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A little more progress. Finished off most of the electrical, added more engine plumbing, installed glove box and partial radio.

Thanks man. This forum looks like a better fit. This car is too nice to modify. Some of the paint is original but I don't know how much. I polished the wheels last night and spent 4 hours buffing the paint and polishing the chrome today. I hand polished it using some light compound and then put a coat of wax on it. It came out nice, but it is still a 20+ footer .

Hey Guys, I was sent here from the Hybridz forum. They said you do more factory and stock cars so it might be a better fit. I wanted to introduce myself. I bought this car 2 weeks ago from an old lady down the street. It was her husbands and he bought it in 1973. The build date is 6/1971. He never drove it in the rain and kept it nice. It hadn't been run in 7 years and hadn't left the garage in 10. I put gas in the carbs and tank, aired up the tires, fired it up and drove it home. It has 98k miles and service records since 1973. I have never owned a z before. I have been reading a bunch and getting familiar with it. So far I have changed the tires, belts, fuel lines, trans fluid, differential fluid, brake fluid, shoes, pads, and unstuck a brake cylinder. I have some interior parts coming to freshen up the interior. I polished the wheels today and tomorrow I am going to buff out the paint. This winter I am going to do the trans and differential seals, suspension, bushings, steering ect.. I am preparing a laundry list now. Aside from the suspension, the car runs and shifts well except when downshifting into third. It grinds every time, no matter what I do. None of the other gears grind. My buddy suggested double clutching but that hasn't worked. The fluid in the trans was thick and smelled like gear oil. I put in red line I think the PO used the wrong fluid. I was reading that the wrong fluid can damage the syncros. Is there anything else I can try to make downshifting into third smoother. Bill

You know I had to chime in here. Still amazes me that people are promoting the technically inferior SUs over the Flat tops, which are stock for this vehicle. I think most do not realize the advances that were incorporated into the flat tops that are not on the SUs. The flat tops feature 1) factory aligned needle and seats 2) a visible glass float bowl level 3) Anti-stall fuel rich mechanism 4) multi-point adjustable fuel mixture screws 5) fuel pump accelerator. I would bet that most who are promoting the SU’s are unfamiliar with these features and have no clue what I am talking about. Personally, this car is about as good as it gets…I even love those hubcaps! OK, no more carb comments from me…I will go back into hiding. I tried to post this comment on the auction site, but looks like they will not allow it....perhaps it is too inflammatory. Maybe I should try to sanitize it and then re-submit.

Ther could be a couple of things causing it to run while the pump has stop. Idling is essentially a no load situation and requires minimal fuel. It looks like (not confirmdd yet) that you have a chronic over fueling issue. You might even have fuel laying around in the inlet manifold. Stop the pump and the air/fuel ratio starts leaning out and it briefly runs better. Well, it's a theory... You NEED to buy a fuel gauge and mount it in the line after the fuel filter. Don't assume stuff. You need to test and confirm or dismiss possabilities. Not doing that will set people on the wrong train of thought and you will be chasing you tale for weeks. Been there, done that, so to speak. The people here can and will help you a lot, but you need to give them solid informatie. Tests you should do asap. - Fuel pressure: If it is a leaking injector or Cold Start Vavle, you can confirm that with the gauge. Ill try and upload a simple procedure I use for testing. Need to find it on my tablet... - Check the spark plugs. That are probably black and sootty from overfuelling. Remove them and stick them through a piece of cardboard with the cylinder number written next to it. Make a photo and post it here. See attachment sootty plugs from a badly leaking cold start valve CSV. - Compression test. Do a compression test and confirm all cylinders are in goed order. It's not that important what the reading is, unless you are reading 75psi on all cylinders.... Most compression gauges are not calibrated accurately showing pressure so 140 could be 160. What you are looking for is variance between the cylinders. They should be (for example) all 135-145psi. Bad would be something like 4 cylinders reading 145psi and two reading 95psi and 110psi. - Read and start doing the tests in the fuel injection bible. There is a very good reason why we call it the bible. Instruction - Fuel Pressure Test 280Z RevB.pdf

