Leaderboard

UPDATE: I spoke with the owner Dave and he told me that just minutes after he posted his listing on Craigslist that he had numerous phone calls for days that were not only located in all parts of the US, but also from Europe. He insisted that the six 240Zs be sold as a package and he had multiple parities bidding on the 240Zs. A gentleman from California was the winning bidder and he flew to Spokane to meet the seller, inspect the cars and see that all 6 cars were loaded on the carrier company's truck. The seller also mentioned that the new owner already owns a few 240Zs and is very passionate about 240Zs and plans to restore an keep all six of the cars. The seller also told me that the two 260Zs and the all 280Zs and 280ZXs were all still available.

Here's a nice chart on the different cams. Looks like the "M" has the lowest duration. Thanks @240260280 http://www.240260280.com/legacy/techtips/cam/index.htm

Job done. Took a while to get all the parts and to find the time to get everything done. First impressions are good. I may have to adjust the clutch pedal position as per the FSM, but overall everything is working well. In the end I did the following: Replaced the transmission (old one needs to be rebuilt) Replaced rear seal on trans. Replaced the differential from an r180 to r200 to keep the gearing correct for the trans I swapped in. Replaced side seals, front seal & gasket of diff. Replaced rear main seal. Replaced clutch & pressure plate. Resurfaced flywheel. Now it's time to enjoy the car for the summer and break in the clutch. Thanks to everyone who gave their helpful input!

Hello, my name is cooper, I’m 18 and this is my ‘74 260z I recently bought. I've wanted a 240Z for a few years now, but when I saw an ad on Craigslist for a 260z being parted out that was a complete A/C car that had been in a garage for 25 years, I thought that was just absurd and made a deal to buy the whole car. This is my first Z but not my first project car so I at least think I kind of know what I’m doing a bit. I have a basic idea if nothing els. The pictures show the current state of the car, just a bit different from how I picked it up. I’ve cleaned it a bit in an attempt to get the smell of rat pee out, I’ve removed the carpet and the Louvres but otherwise it looks the same as it did when I got it. The car is very solid, has minimal rust and is pretty straight. Since I’m not familiar with these cars yet I’d like the opinions of some people that are. Like if anything stands out as surprising, or cool or absolutely terrible, let me know I’d love to hear it! I have already started working on it, I’ve done the brakes and put in some new ignition parts in, It does run and drive now. Runs surprisingly well too. Doesn’t stop quite as well but I’m still working on that

If you still have the original oil pressure sendrr for yhe 77 it will have one wire. You can connect it to the 78 sender by swapping the wire terminal to the spade type. I made a simple diagram to explain it better.

To clarify, this is a screw for the fuel injector mount

As a counter point. I would not be afraid to lift the car the way they did as long as the pad is on the thicker part of the frame rail at the fire wall. Not under the floor or floor rails! Also the pads need to be nice and flat. The cross member is even better but not everyone has access to a four post lift

Finding historic Information on the Nissan Motor corporation Japan and USA is relatively easy, since there are archives full of information and a lot of books around it. Finding specific information on smaller countries history regarding the "Datsun" Brand is a bit trickier... So when i found an old Swiss information document for sale on a local website, i had to get it. From Todays point of view it's fairly funky with it's cut-off titles and different fonts used throughout the document. PS, full document for download at the end. It is an information brochure to the new customers advertising the efforts and advantages of the relatively young Datsun (suisse) SA. I guess it must have been from around 1071 up to 1973 or something like that, Proudly stating that they've sold 5000 Cars in the countrly total over the last few years. The first page is an introduction to the brand including a rendering of the (then beeing built) new car storage warehouse in Urdorf (Zürich area) and including a signature of the then-Director of Datsun (Suisse) SA, Ernst Pfister Page two introduces the Japanese mother-company including some nice pictures of the Factory, test-tracks etc. Including some informatino about their (then) current efforts to develop a new Rotary engine, Electric cars (!) and a Steam-powered engine. Quite a bit funny. On Page three there are pictures from the (mentioned above) Storage warehouse in Urdorf under construction and the Headquarter at the Stauffacherstrasse 45 in Zürich. As well as the old spare-parts warehouse in Switzerland: A quick Google streat view image shows that the building still exists and looks pretty similar with the windows and entrance-door position and shape. The next few pages show the car lineup and their advantages (mostly the solid quality): A dealer list, the motorsports-effort (Including Nissan R382, R280-II and East african Safari rallye cars) and press reviews follow on the next pages. And also the (quite a bit hilarious in todays context) superb 12 Month / 20'000km warranty ? On the back page you can see the slogan "DATSUN - Brings new values" I really like this document. It has a lot of character and some nice information and photographs rarely seen otherwise and something that is a bit more specific compared to the information you find usually. Oh and along the document above, there was also the swiss Datsun 1400 Dealer Windshield sales document that were put in the windscreen on the showroom floor for the Datsun 1400 aka Datsun 510 aka Nissan Bluebird. I have no useage for it, but will keep it of course and try to give it to a swiss 1400 owner who likes to have it ? Click here to download the full Datsun (suisse) SA Document as a high-res pdf: 1972 Datsun Suisse Information Leaflet

I'm running Inventor 2020. If I'm making anything at all, I'll create the models first. I have found my productivity is significantly greater as opposed to figuring it out as I go. Also, my material waste due to errors and rework time dropped to near zero. Mostly, its benefit, as I'm sure you know, is as a design checking tool. If there's something your working on and need to "see" it in 3D, I'm happy to help (I think! ?). PM me.

