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I just never seem to learn. Needed some 1/4 to 1/2" spacers for the last couple of sets of front wheels I've had on my 510 to get them to clear the coil overs and fit the car right. Everybody does this to trim-out-the-fitment thing. Well I went to the speed shop and bought some that are 3/8". How hard is it to get a flat piece of metal with some holes in it? Well I learned the hard way, again. Very hard apparently. The only ones they had were, shall we say, not very expensive. These cast aluminum or unknown pot metal something's are absolutely pieces of you-know-what. I have been battling wheel shimmy for months, and never dreamed it would be these things. They are only 0.015 inch variance in thickness, but that amount, magnified out to the wheel/tire diameter made the wheels run out by 0.050 inches, which is nearly 1/16". Replaced them with these. Had a local metal shop laser cut these in 15 min. 5.75 diameter, 3" center hole, 1/2 diameter bolt holes at 4.5 bolt spacing. 1/4" 6061 TOTALLY REMOVED ANY AND ALL STEERING WHEEL VIBRATION I HAD, and it was not insignificant. Almost made it unpleasant to drive. Reminded me of this Beware! I wonder where they are made.... hmmmmmm.... Another way to see just how anti-flat these are. I sprayed them lightly with black and gave them a quick surface sanding on my reference flat abrasive platten (3/4" MDF with glued on sand paper).

Judging by the bumpers (no rubber trim) I'd say it is likely to be an S30-S model 'Z-S' / 'Z-Std' / 'Standard' Fairlady Z rather than a Deluxe. The S30-S model had a 4-speed transmission as stock equipment, but the 5-speed O/D trans was an extra cost showroom option. Should be pretty easy to pin down the original model type. It looks to be in great unmessed-with 'survivor' condition and should be pretty easy to sell. Why not try to sell it here on classiczcars.com? Is it my imagination (can't see it all that clearly) or has the original bonnet/hood 'Z' emblem been replaced with a 'Datsun' emblem from an Export market car?

My Father In Law passed away and he has some vehicles. One that he has is a 1972 Blue Fairlady Z with original 40,511 miles on it. The vehicle has never been converted to US emissions and does not even have a US vin # attached to it. The body and interior are in excellent condition but the engine has not been turned in quite a while. It appears that this vehicle was oringally owned by a US servicemen as it has a US Armed Forces sticker in the upper center of windshiled dated 1974. The left side window still has a sticker on it from Japan. Everything on the vehicle is in japanese. Where is a great place to put this vehicle up for sale as it may be a one of a kind.

I would expect the material of the Z-S rubber mats to be the same as those the very first Export cars, but of course the shape would be different in RHD vs LHD configurations with the details for the pedal areas also differing. Rib pattern area is port-to-starboard rather than fore-to-aft. I think the photo on question might show an extra foot mat over the original full-length mat? Here's the passenger side Z-S floor mat in my 432-R replica for comparison:

Yes sir, 240260 is gonna help me with with that one sometime! Thank you!

I'll definitely pick those up, messaged him thank you! He suggested scotch bright, just used that hopefully its okay? Not too positive Haha I'm just gonna buy the ones 240 is selling ?

Thank you, I have some photos but will need to get it out for the rest of pics.

Glad to hear you are making progress. Note: there are two types of connectors. 1-The old style that your z most likely has already. These have a very annoying spring clip that tends to be a pain to remove and are easily lost , and 2- new style that have a push type spring that allows you to remove the connector easily with one hand and no tool. Make sure you get the second kind. I think most sellers are only selling these now, but just make sure. Also, before you order the connectors, make sure ALL the other connectors to various sensors in the FI harness are in good shape. The same ebay sellers sell a complete connector kit that will cover all the sensors (or at least most of them) for not much more money than just the injectors. Len

Guilty! I have a small world.

Google "240z balance tube plugs". Or just take the ones off you want to replace to a hardware store.

FJ707 on rockauto at fair price connectors on ebay https://www.ebay.fr/itm/182467139699 Thanks! But i still don't know exactly what happened. I did not touch injector 1...and i recover power!!!

Ha, you are just using this opportunity to show off your beautiful carb and intake setup ... ?

It's the 'Seibi' sticker. Maintenance/check precautions. Annoying Nanny State stuff which used to be known as common sense... If the printed writing is still legible its a good pointer to a little-used car I'd say. Enthusiastic cleaning rubbed them bare.

