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jfa.series1
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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/03/2020 in Posts
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3 pointsFrom grunge to glitter! Next up - Dremel wire brush to clean out all the insides, then wet sand final prep for handoff to the plater. I was pretty lucky with this group, only one body had a couple of dings and only one had any serious patina issues.
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3 pointsLooking at these pics - I have been doing body filler on my 240z for many weekends now, and it's amazing how this car is getting bondo in mostly the same places. I mean, my car is nearly skim coated over all panels now, but areas that take more are similar to yours - below belt line on fenders, slightly above belt line on doors and below belt line extensively, touch up areas on quarter panels, only below the parking lamps on the left and right valances, etc. This car you are restoring is getting a fair amount of metal work. Lots of hours go into that stuff. Must be costing A LOT!3 points
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Interesting company and marketing plan. The company was started in the town where I grew up - Superior, WI. Not quite on the edge of civilization, but you can see the edge from there. My dad built their warehouse in the mid-1970s. I was briefly a dealer in their pyramid marketing plan and used Amsoil in the Porsche 914 I was driving at the time, 40 years ago. My biggest recollection was that when I switched from petroleum based oil to Amsoil in the 914 gas mileage improved greatly (32 mpg to 36 mpg, if I remember correctly) and I had to lower the idle speed significantly. Slippery stuff. Dennis2 points
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Given his history, I just can't believe ANYTHING that character says!2 points
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2 pointsIt's finally time to move the jig ... lets see if the dolly plan worked .... custom lifting tool .... ...caster bolted up ... repeat ... easy peasy ....
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2 pointsIf I recall right there are different size distributor caps out there. I think that the ZX cap might be a hair smaller. If you put your 280Z cap on a ZX distributor it might be loose. Or if you went to the auto parts store and asked for a 78 280Z cap, but you have a ZX distributor. A possibility, I think.2 points
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1 pointI pulled this nest of inspection lights out of the garage attic stash yesterday. By moving quickly, I was able to get them de-fanged before any harm was done! ?
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I'd start by verifying the actual coolant temperature. If it is too cold I'd pull the thermostat and give it the boiling water test. It could be stuck in the open position.1 point
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1 pointNice de-fangeling Jim! The ones I purchased are not available at this time. This is roughly what you are looking for, a SPST on off toggle switch, the hole for the switch is 12mm, I would probably solder the leads instead of using the screw terminal and remove the on off plate. Not sure about the quality, but you get 5 for about 10 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Rocker-Toggle-Switch-Waterproof/dp/B078KBC5VH/ref=pd_ybh_a_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BGC5ZQ1MQTNHNWVSJWKE1 point
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I was a distributor for a brief period while I swapped out all my fluids on the 370Z. Great stuff and works awesome. Good backstory on the company too, as it is a family kinda businesss rather than a huge oil conglomeration product. I never had to enlist new people or anything, just paid for a distribution agreement and got a 30% discount basically. I picked up the oil from their warehouse in Edmonton. Easy peasy. Never thought it was pyramid scheme, but it might operate differently in the states than here.1 point
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This is the easiest way to see where your fuel levels are in the float chambers. It's simple to do and will get you close enough to know whether you need to go further. The small hose is available at any hardware store or fish aquarium supply business, I think it's 3/16" but it's been awhile since I've done it. I think this was done by @zKars so that's who we say thank you too. If I'm wrong, thank you to whoever did this.1 point
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I don't even know who you are mbz. And I reserve the right to reply to other Classiczcars.com member's posts. The topic turned to the AM in AMsoil. The marketing plan. Not whatever your original question was. I think that Tupperware has a similar arrangement. Edit - forgot to say. You can use the Ignore feature of the forum, and never see my posts, as long as you are logged in. I use it on a couple of members and it works well. Just hover your mouse over my screen name and the option will show. "Ignore User".1 point
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1 pointI found that there is a certain tolerance between the rotor and each contact. I'd be surprised if it was that simple, but ill check that as well.
