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What I'm seeing is quite a lot of people not quite understanding the difference between the 432 and the 432-R. I think that will probably continue, just as it does in the classic Porsche world where Mr Average just won't have a deep enough interest to spot the difference between a 911S and a 911R at ten paces. I take your point about people tending to think that the rising tide raises all ships, but that's been happening across the rest of the S30 range with people wanting to believe that recent sale prices for early/'significant' 240Zs are pulling up prices of later 240Zs, 260Zs and 280Zs. They may even be right to some degree, but there are still a lot of those cars extant and available, which must suppress average values somewhat. That's not the case with extant 432s and - more so - the 432-Rs, most of which are known to enthusiasts in Japan individually (by chassis number no less), and there are not many hiding undiscovered any more. This will tend to keep prices high. I think it's fair to say that rising values of 432s and 432-Rs - along with other rare models like the 240ZG - have been of concern to long-term owners in Japan. People who bought their cars 20, 30 and 40 years ago are not necessarily rejoicing, and some may see high value as something of a burden due to unwanted attention (the wrong kind of attention...) and higher insurance implications with strictures on storage and use.

Only I disagree with you on this, the most desirable models fetching record prices does trickle down to the lower specification models. I've seen this time and again. Just a few examples: 1. Air cooled 911s get mental money, the humble 912s climb in value. 2. Skyline GTRs (R32) start selling for double what they did a few years ago, R33's start to climb in anticipation of 25 year rule in US of A impacting the values of all R32/R33/R34 models. Don't get me started on R34 GTR values, the rarest specs are selling for crazy money, but even the lowest non V-Spec cars are getting crazy money. 3. C10 GTRs are now over quarter million mark and the humble non-GTRs (clones) are asking $100k+ 4. Spirit R and Type RZ FD RX-7's go for $100k+ and lower spec Type RB, RS, Bathurst R etc.. models all increase. This is because those who want the "special" versions or higher spec cars are priced out, so they look at the next most desirable options and may a Premium for them in a rising market. It trickles down to the lower specification cars. Early 240z's fetch a Premium over later 72/73 models. But a rising tide as Warren Buffet says lifts all boats. So later 240z/260z and even 280z's have increased in value in the past 3-4 years (in some cases doubling in value). I agree that rusty buckets shouldn't increase in value much, given the work needed and potential return on investment being poor. But good quality cars will always increase in value (IMHO) given that cost of certain parts continues to go up, labor costs increase and supply drops over time. At least until a demographic shift causes certain marques to fall out of favour and in some cases (50/60s cars) can be bought for a song compared to their restoration costs.

Now run a line to a beer keg and I’ll be down to help paint...

I decided to create a separate, new Topic to better explain the repairs that I did for my 70 Z's ashtray. It's posted (with a few pictures) in the 'Interior' section. More, and more accurate, details about what I did.

Thank you for your service Mike. Your generation inspired mine to serve in your honour and footsteps. My combat tour with the Taliban in panjwaii will never compare to the hardship and loss you endured in Vietnam. I lived in a concrete bunker on a reinforced mountain with internet, hot food and showers. Yes we were surrounded by enemy at all times and were attacked daily, but were supplied and defended by incredible modern weapons. As a current Warrant Officer, I remind my troops daily of the sacrifices of previous generations and the current “day care” mentality of the military. Again, hats off to you and your generation.

Mark, As a Vietnam veteran Marine I thought you hit this one out of the park. "Ours is not to question why. Ours is but to do or die." Once the s*** starts to fly it comes down to you and your buddies. Politics are a long way away. If you survive then you can take the time to think about it. Cheers, Mike

Tool day today: Added in-line vapor trap, filter and dryer to the booth so I can have a paint quality air tap available in the booth. No more rattle can primer for me!

