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I used to use thin stuff like that. Until I tried 1/4" cotton cord - wet. I've done 3 or 4 that way now and it works so much better, pulls so much faster, no torn rubber, faster around the top corners, it amazes me. Ya, this stuff - wet - it's unbelievable.

The only thing the cord needs to be is 1. Strong enough not to break, and 2. thick enough so that when you wrap it around your hand to pull in tight spots it doesn't cut your hand in half. Leather gloves are your friend. Do little circles in the corners to get the gasket seated. Also the thinner it is, the more likely it will be to tear the rubber if you pull it wrong. 3/16-1/4" rope is a good balance, and I will try that wet trick next time. Genius! HB olfa knife blade flat against the glass to remove outer rubber flange works every time to remove the old gasket and get the glass out. Never broken one. Old gaskets can be rock hard, so it takes a bit of pressure and repeated passes, so wear leather gloves and eye protection for when the blade breaks. Got lots of tricks for putting it in, just a bit hard to explain. Most important is to get the gasket on the glass 100% all around before you put it in on the car, so that it sits down into the window opening as far as possible all around before you start roping yanking. It should look like it's almost all the way in and down all around. If you can't get it seated well to start with, it will rise maddeningly at the top especially and make it impossible to get the gasket on the pinch weld. If you do it right, your helper really only needs to keep the top center held down as you do the rope thing around the bottom and sides. Last trick is using a flat plastic tool to help you seat the gasket all the way over the pinch weld as you go along. This one is my favorite. When you push it between the glass and gasket (inside, 90 deg to the gasket)) and pull toward you , it forces the "U" of the gasket fully over the pinch weld. If you're not over the pinch weld fully at the bottom, the glass gets offset toward the top too much, making the top very hard to get it started and seated up there. Once you get to the top, using the tool also helps you get the gasket over the pinch weld and finally all seated in place. Anyway, hope this helps. The first couple I did were a bear, now I can do it myself if I get in and out of the car about 1000 times to whack the glass as I go along to keep the top in place. A big sand bag is also handy to help hold the top center down and in place if you're alone.

You got to learn to laugh at yourself. Your standard of workmanship probably does t see too many mistakes like this , but it will happen to the best of us. I’ve done many dumb things like this , but I do learn - until I do something different dumb - lol. I would still like to have your skills for efficiency and class of work any day !

Bought my BRE Car Cover for $39.95 (in 1972). Washed/dried countless times.. The caption says 37 years ago - but now it is 47 years old and a bit faded. Carl B.

The car looks pretty solid, more so than most, I highly doubt any of the suspension components are rusted to the point of being structurally compromised. You sound like you're pretty young. I think you should spend some more time with the car as is and get to know it, as you don't seem to think much of its capabilities. Zs can be made to be plenty capable without a tube frame, or custom suspension.

@ZupYou could build that house for @S30Driver and myself. There's a big ole field across the way according to google earth?

I started at the top on the last one I did. It worked great. We used the Trace Tip of the mono line. I had a set of hand tools that made the line grasp easy: A windshield removal kit has two handles that will easily connect to mono line.

The spring is the throttle pedal bounce intensifier pretty rare part Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nevermind, I found it... Strange error... I'm looking into it.

Ouch. That's not cool, man. (See what I did there?)

Best kind of mistake.... easy to fix!

Man... It's still too early to admit that. Must have really been eatin' at you. Glad it's running!! We'll never speak of this again.

I'm no timing expert, but I don't think there's really any way to really "compensate" with any static source for not having vacuum advance on the distributor. You could maybe squeak your 10 degree base static timing up a degree or two, but there's just no true "substitute" for the vacuum advance at light cruise.

Testing_Canada.mp4

Happy Canada Day to you all!!!

He does have that look in his eye... of LEAVE ME ALONE. WHY ARE YOU LOOKING AT ME?!?!

Hi , today I picked up my orange 240Z from the museum. I immediately noticed it’s air conditioning system didn’t work , so I dropped at an auto electronic shop which has always been helpful for me . Once a year I have to charge the gas , how does everyone do about keeping air cooled in the cabin ? I am really looking for a set of good hoses which is hard to leak . My car’s system has plain hoses with simple cramps all way around, that must be the reason of leaking gas . I have to find a good fabricator of hoses . Oh , and I sent seat bottoms of this orange 240Z to Mr .Sudo for a repair that I made a reservation last year . The one has a split in the middle of the cushion , and the other is going to be split soon . Kats

I'm taking the week off from work, so I started on the fuel injection conversion for the 260Z. I'm taking it slow at first. Today was just getting the carburetors fitted with the fuel injector adapter plates.

Took my wife to ask me if I had gas in it, when I was trouble shooting a fuel issue.

Now that’s funny

Try using string trimmer line, thin, strong and very slippery, no torn rubber.

Tell China that, we need to sell Canola

Actually Steve your cake is correct... there is a lot of USA in us Canadians... we are joined at the hip! Throw in some of Britain and France and you have us nailed down.

That will do it.... well welcome to our club of merely human.... you and your high faloot'n fancy dancy restorations!

Well, it's always good to plug this in before trying to start the engineThe timing was off as well. My soul feels lighter now.

Wow! That's strong

I took social studies twice but not because I like social studies. I am antisocial like my dog. He don't give a flip.

That's too bad

Driveshaft (Nissan call it a propeller shaft) are easy to get out of balance. Like Mark mentioned in his post, the haft shafts turn less than one third of the propeller shaft speed. If you change the uni-joints, payparticular attention to the end play in the spiders. Check the FSM for the tolerance and order shims to adjust the end play. It would be a good move to have the shaft balanced while it's out. Rear transmission mounts and diff mounts can sag when they get old. Sagging can cause vibrations, especially if the bottom bolt hits the top section of the mount. The transmission or the diff can than tap on the bolt. You WILL hear and feel it. Scroll down in the link and you will see what I mean. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html

Right back at you, Philip.

The car sold for $48,500.00!

I went with the black microfiber one. If I don't like it I'll cover the rarely driven blue 280 and order the BRE. Money's a little tight right now, I'm working on my rental house to make the 20 year old cutie and all her friends comfortable. They have pajama parties every night and I'm hoping to be invited.

Mission accomplished

Hi All, I'm the luck winner of this auction. I inspected the car this morning and evaluated the rust condition. Like AZ 240Z posted earlier, the car is pretty original/rust-free and should make a good restoration project. I spent about an hour looking it over and used an o-ring pick and a flat screw-driver to poke everywhere I could to determine where rust was. I was satisfied that what rust existed could easily be welded/repaired. Honestly, I was pretty pleased with the condition of the car. I also removed everything from the rear of the car to inspect the spare-tire well and found two scorpions but no rust. The car is located in a remote area, about 20 miles north of Phoenix. The seller has quite a collection on his 5.5 acres of land to include a forklift that I hope we can use to move the car out. He also has a BMW 320i and a Merkur, not to mention several other vehicles. The seller claims the car has been sitting for 3 - 5 years in the spot it's in now and has no title or any other documentation for the car. I stopped at DMV on the way back to Phoenix to get some advice on getting a title. The car wasn't in the DMV system but the Clerk claimed I could get a Bonded Title as long as the Seller gives me Power of Attorney on the car. The Seller explained he would cooperate any way he could. My plans for the 240 right now is to park it in a friends shop. If I can get a title, I'll bring it home and start working on it. If not, sadly I'll be parting the car out and will post that decision here. I just finished my 1978 Black Pearl 280Z, (another Arizona desert survivor), I'm going to create a post in the Body/Paint section, and post some pictures of that car. Have fun everybody!