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Finally! My Christmas themed car is looking good this time of year!

Great info regarding the caps! And the Silicone caps from McC would fit the bill more than likely. I went with the 2" piece of radiator hose and a #8 bolt for $2.80 -Thanks!

Now roll it outside and get a few flakes on it.⛄

I’ve used copper end caps with a piece of copper pipe soldered in and a jubilee clip to great effect. The PO had used the bolt method which had corroded a lot reacting with the coolant. The copper method works a treat and totally heat proof! https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F121665667956

Hi Kats, Merry Christmas! As Alan mentions, you can make nearly any size DCOE carb work with any engine due to their adjustable sub-componets, however; Weber does give recommendations for racing and street use. These are plotted below. In parallel, many engine tuners over the past decades have published recommended configurations for the street. They generally recommend 40mm and 42mm for street for 2.4 to 2.6 litre engines.... so for a two litre, 40mm would lean more to the higher side. According to the great DCOE tuner John Passini, he mentions in several publications that the transition from a small choke to a larger carb throat causes fuel to precipitate to the carb floor. For example going from 32mm choke to a 40mm carb throat has less fuel precipitation than going from 32mm throat to 45mm carb throat. Weber recommends that the ideal choke size for racing is ~ 80% of the diameter of the carb throat. So for a 45mm carb, a 36mm choke would be best. This is a very large choke for street driving and give poor low rpm performance. A lot of great data is at this site that Hoover and I love.. they use 82% ratio for Solex: http://www.carry-back.com/CARRY BACK Carbu setting 2.htm

The relay (CB1F-D-WM-24V ) is an electrical control device. When the change of the input quantity (excitation quantity) reaches the specified requirements, the controlled quantity will undergo a predetermined step change in the electrical output circuit. Appliances. It has an interactive relationship between the control system (also known as the input loop) and the controlled system (also known as the output loop). Usually used in automated control circuits, it is actually an "automatic switch" that uses small currents to control high current operations. Therefore, it plays the role of automatic adjustment, safety protection, and conversion circuit in the circuit.

If you have the money - I would stay EFI . Buy one of the kits that some of these Megasquirt dealers are selling for our cars . Almost plug and play - cleans up your wiring , keep your stock intake and maybe injectors too, plus the pump should be correct .

Merry Christmas ! I will stay “ stock “ on my Z432 , make a racing engine using the spare engine. Blue , I like 40’s too ! Kats

That picture shows how the clutch fork pivot ball mounting hole is a through-hole to the oil containing area. It can leak if you don't seal it. Just adding...

And while I'm thinking about it.... I mentioned earlier about the possible wisdom of put the 62mm front counter shaft bearing in your FS5W71B transmission. I must mention that it will then require two additional items other than the bearing. The front cover plate for the C trans must be used as the recess in the back is sized for the larger bearing. It ain't cheap either. $99 from https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71-series-transmission-front-bearing-retainer-original-equipment-fits-nissan-84-4-cyl-cars-trucks/ Aha! they have an aftermarket one as well, cheap. Sure, an ambitious (cheap?) guy could hog out the cover to fit the larger bearing too... This also means you will need a bearing shim for the C trans as well. Different thicknesses are available. There is also a tiny detail about the C bearing being 17mm thick vs the B bearing being 16mm thick. Some case material may have to be removed around the bearing just like you do with a full C type conversion, maybe somewhat less.

A donation has been made in all your names to the Human Fund! The Human Fund, money for people. Merry Christmas all!

Sorry about the lack of updates, but Christmas and family stuff keeps getting in the way. Still haven't tried my hand at making a 62 mm hole out of a 56mm hole. Received the BK104WS trans rebuild kit from transmissionpartsdistributors.com today, finally. Got to say first their customer service is poor. Actually totally lacking. tracking showed they made the label on Dec 8th 2 days after I put the order in, then nothing changed on tracking until the 21, when it actually shipped, and got here on the 24th! (just now). USPS/Canada Post rocks to do this in three days at this time of year. I emailed once and phoned once during the Dec 8-21 gap and never received an email or phone call back. Chances are they were waiting for parts to come in from somewhere. Would have been nice to let me know that. But the thing showed up. And the contents are EXACTLY the same, part for part, as what I received from drivetrain.com. Only difference is the price. $135 from drivetrain, $78 from transmissionpartsdistributors. Both identical $40 shipping fee. So if you have 3 weeks to wait, then TPD is the obvious choice of vendor.

I put up pictures in my garage of my two favorite Z Heroes in the world. Z Doctor of Roanoke (RIP) and Eiji Hosomi of Datsun Spirit. Merry Christmas all!

I don't recall any pins on the vacuum advance unit. Just the tiny screw that attaches the arm to the breaker plate and the big screw that locks the unit to the distributor body. Usually you can twist the unit after the big screw is out to break it free from the distributor body. Couldn't identify the tiny screw so I just marked the spot where it attaches. Remove those two screws and all that holds it in is corrosion. Some heat on the body (housing) might expand it enough to break loose.

I have 45DCOE-9s on both my S20s. Driveability is fine. Even with 8L cams, S20 is a pussycat.

I say "put the 44mm on the spare S20" Make it your special race engine and keep the Z432 original. I'm drooling. Merry Christmas!

Hey Kats, Like you, I always liked the look of the Type Q carbs. I think they have a nice aesthetic appeal. I would use them on your hot rod S20 build, but leave your Z432 as original as possible. It's beautiful as it is. Many owners of U20 Roadsters remove the Type Q's for later carbs, which I think is a shame. I like to see the original carbs on a U20 motor. But not many people think the way I do when it comes to that level of originality with the old Roadsters. Very hard to find a good original car here, many have been messed about with over the years.

So one or more of the valves were sticking before the engine warmed up completely, if they were sticking closed that could indicate a failed or lazy lifter, too tight valve guide or misaligned guide, or a burr. If sticking open that points to too tight vale guide or misaligned guide or a burr. That slap you heard could have been the piston hitting the valve and closing it. If the mechanic over reamed the guides the valves could be binding because of too much slop or misalignment, if he knurled the guides they could just be too tight because he didn't ream enough and as the engine warms up they expand and allow easier movement, it's called morning sickness. Now it's drinking oil, anyway I look at it you still have to pull the head, examine and measure those guides.

The BE chapter has several schematics that should let you figure out what's what. I think that it's essentially just two 4 pin relays in the same box. I couldn't find a single picture that showed every pin, but here's one that shows one side. You other option is to just take the old one apart and copy it.