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Zed Head
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Mark Maras
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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/25/2020 in all areas
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COVID-19
3 points3 points
- Relationship solution
2 pointsIf you are one of the people who understand pictures better than words, this should finally bring clarity to an often mis-understood subject of electrical current flow. Another way to look at this, is that VOLTS Is your undeniable drive to buy car parts, OHM’s is your wife doing her best to slow the purchases, and YOU are the AMPS, trying your best to buy stuff anyway!2 points- Lock retaining clip lost in door?
2 pointsYou will find it right after you order the replacement. At least that's how things work for me.2 points- COVID-19
2 pointsLatest report from the WHO indicates that immunity from CO-19 after having had it is NOT assured. This isn't the news we want, but reports on this topic are still inconsistent. I think most people are assuming that if they've had CO-19 they will be immune to it afterward. This belief is clearly not justified at this time. I am making no assumptions about this...nor will I risk my health by assumptions. https://www.npr.org/sections/coronavirus-live-updates/2020/04/25/844939777/no-evidence-that-recovered-covid-19-patients-are-immune-who-says?utm_source=facebook.com&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=npr&utm_term=nprnews&fbclid=IwAR2W_YINMD4BHYFYSyGoZA7YDiS1cjft9gXGN3xL10fJQ197ig-2u_OUHzQ&fbclid=IwAR0EqEddpncI7FAZcevMitOuSd6wMtCS-hAyAGu6wAsnsVmbXgTuOllqE-Q&fbclid=IwAR3lVdmzofVG4j1qlpazNMSUym427-B6jOErF80wWLOIWDLk4i8PU-My3bE2 points- Sunvisor refresh
1 pointAfter looking at my original "saggy" sunvisors for a few years (and with lots of "sheltering at home" time) I decided to try a "fix". The vynil skins themselves are in great shape but it seemed as if the internal stuffing had deteriorated over 40 odd years and there were wrinkles here and there on the visors. I didn't want to change the original vynil for leather (visor repair kits on the market) so I decided to cut them open along the forwardmost seam with a fine scalpel blade, staying on one side of the seam so I could later close the seam almost invisibly. To my surprise the foam layer inside was pretty intact and the cause of the wrinkles on the outside was just loose, saggy vynil. I cut out a filler panel for each side out of closed cell foam, 2.5mm thick and carefully fitted and glued it to the existing foam with 3M spray glue. Closing the seam again was tricky but all I could come up with was using a strip of Gorilla tape (that stuff really sticks). I placed half the strip along the inside of the top half of the vynil and slowly pulled the bottom half over the exposed tape until a precise closure was achieved. The result is a nice firm visor with an almost invisible seam. See pics below. PS: I've only done the passenger side (which has the vanity mirror and is a little trickier) because I ran out of the foam. I will do the driver side once I get the foam and will post any details that I might change for improvement. Original "saggy" visors (I know, they're way better than most!!) New foam filler (white) fitted and glued to each side of the original green foam: Trim the foam edges so approximating the vinyl edges can be achieved with just a little stretch: Gorilla tape on the inside of the top half and then bringing the bottom half of the vynil over the bottom half of the tape until the edges are precisely closed (start in the middle): Final result:1 point- Am I sporting a vac leak?
1 pointThat is very kind of you sir but please don’t go out of your way to do it. And thanks for tagging George Gregory Regina the third! [emoji106][emoji12] Look what I found In the plumbing toolbox ... And they are the EXACT dimension too for the job! I bought these as a mixed pack in 2002 when I was fitting a bath!! Amazing how things come back to usefulness! ;)1 point- Sunvisor refresh
1 point- Delphi Mechanical Fuel Pump stops pumping fuel
I will try this as well. Though I don't think this is my issue. At least I will have my floats at the correct level. Thank you!1 point- Help Identifying a Radio
1 pointHere is the innards. And it works..... Got a video of it tuned into the worst scratchy old country AM station around here...1 point- saturday night music thread
1 point1 point- Relationship solution
1 point- Am I sporting a vac leak?
