windows Media Player". Turn the volume up, you will jump when it starts!!!

Yesterday I removed the black vinyl from my transmission tunnel and the bulkhead behind the seats. I also removed the insulating material from the firewall and the jute insulation from the transmission tunnel, with careful use of a scraper while gently lifting all the jute came off cleanly with out much damage. I'm very happy that all of the insulating materials and vinyl can be reused. Next I will be removing the tar mats from the floors to inspect for rust. Before removal I am following the lead of @inline6and creating templates of the tar mats so that I can make replacements to use at re-assembly. Here is a pic of the first one, If time permits I will be creating cad profiles of the tar mats that would be suitable to make printable templates. If I get to this I will upload them to cad file section in our downloads area.

No charge I imagine. He works on tips, like a mohel.

45DCOE with 33 or 34 mm choke will be nice for street. 37 or 38mm for 45DCOE race configuration. 36mm if you want best choke for 45DCOE carb (not engine matched). This site will help you. http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html

@w3wilkes @madkawThanks for your feedback. It is just from wich perspective you look at it. We restore several 1969 production US cars and European cars, These cars come with tanks that have the connections like the tanks we produce. Also the cars produced for the Japanese market (including the Z432), the UK , Australia and the rest of the world came in this configuraton (without the vapor connections) A lot of people I know in the US said that this configuration would fit them also, because they delete the vapor system. For the US market cars we restore to a "as it left the factory"level, after the tanks are produced, we simply ad the connections and we have the tank the car came with when new. Till now most orders came from the US, but also Japan (for a Z432) and the rest of the world. I have a 1970 919 color 240Z I use as a daly driver, and this car I run with triple Mikuni's so I don't need the emission and vapor stuff at all on this car.

A stiff long board should take care of those soft areas.

Finally... Yesterday my Datsun 280zx slickroof 1979 2+2 got inspected for the Dutch APK (english-MOT or German-TUV.) It Passed! Here some of the last things i installed, after some... eh.. a lot!! of wax in the doors i installed the carts, they are 41 years old, can you believe it? (the pre owners were pretty good to the car.. they cared..) A clear feature of a early 280zx, (chrome is nicer in real then on picture.) extra attention to the original foam in the middle of the pic... the door is still dripping waxoil.. :-0 sticky plastic against sticky plastic so the mechanism can move! this spare wheel casing plate got some new foam.. The rear window installed, even the rear heating works! (The installation of the stainless was no pain in the butt, thanks to a rubber treadment that made everything slide inn! ? ) First you put in the stainless then the window into the hatch. Rear roof cover installed.. (still the original one.) Then there was the front glass.. When testfitting with a "college" he hitted the edge but we thought it did'nt hurt it.. A small crack became a big one... so.. this was the car's 4th windscreen.. i had to order a new one.. AAARRRGGGHHH !!! See the crack coming from the corner.. I forgive him... it can happen to anyone.. A Pic for future screen installers.. ? (sorry can't rotate the pic..) A clip, normally they are on a strip, 7 in top and 9 in the bottom of the screen. BTW.. the windscreen was for a fairlady 260zx... i've never seen one hahaha.. it does not exist! Still to install.. these.. where they go? not the faintest idea.. wheelwell? RTFM! And then i was at the shop with suddenly 2 cars.. nice set hey?? Finally at home (Half a mile hahaha) It rained a bit, cleaning has to be done, some of the waxoil sprayed over it accidently.. When i drove to the APK (MOT) i felt that my giant friend (NOT!) Danny the first painter (who did'nt paint!) had uninstalled the steeringwheel with a hammer? It says clearly on a sticker on the wheel: DO NOT HIT WITH A HAMMER! But hey.. he's a butthead.. clearly.. so i'm looking for a new bearing or steering column assembly.. again some extra costs because one thinks to have found someone who can do it for a few bucks.. (He was a son of a college of a friend.. told my friend if he knows someone for a job next time... say NOTHING!! Now this restore is coming to an end.. i can say that the costs were a bit more than thought at first but all and all it was within budget.. It took from buying till this day almost 7 years.. They went by fast.. Later on i will put some pic's here from a clean car in the sun...

The gland nut does not seat on the tube, it seats on the top of the shock/insert. So, when properly tightened there will be threads exposed on the gland nut. Having the top of the shock/insert/cartridge stick out of the strut tube might not matter. I think that the strut part number is stamped in to the bottom of the tube, or maybe on the casting that it is pressed in to. Probably covered in rust and crud. Not distinct.