Read down a few...

I see two mats; a mat with ribs running laterally across the car and another mat with ribs running longitudinally on top. I'll bet the mats were the same as what was exported. Also noticing a dogleg shift insinuating a 5-speed. What is the silver plate on the door just ahead of the handle? It doesn't seem to be a step light. Blanking plate?

Forward seat-mount brackets, as fitted to the Japanese market cars:

Thanks for the great tips. Teflon tape is a great sealer for household plumbing projects, but not very valuable when it comes to automotive or industrial applications involving gas or oil. Sorry for the response delays but work-shorthanded as normal the past several months, church work-love serving my LORD and SAVIOR-and babysitting-always a lot of fun with the grandkids, get in the way of the car project at times. Still waiting on some additional responses about the BCCD delete option or access to the diaphragms and gaskets needed. Thanks again, John, Lugoff, SC

There's a beautiful set of SUs ready to bolt on for sale on here. Figure how much rebuild kits are plus your time then compare to $250 with a 24/7 tech guy. The one that's helping you now. Post that advert link @240260280

Mr.650: Given the car's age and condition (by now you realize the mileage is likely more like 130K, right?), and since you figure to perform tweaks that will require extensive disassembly anyway, it would be wise to rebuild all of the front suspension, replacing all the joints, and probably some of the bushings Helpful tip: whenever available, always use joints that can be serviced (and do so regularly). "Sealed for Life" guarantees a short one. Just an observation... PS: I can't say exactly how much I've lowered my '77, but I've been quite happy with 205/65 15s for quite some years now.

Thanks everyone! Just saved myself a lot of trouble!

Sorry for the delay. ID of the spacer tube is 1.290 inches. My assumption is that the original target was 32.75 mm OD of the spacer tube is 1.685 inches. My assumption that the original target was 42.75 mm Anything close to that would be fine. The OD of the stub axle where the bearings reside is 1.250 inches. This means that the 1.290 ID of the spacer tube results in about .020 inch (0.5mm) gap per side if you get the spacer centered. So reverse engineering the design, I'm theorizing they picked the size something like this... "ID of the spacer to be 1 mm larger than the OD of the shaft, and it should have a 5.0 mm wall thickness."

According to the owner's manual for 79, it does not need leaded gas.

For fuel, fill it with a name brand gas station fuel. Regular is what the car runs on, no advantage in using another higher octane grade other than if non-ethanol fuel is available in your area, Add a bottle of gas line antifreeze / water absorber to eliminate any moisture - water in the fuel tank from sitting for extended periods. The car really needs to be driven to restore its driveability and performance. The potential buyer should understand that. Nice looking car, my favorite - original & unrestored. Best of luck with sale!

bring a trailer or hemmings

Fuel injection is an option, but, some upgrades to the fuel delivery (pump and line) are going to be required. Depending on your Mikuni type, you can set them up for street driving no problem (40mm variant). However, if you have a larger set of Mikuni's (44mm) they are likely designed for a more aggressive engine setup. This is what I know about mine, anyway. I have the 40mm and they are nice carbs (cold starts are a little rough though). You can buy a set of rebuilt SU's that will last your lifetime. Ztherapy out of Salem, OR is the best resource for this option. If you have the Mikuni's, then you'll likely need to buy a new air filter setup for the SU's as well. Good luck! Mike

90-150 depending on if you get just the bearings and gaskets or the whole set (balk rings). lots of places sell them, they don't include the needle bearings for the gear clusters, I guess those are not a typical failure point. you get the main ball bearings, gaskets and seals, brass balk rings and the one needle bearing that fits on the input shaft. I would say that unless there is a known issue OR you just want the experience (I fully understand that as well), rebuilding may not be needed. You could just install it, try it, then if not happy pull and rebuild. It takes me about 5 hrs to pull a transmission so its not like a huge investment in time to try it out. A lot of the time for me was just getting the car up high enough and safe enough to crawl around and have room enough to drag it out from under the car.

If you use a small jack under the tire once you have the whole car up and get the weight off it's easy. I didn't have to use the fork removal tool, just tapped the vertical threaded rod out with a hammer after removing the castle nut. Hollar back when you get ready to do it if we can help.

have you noted excessive play in the steering parts? IIRC the inner tie rod is only one flavor now, so if you go that route make sure you get the correct outers. What is the symptom that you are attempting to correct with the replacement parts?