1 pointHaha!! Excellent! Then I've accomplished my mission! So you could try a bead of silicone once you're sure you've got everything else dialed in and hopefully won't have to be taking the domes off again every other day. More hidden than the foam. Just as long as there isn't some other second order effect from the foam thickness that makes a problem come back. In any event, it's just great to hear it's running so well and I'm happy for you! I think that turbo-esque whistle is the air blowing across the holes in the bottoms of the pistons. Like blowing across the opening at the top of a bottle, or a flute. I had never noticed it until the original air cleaner was replaced with smaller individual ones on each carb. I think the large mass of the original air cleaner housing and the fact that the stock input snout pointed forward towards the radiator muffled the whistle. And good work with the FBTT!1 point- Ignition/Door key question
1 pointHave you checked the glove box lock? In my limited experience, I've found that the glove boxes get the least amount of use and are usually the original key pattern for the vehicle. You may find that neither the ignition key or door key work in the glove box. That would be an indication that both the door and ignition locks have been replaced, and if that's the case, I bet the glove box and hatch share a common key (that you don't have). And not that it's a big deal, but locking the hatch doesn't make it impossible to press down. The button still presses in fine, but it misses the internal target linkage.1 point- Ignition/Door key question
1 pointGary i assume it is unlocked now. So does the key fit into the key hole? Will it turn? on my 71 vertical is locked, horizontal is un locked. If it won’t turn then the issue is with the lock mechanism and you need to re key it. I think? They can match it to your current key. locked unlocked1 point- COVID-19
1 point- COVID-19
1 point- COVID-19
1 pointI've started huffing Lysol instead of metallic gold spray paint. Mow the yard in direct sunshine and huff some Lysol. Life is good!1 point- Current Load Calculations - Much larger alternator needed
Also, another issue to deal with is output at idle. I can use a smaller alt drive pulley, but the rpm ratings for ones I've looked at are typically 6k. I plan to be able to run to 7k. So if I use a smaller alt drive pulley, then the real rpm max will be less than 6k. So you end up having to use a much larger alt (output) just to get the current you need from idle up to the rpm limit of the alt.1 point- WTB: Hitachi Radio
1 pointHi Gav--- Very nice work restoring your radio! I think you need a ba7s bulb--- Here's a link to the bulb and dimensional drawings so that you can confirm fitment clearances. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-and-subminiature-bulbs/ba7s-led-bulb-1-led-ba7s-retrofit-car/10/76/?gclid=CjwKCAjwnIr1BRAWEiwA6GpwNY4zgUw__K-ofFFCw1QEY9q7xIUt6ILpyRrSvUIGgdD1BgXCZCfctRoCyFkQAvD_BwE1 point- Relationship solution
1 pointAt first glance it looks like some sort of kinky S&M bondage thing. Not an expert.1 point- Lock retaining clip lost in door?
Sometime in the future it will show up as a rattle in the door.1 point- 1980 280zx ECU Swap Dilemma
1 point- saturday night music thread
1 point1 point- saturday night music thread
1 pointI know we all have way different taste in music but I've found music to be the best way for me to stay inside without getting bored. I'm listening to stuff I haven't heard in 20 years. Thank goodness I've saved my old hard drives. My old stereo isn't doing so well though, covered with dust and over heated. Oh well, I need to upgrade.1 point- 1980 280zx ECU Swap Dilemma
1 pointI think it shows that the computer number doesn't matter that much. Nissan probably switched over as inventory ran out. Your 1980 is probably an early build date 1980 so it got the last of the "1979" ECU's.1 point- 1980 280zx ECU Swap Dilemma
1 point420 shows as a 79 ECU. Many of the ECU changes seem to be more for emissions reasons, I think. It probably won't hurt to try it just to see if the ECU is your problem. The main inputs will be the same, there's really nothing to damage.1 point- 1980 280zx ECU Swap Dilemma
1 point1 point- 1980 280zx Fuel Pump won't shut off.
Don't guess. Test. Disconnect all of the injectors and the CSV and see if they still allow fuel through. Best to do that test with a pressure gauge, or by removing all of them and watching for leaks. Or disconnect the ECU and see if they leak. Why did you replace the injectors and CSV?1 point- 1980 280zx Fuel Pump won't shut off.
That's not a fuel pump problem it's an injector or cold start valve problem. One of those is stuck open. The pump should be able to run continuously without flooding the engine. Could be the ECU or it could be a short circuit on the injector wiring. How long have you had it?1 point- Am I sporting a vac leak?
1 point- Am I sporting a vac leak?
1 point1 point - Relationship solution
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