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Progress ... One more full day of welding should do it!

I thought that our CZCC members might like to contribute their thoughts here. Who knows? We might inspire someone out there to start making some of these items. My nomination would be: Differential Mount Insulator for the early-design cars with angled rear halfshafts (Nissan PN 55415 E4102) This part was used up until 71-06, so it was installed on about 30,000 Z's. If 5% of those cars are still in running or restorable condition, that would mean there's a ready market for perhaps 1,000 of these early-style diff mounts. To the best of my knowledge, there's no way that any of the later-style mounts can be modified to fit. Typical owner solutions seem to be either: replace all of the diff carrier pieces with conveniently-available, newer-design parts (expensive, and not correct for a proper restoration) ignore it and pretend that running with a worn-out original mount isn't a problem Given that the metal parts are usually quite salvageable, perhaps all that's required to restore the mount is for someone to reproduce the rubber core. With a new core, it would be a fairly simple matter to burn out the worn-out original, clean up the metal, and then glue a new core (should be fine, given that the bonding area is big and the joint wouldn't experience any shear loads -- just compression/tension). Early-style mount on the top Early-style mount on the left (apologies for not being able to provide photo credits)

Only the engine block can be matched to the chassis and that is only up to 1976 (maybe 1977), Nissan put the engine block serial number on the ID plate by the brake master cylinder. Either the N42 or N47 head will work exactly the same on the N42 engine block. But the exhaust manifold for an N47 head does not work well with an N42 head. So that's really what you need to match, the exhaust manifold. If you have an N42 head with a square port exhaust manifold it will bolt right on to the block and work fine. Your mechanic should know this. p.s. 1977 was the year that Nissan changed from the N42 head to the N47 head. So you could have either. Your mechanic might be looking at some sort of database and using 1977 as a guide. But the N42 head is found on 77's also. Just rebuild that N42 head and use it.

I can take some move measurements on my series 1. Need to wait for a rainy day - she's napping ....

There are blocks with E30, E31, P30, N42, F54 casting numbers There are heads with E30, E31, E88 (early and Late) N42, N47, P90, P90A. I think the N47 was on a Maxima ICBW Some of those matched head to block but those are just casting numbers. The serial number under the back cylinder matches the inner fender well plate for the 240, 260. For the 280 Nissan dropped the engine number on the plate but it is still on the block. As far as I know there were no matching transmission numbers. There are certain ones that were in a date range of cars. The A and the B style (two different ones), and a C in the turbo. I hope that helps some, I am no numbers expert so others may chime in with more data.

Another day, another new cool thing to learn about Z’s. I would have sworn up and down that was a user added part for an alarm or interior trunk light “upgrade”.

My '77 has something very similar and it is the alarm switch for the hatch. There's one under the hood and both doors.

Replaced that diff mount on my 1970 in 1998 and still have the old part. I have contacts in eastern Europe that produces rubber and rubber backed steel parts. When I get time, I will try to make a drawing off my old parts and look into making these. I paid $37.44 in 1998, it will be hard to meet that price.

The rods and springs are meant to easily and quickly pull out and re-seat. You can forget the springs. Saves you having to use wrenches.

it seemed to be a bit more coarse than a machine screw would be. I stand corrected, based on https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/machine-screws/machine-screw-diameter.aspx I was using a #8 screw. overall height is 0.6" diameter is 0.165" length is ~0.5"

I think you are correct on your first line up, but I have a lot of trouble calling that an orange tone....jeez, it seems like it was just a different lot # on the yellow run.

10 initial + 18 vacuum + 20 centripetal = 48. 34 is just initial + centripetal. High PRM cruise could get both vacuum and centripetal max'ed out maybe. What's also interesting is that the PCM/ECM/computer "learns" and holds on to variable to optimize certain things. The O2 sensor feedback probably comes in to play along with EGR. Anyway, finding 50 degrees on a Hyundai is one of those things you probably would never know without the scanner. My point. Once you see it then you can try to figure out why the automotive engineers made it happen.

I gotta dumb question, why turn rotors? they seem pretty affordable to just get new ones.....

Most of those parts are still good. Rust "grows" so it looks worse than it is. The rotors can be turned, the hubs are still good on the inside where it matters, the struts can have shocks inserted, etc. The insulators at the tops of the strut are hard to find. The half shafts and u-joints are probably still good. The steering rack rubber looks intact. Lots of good parts there.

Seems to fit, a bit...

Just getting back into the disassembly of my car after delay due to a few life obstacles. Back in late November I removed the exhaust from the resonator back. Last week removed the seats and seatbelts. I will hopefully be posting more regularly, as I'm wanting to get the shell to the body shop sooner than later. Cheers, Mike

Mine as well. But Trump is hastening the process with his actions and tweets. I personally have no use for Twitter. It's a place where people display their worst impulses and most poorly formulated thoughts. It fits that a man with the attention span of a fruit fly uses it all the time.

Better design. Everyone wants a longer rod:

This was just stupid people. Old timey veterinarian's office in Alabama. Who'd of thunk I was actually the stupidest in there. I should have done it over the phone and had them bring it out. Lesson learned. Thanks for letting me vent here Zed Head.

Here are some reference photos from unmolested Z's

Hi , I am still feeling the driver’s seat looked different from the passenger’s seat . This picture makes me wonder if our seats would have changed its shape in 1970 , the BAT green car seems to have the seat just like this black seat in the driver’s seat maybe produced in later 1970 . The seat back has different shape than the earlier one especially around the shoulder area . Kats

I don't know. I would guess - as per thread title - that it was 'HLS30Q', plus - it seems likely - an extra letter identifier for the Portuguese sub-variant, because they were unique in certain details. Maybe something like 'HLS30QU' or 'HLS30QE' (for the well-regarded 'Entreposto') would have worked. 'HLS30U' just doesn't make sense as an identifier for the Portuguese market variants. Nissan tended not to share 'Katashiki' codes across variants that were quite different, and - as we know - 'HLS30U' was the base code for the North American market models, with extra suffixes for further sub-variants. Why would Nissan risk confusing matters by also using 'HLS30U' for the Portuguese market cars? I've often asked for evidence of factory codes from glovebox bases on Portuguese market cars, which might give useful clues, but nothing forthcoming so far.

Yes that's my problem, I want what is original to my 72 AU delivered 240z. Which was the earlier style unit. This is what I currently have out of a Fairlady Z-S with no antenna switch and you'll note there is no DX->LOW insignia below the tuning knob label. It certainly looks the part and I thought about just putting an antenna switch in (since I have a couple spare) but I figure if I can get the original I would. In AU market cars, all our cars from 1970-73 had the TM-1081ZA unit. You can get replacement Faceplates from 240zrubberparts.com and in fact that's exactly what I did. See thread here.

I headed out to the storage tent today to remove the rear end of the 510 and start tearing down. Found something I hadn't noticed when I bought it. So what could be the story here? He's driving the car and losses his P/S rear wheel so he pulls over and throws the wheel into the trunk and instead of calling a tow truck figures he'll just drive it home. How many miles does it take to wear a wheel cylinder in half? Well, I know why the car was taken off the road now?