I find this rather interesting... and I am thinking about how to proceed. It seems that the panel gaps around the doors for this car are not ideal. This is likely a 240z thing or more precisely a 240z of my 240z's vintage thing... but I think the panel gaps here need to be worked a bit to be improved. Front of passenger door, bottom door gap line: At the front, bottom corner, the door panel edge rises upward a bit, increasing the gap distance between the door and the rocker: Passenger side, where the quarter panel dog leg attaches to the rocker, the distance across the gap to the bottom edge of the door is noticeably narrower than the distance across the gap from the rocker panel to the door bottom edge. Also, the door gap is inconsistent along this radius at the bottom, back part of the door to the quarter panel. Driver side, where the quarter panel dog leg attaches to the rocker, the distance across the gap to the bottom edge of the door is noticeably narrower than the distance across the gap from the rocker panel to the door bottom edge. Also, the door gap is inconsistent along this radius at the bottom, back part of the door to the quarter panel. Front of driver door, bottom door gap line: At the front, bottom corner, the door panel edge rises upward a bit, increasing the gap distance between the door and the rocker: I believe I have a bit more door alignment to do with the driver side door, so that the gap distance for the front of the door is the same as the gap distance on the bottom of the door. However, I also think I will be adding a bit of weld bead to the bottom front edge of both doors and shaping the added metal to eliminate this issue. For the quarter panel areas, I've already started doing minor surgery in the corner of the dog legs to improve door gap in that radius. This is visible in recent posts of the passenger side work.

Also found a part number ... "Body side panel and sill -From Aug 1973"

Finally got all my pistons in. Been busy lately but finally got the last one in today. I wanted to post a pic of the rod bearing clearance. I used plastigage. The FSM says the clearance should be 0.025 to 0.055 mm. Here’s how mine came out. Looks to be to be slightly more than the .051 indicator on the plastigage wrapper. So it meets spec in my opinion. What do you all think? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No. The first one is a generic water / oil trap. It's fine for air tools but probably not good enough for paint (some water oil gets through it). The second stage is the oil filter. The third one is a desiccant vapor filter. It's pretty dry here so it might be overkill, but it's also a pretty minor expense in the big picture. (I am a decent "painter" but a crappy "blender" so I need to minimize rework and do a series of one takes ?)

Most of the whole world see's zero extra value in the 'Franklin Mint Z'. Also remember that the whole car was effectively an insurance 'total loss'....

Silvermine sells the came axle I installed. Spoke with them at length and my binding seemed to be caused by the axle being well below horizontal. Jacking the control arm towards horizontal relieved the binding. Continuing on with rear brake install and will be able to check everything at ride height.

Yes, until about the late 60s it was not uncommon for import dealers to have left- overs re-titled as the next model year. I have a letter from Datsun headquarters outlining what models - at the time of the letter, if memory serves, 411, roadster, trucks - could be re-titled and how to go about it. All that changed when I became a Datsun mechanic in the spring of 1970. Now the dealers couldn't keep cars in stock or on the show room floor. Wise guy mechanics like me called the salesmen "order takers", heady times.

Glad to see they are back. I actually didn't do anything. PB had a message on their front page about it but had not thought about it tonight. If it happens again I will re-create the post as I have all of the pictures backed up.

Done!

Thanks for the great information. Since I live in TX and it does get very hot here I think I will go with the ceramic MSA. I do love the looks of the SS though. Below are some pics of the car. 75K documented miles and first owner had car until 2012. Original window sticker and all service documentation throughout history of car. Next is on to Ztherapy SU carbs. Called them and they are booked out until June.. Geez they must be busy. Couple pics of the car below.

Oh I so agree! Sadly I’ve had to cover up the S/S with a diy aluminium heat shield going as I have a very hot engine bay and really don’t like the idea of fuel above hot manifold. As it happens I now get condensation on the carb domes after a spirited drive and they feel “fridge cold” to the touch as opposed to the old hot feel. Also a lot less fuel vaporisation issues idling in traffic on hot days.

