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Shhhhhh! Don't let too much sunshine in on the magic. Pointing out that the "Made For USA" cars didn't have 151bhp at the flywheel when installed is like telling kids that there ain't no Sanity Clause. It's cruel.

So here is a simple solution to the shaft support issue while whacking. The pipe is a chunk 1/2” electrical conduit with a 17/32 hole (perfect fit on the shift rod BTW), 1” from the edge. The pipe is 0.8” diameter. It butts up against the 3/4” angle iron real nice. You could drill a 1/2 hole and file it out to 17/32” to save buying that bit. I have more pipe on the right than you need. The “punch” is nice and straight on the wedge bolt (its dangling free in the pic, ie not straight) and more or less in the center of the reverse lockout hole. Note that the 1/4 extension has the end cut off some to make sure it traps the end of the bolt, but leaves enough exposed to let it move when you hit it. That’s a 3/8 plate spacing the shift casting off the bottom. Helps keep things in place while you place the angle iron and pipe. The rear shaft pin is out of the casting, and the other guide/spring are out as well to all the shaft components to move in and out and rotate to get everything lined up.

Only had a couple of hours today but got her (more or less) welded up ... cleanup tomorrow ?

The upper left almost looks Ivory. Should work good. Pretty close to white...

alright so i’ve had the car for a bit now and i’ll update everything i’ve done to it so i can keep track, redid most of the wiring for the engine portion, rebuilt carb, fixed detent cable, redid carb throttle cable to get full throttle pull, replaced alternator, replaces swaybar end links, eibach lowering springs, bled brakes with new fluid, added a 160 thermostat and flushed cooling system, replaced a broken pushrod, changed oil twice(water got in the engine and had to change it again) changed diff fluid (did a burnout and found out it’s an lsd) fresh plugs and wires, added extra lights to the bumper for nighttime, fixed some exhaust leaks and fixed a hole in the radiator. runs good but the transmission is not setup to match the engine, and high speed is a bit sketchy. i’ve burned through a set of brakes already so once that’s fixed i’m gonna work on tightening up the suspension bushing and tie rods and such and then it’s on to go fast parts. high speed is also a relative term cause i’ve only had it up to about 100mph.

If you were born in 1970, according to this article, the most important car in the United States was the 240Z. https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/g23320934/car-history/?utm_source=taboola_arb&utm_medium=cpm&utm_campaign=arb_tb_pop_d_t_g23320934&slide=51

Get a Gnose... the hinge is different ?

Just to pile on...Lead acid batteries work because of the semi-reversible chemical reaction. The lead plates eventually react with the sulfuric acid to produce lead sulfate since that compound has a lower energy state. The speed and finality of the reaction is dependent upon how much and how long you discharge the battery. Eventually semi-reversible becomes irreversible. So why does capacity drop so much with little changes in voltage? Think of battery as a water tower. The pressure is proportional to the height of the water tower. As this particular water tower gets older, the inside is getting filled with sediment, and the sediment is also going down the pipe and sticking to the inside of the pipe. When you measure the water pressure (voltage), it still looks good, but with the pipe out of the water tower getting clogged, you don't get any water flow (current). Since the inside of the tank is also filled with sediment, the water empties quickly, and you have no pressure. (The voltage goes to zero.)

Actually! Gas splatter from attempting to depressurize my fuel rail. Don't laugh at me. Haha.

Ok guys. Just tested the off yellow and it was a failure. The black background just consumes it. here is a picture of the orange from the first picture and it looks more brown and barely visible. I think it will have to be a really bright color to overcome the black background. milk try the bright yellow and see how it comes out. It’s one thing on the computer and another in practice.

12 is half capacity. When lead acid batteries get fully discharged bad things happen. I had one in the garage that I kept charged but it went dead a couple of times. Then it was toast. Wouldn't hold a charge. Apparently the plates get coated and don't transfer the lead to the acid. Like having a smaller battery in a big package. There are internet stories about how to save them. Drain the acid, rinse the plates, put new acid in. At the end it might work and you have a bunch of nasty lead contaminated acid to deal with. You can also find methods of charging at high amperage to regenerate the plates, but you have to be careful of hydrogen gas and boiling acid. You can probably gamble on five used batteries and find a winner for less pain. It's a fun subject to study but it gets complex. https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/battery/bat_volts.php

I usually punch a hole in them then use a screw in the hole to pull on. That seal is probably pretty small though. That pipe with the hole in it is pretty slick.

Upper left is the one, looks like 43 yr old white.

How about something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-Pro-37019-Seal-Puller/dp/B008M238HU?ref_=ast_bbp_dp I've got something similar from HF, but I can't find it on their website.

Sweet. Thanks. Anyone else seconds the upper left? I ll take 2 for consensus.

Well most people are going to want white, strong vibrant colours are going to look out of place but that orange might do the trick, better if you could find a way to dull it down. It's just a fuse box cover, you don't want it to draw the eye to it, you just want it to blend in.

besides leaking oil, you may have an vacuum leak (the pcv assumes an air tight valve cover). a vacuum leak there will cause problems with the EFI system as unmetered air gets sucked into the manifold.

Well then I suppose I might start by getting a new rocker cover gasket and fixing that bolt.

Oops....

For @wheee! ...because people never post their fails ??? My rad support is slightly thicker than factory and it is about 1.5 mm farther forward than factory (oops), So the front edge is just over 2mm farther forward than factory. Turns out that is really important .... ????