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1 pointWell chap, my tuner who prepares race cars said it was, hence my path to the 123 dizzy as the play in the shaft can cause spark scatter / inaccurate timing at high engine speeds. At 6k rpm that thing is spinning 50 times per second!! The RockAuto Cardone remanufactured one I bought wasn’t much better. While the bushes can be quite easily replaced (there was a guy in the US that made them) the shaft itself gets worn. So unless you can get a new shaft, you will always have some play. I’m a geek so for me it eventually mattered. The only way to get rock solid high speed timing IMHO is crank triggered systems but it all comes down to what you want from your car and how much perfection matters ;) I’m learning the hard way that sometimes, good enough is good enough! But for me it’s more than about driving the car, it’s about giving myself “something to constantly tinker with” - read headaches!!! ;)1 point
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But a lot of the distributors also sell it as part of their garage or autoparts business so the emphasis on getting more distributors working under you is not a priority. Technically I'm a distributor but I only use to get a discount for me and friends.1 point
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1 pointWhilst poking around inside my 4/70 HLS30UV project car the other day, I noted that the passenger floor tar mat was manufactured in a shape which accommodates the possibility of fitting an OEM passenger footrest:
1 point@jalexquijano What's going on with your Z that you doubt that the floats are set wrong. Any negative symptoms or is it just a case of settling the issue in your mind. I hope it's been running well.1 point1 pointI think you may be on to something. I can think of two possible causes: 1. Resistance in circuit changes current pulse shape (RC rise/fall time increases) 2. Higher current without the resistor saturates the detector circuit and it does not work. I tried more loops in the past with no luck.1 pointExcellent oil for sure, the objections to Amsoil are mostly based around how they sell the product, kind of an Amway model. I do see it being sold in some stores now, glad everything worked out for you.1 point1 pointA buddy of mine with pets and a similar love of cars put me onto a great shop convenience and floor maintenance idea. Puppy Pads. Let's face it. If you have a Datsun, you have dribbles under your Datsun. If you take the engine out for example, you forget to cap the heater coolant pipes on the engine, and even though you drained the rad, when you tip the engine as it comes out, antifreeze hits the floor in great quantities. (I myself have never done this... I just imagine it's an issue). Puppy pad absorbent sheets are utterly fantastic. Big (30x23inch), cheap, super absorbent, did I mention cheap? 100 pads are $25 CAD at Costco. I used to use newspapers, but I no longer get a paper newspaper, so I've been scrounging for newsprint in dumpsters or begging from strangers at bus stops "Hey buddy, you done with that paper?" I did learn a few new words for "No!" however. Big enough to put under a transmission you happen to be rebuilding, under the engine when you're changing oil or draining the rad. Under me when I sitting on a dirty floor. Whatever! I even stuffed one under my big 60 gal air compressor when I open the drain valve to release condensed water. One pad holds a couple of quarts of water I swear. There. That's my "Hint's from Heloise" for today. Keep that floor clean!
1 point1 pointIMO, it's either bad dist. bearings allowing side play in the dist. shaft or a bad rotor. I had a cheap cap and rotor in my 521 that ended up looking like that. New Bosch products cured it.1 point1 pointI'm back! After a couple of cold months and a couple of travel months, I finally been back in the garage tearing the Z apart. Sent the paperwork off to Vermont to get my registration in order to transfer to a VA title. Down to just getting the suspension and the brake hoses out of the Z at this point. Looks like I'll be at LEAST doing a new rear deck sill, replacing the floorpans and rails, doing the A pillar repair as well as some pinhole rust places over the course of this summer. Really looking forward to diving into it all. Due to the extent of what needs to be done I think the plan is going to be do some. I'm plan on doing a good portion of the rust repair, then getting it blasted and primered, finish up any remaining repairs, then move forward from there.
1 pointKats, thank you for your kind words. Heyitsrama, the diameter of the hoop/tubes are just over 19mm There is a photo of the feet removed. 7tooZ, the reproduction rubber foot grip I had CAD drawn from an original, the 3D printed in plastic. For me, the look was much more important than being in the right material. Now, most owners won't use their footrests as much as when originally fitted, as the cars are much more covetted. Your footrest hoop would have to be that diameter, is it? I sold restored footrest to a member here, maybe if he is looking, he can say what he think to my replacement foot grip. I am out of these foot grips, so if there was going to production run, I could look at a group buy. No, I don't know what the last lot cost, as I cancelled the order, but they still came to me, for free! Yes, I made them in two halves, otherwise how do you ge them on...
1 pointMy Z432 and 240ZG have the foot rest , both are rounded big head for the securing bolts to the floor . And Ian you remind me of the foot rest on my Z432 , I clearly remember when my Z432 was in a shop for its restoration back in 2007 . There was a ribbed rubber grip on the table next to a foot rest , I could not see the decal of the plastic bag for the rubber , but a restorer wrapped the foot rest with the rubber adding some adhesive to stick it. Finally clamp them with some plastic bands to hold in place . That was my good memories during the restoration. Kats
1 pointOn your three screw carbs, there should be a float bowl drain plug on the side of the float bowls. The "float sync. tools" replace the drain plugs with the clear tube oriented up. The fuel height in the tube is the same as the fuel height in the bowl. same as if there was a window in the side of the bowl.1 point
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