Another thing to check. It doesn't have anything to do with your problem, but the stopper guide pin is a common source for oil leaks. I use a silicone type sealant suitable for oil environments to cover the exposed ends of the pin and create a good seal.

The movement you see the your video is normal. The hole "bushing" where the selector shaft goes through in not a tolerance fit. It has a large clearance so splash oil can pass through to the striking guide and striking rod contact points. When the transmission housing is bolted together and the striking rod is supported by the front housing section the excessive movement will be gone. Did you have this problem before the rebuild? Did you replace any parts in the reverse gear section? Like Dave mentioned. Is the selsctor rod hitting and binding in the striking guide? Other things that can cause difficult shifting: - Tolerances in new parts - Bent selector fork rods - Worn or damaged interlock springs or balls. See SMT137

Work to straighten out the misaligned rocker panel (at the factory) has begun. In addition to the problem I already showed pictures of, the top of the rocker panel had some misalignment as well. The outer panel was noticeably low along the top edge, but only for the center portion of the rocker panel. This caused a dip in the top surface that the aluminum threshold goes over top of: You can even see where the spot welder completely missed in attempting to join the inner and outer panels. Seems the workers at the factory had to adjust the welder downward to hit the outer panel, and even then, they could only pick up the top edge. I didn't show how I corrected it, but I just drilled out the spot welds, then used the stud welder to put some pins on the weld flange, and then used a crow bar and piece of plate to protect the top surface of the rocker, while prying up on the pins. This allowed me to put enough lifting force on the weld flange to raise the low area of the rocker. I then welded, with my Mig, the holes left from cutting out the factory spot welds, and ground everything flat again with the surface of the outer panel's weld flange: It's not perfect, but it is much better. Metal work like this is a big time suck. Lots of tedious grinding of welds. I finished them off with my hand held belt sander. I hope to experiment with the spot welder I bought on this flange, but the electrodes may be too large in diameter to align well on this flange. We'll see. Next up was the part where the quarter panel folds over the rocker at the back. Interesting to see what is inside. After a light dressing with wire brush... and the outer panel piece receiving some attention in the glass bead cabinet: The sandblaster was again employed to remove corrosion and get to nice metal. Got several pictures while this area was seeing the light of day: Close ups showing pitting (light pitting, in my opinion): My first 240z was missing the entire dog leg corner (inner and outer). So nice to see this area in such nice condition. Pic showing up inside (bare metal from the factory and the seam sealer they used in the wheel arch). A few more minutes in the glass bead cabinet with the panel. The dark corner (upper left in pic) was pitted too much, so I made a section to replace that. Taping for application of weld thru primer. I've never used it before. It is kind of transparent (has been applied in second pic): Tape removed and outer panel tacking in progress with new fabricated piece also (bottom left) As the welding occurs, the panel wants to move around. I used the stud welder to yank on low areas, trying to keep alignment as best as I can as welding continues: Alignment is not bad. Lots of time involved with keeping alignment, tacking, and eventually grinding. I easily have more than 30 hours of time with fixing the rocker and removing and reapplying this panel. The end result of the main effort, to straighten the bottom of the rocker panel/quarter panel along the bottom of the car is "better". Sometimes I can't get things good enough to my liking. I've ground the welds in the last picture down and filled small voids etc. More pics will follow, but it's time to get out there and work on the car again. ?

I can appreciate everyone's point that the hinges may be worn. The reason I am skeptical in my case and possibly BoldU's case is that the hood closed properly before it was removed. I would think if the hinges are worn, it would not have closed previously. Anyone disagree?

Good to know. It seems copper slag and coal slag are pretty aggressive compared to play sand. But much safer, I am sure. Once the outside of the car was stripped to that point, I mounted it on a rotisserie:

Some of the smaller panels after dent straightening and sand blasting: And other parts getting stripped. Lots of stripping!

IMO any AC that gets cold is better than none at all