Next time it will not start, have a spare spark plug handy, plug the center lead of the coil to the spare plug, lay it on the strut tower so you can see it, and crank to see if there is a spark. You need to diagnose the issue to spark or fuel before going deeper.

They used to cost about $10 so for maybe $15 I'd buy a new metal filter that goes up front before the fuel rail, passenger's side fender. Hacksaw it in half and see what you find. I very much doubt any crud would get past that filter and make it to your injectors. The tank liner I used was Red-Kote and you would see red slivers in that rear clear filter. That looks more like trash to me? Anyhow it shouldn't leak if you have it right out of the tank, before the high pressure fuel pump. You wouldn't want that after the fuel pump's 35-ish psi output in my opinion. Others will chime in later about your ignition overheating. That's the 2nd issue you could have off the top of my head. Good luck.

I've had crud inside my fuel tank that would let them run intermittently like that, it's a real pisser. Put a clear filter coming out of the tank and see what you have. Good write up here, http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

The fuel injection relay is a complicated unit and has safety features which you should not bypass. Simply bridging the 36 & 39 terminals in the AFM is not a good idea. An easy way to fix it would be to use these wires to activate the pump thruogh the original efi relay. Basically if air flows thruogh the AFM these contacts close and allow the pump to run. Terminal 36 needs 12 volts to do this. I would use an oil pressure switch from a 78 280Z, 280ZX or 84 maxima. It has a sender unit plus a contact to ground. You could find one in a junk yard or buy a new one. Use that to activate a bosch relay coil 85 & 86 and run the AFM 36 & 39 terminals through the bosch relay 30 & 87 terminals.

Thanks Mastadd240k, they mention they had run into some 240k owners. Now lockdown was over managed to get it to the track to run in the engine. What better day than the Prowear 2020 GTR Festival. Did not taken any real photos, but Glenn from the Lab did a video of the event, some footage in that https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-xtPZUrC1U Back to Coastline Automotive for an oil change then back to the dyno for another check, then we can decide whether to spend some more time tuning. Dyno charts from Feb 20 showing new engine vs old engine. That old engine really ran well for its age. It did have slightly bigger capacity and extensive head work. Surprised the new one was not much different. The old engine lines on the chart is very hard to see. AFR Feb 20.pdf HP-Torque Feb 20.pdf

If you do decide to remove anything just keep somewhere safe and label it, at some point in the future the next owner will appreciate it.

Agreed, that's why we hang onto our quick, nimble, pretty uncomplicated Z's, who needs new?

@LeonV wow that’s a close vin! I would be interested in a bumper but the budget is tight right now. Too many cars and not enough money kind of thing. I’m sure I’ll need something eventually though, I’ll be sure to ask. thanks @grannyknot that’s what I like to hear. I love a good forum community @wadelester My dad does body and metal work so I understand what it takes to do that stuff, and I understand that I’d prefer not to. But I could do it, and I’m taking automotive painting at the community college I go to. So given enough time and money, it could get to looking pretty nice. And the underside of the car looks very nice.The floors are a bit pushed in, but no rust

Nice work! Your sketch looks like it has the hump in the middle of the hood... I like it!

"Dr Jon Voight" according to Heisenberg.

At the end of all of the discussion I don't think that anyone is going to pay more for a "Black Pearl". The car salesmen will use anything to promote a car. You might even find Jon Voight's pencil in the glove box.

Nissan not only built it - they charged extra for it, and they built a limited number of them. Each Authorized Dealer was supposed to get at least ONE. Black Pearl Edition - is really shorthand for Black Pearl Limited Edition. Did your Window Sticker list " Blue Metallic Paint" as an extra cost item Listed on the Window Sticker under the heading "Equipment and Accessories Installed by The Manufacturer"? Or like all the other colors that year, is it simply listed under "Color" at the left of the window sticker? Do you have a copy of the Dealer Sheet - introducing a special "Blue Metallic 280Z"? Did each Dealer receive only a very limited number of Blue Metallic 280Z's? As anyone can see from the Dealer Sheet you pictured - the Sports Appearance Package, was only available on the Black Pearl Metallic Paint - and it was an additional cost option over and above the Black Pearl Edition. It is not the SAP that makes the car a Black Pearl Edition - Paying for the extra cost Black Pearl Paint Job, and the limited number produced - made the Black Pearl 280Z a special Limited Edition, which was additionally eligible to be equipped with the SAP. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - if it has 638 paint code - it is a Black Pearl. The Racing Mirrors, Shade Kit and pin striping were part of the optional/additional Sports Appearance Package. FWIW, Carl B.