Haha!! I understand completely. I went to Penn State, and the EE department forced all the other disciplines to take one introductory electrical class for non-EE majors. Every one of the other disciplines had to take it, and every one of the students universally hated it. So... By the time I got there, the ME department had retaliated and made the other disciplines take one introductory ME class for non ME's. It was thermo and fluid flow, and of all the classes I ever took, I think I despised that one the most. Now that I have identified so many automotive related applications, I'm sure I could get much more out of it. But at the time, it was pure torture. It was even rumored that sometimes people would swap... Your ME friend would take your thermo test for you and you would take their Intro to Circuits tests for them. Not that I ever participated in anything like that, of course.

I was thinking of that too. Zup is the one who swears by A/C Delco Friction Modified. My first Z had a bit of a grind going into 2nd and 3rd. I tore it down and found all pristine synchros. I replaced them just because I had it apart, put it back together and used Kendall gear oil. It worked great. One year later, my friends, trans needed going thru. We replaced his worn synchros with my pristine used ones and it shifted fine. Looking back I suspect my original problem could have been cured with different gear oil. There is one thing that makes me believe your 3rd gear synchro may be bad. Normally the first synchro to go is 2nd gear followed later by 3rd gear.

I wonder if the GM tranny fluid would help? It does sound like the 3rd synchro could be a problem. Nice looking car!

Hi , I forgot to report this , I found this car for sale in June 2017 in Japan . 09/1970 on the door jam tag . This car has an early bonnet which looks to be origin to this car but , the edge of the bonnet doesn’t have a small tab which can be seen in the one from 69- 1970 early. So , this could be the second bonnet , no holes / no reinforcements , no tabs . I enjoyed discovering this car’s condition, many original parts still there . It was a fun to look at various type of “ date” markings are corresponding. The seat belt 8 /1970 , the tool’s contents paper “ 45 . 9. 10 “ September 10th 1970 ) , even the wiring harness showing 70. 9. (September 1970 ) and , I see the jack has corresponding date “ P H Y “ ( 1970 August 25th ) . Someone has to rescue this car , still sitting outside of the shop . Sorry I wrote to many things , just I wanted to give some information of the date to see when this betweenness was applied from and up to . Kats

Here's the link to this beauty, already at $30k with 5 days to go: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-95/

Good thing no fender mirrors not sure whey they would fit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd go with #1, even though you don't have a lot of experience. Desire will carry you thru. If all that is missing is the engine and transmission, you could easily get it on the road and use part of your budget for tools. Engines and transmission are cheap and easy to install. The earlier wiring harnesses are relatively simple. SU carbs are easier to deal with than EFI. But as stated above rust is the issue. You could easily eat up your whole budget dealing with rust. Last but not least, a clean 240 will always be more valuable than 260s or 280s.

if they are truly perfect, the 10k would account for any rust removal that may have been done. You can find deals at your price range, you just have to keep looking and pounce on it when it comes up. And be prepared to drive, I drove 8 hrs (one way) to get mine. I had a LOT of pic of the underside before committing to it.

3 most important things No rust No rust No rust Unless you are a good metal fab person anyway. Engine and trans are not that hard to come by. 1000$ would prob get you both with some shopping around. I like EFI but some folks don't, just depends on your level of understanding electrical stuff. 280z is a heavier, car, better value since 240's tend to be much higher in prices for good ones. That being said I like the heavier 280z since I think they tend to be a bit more comfortable. South florida means AC is a must unless you like to sweat. In that case a 280z is much more desirable since its AC is more refined and just works better. 240's it was an after thought, 280's was designed for it. Less customized the better, unless you know the guy that did it, did it right. Stock will be better since you can use the FSM to trouble shoot. Manual is more generally more desirable, but if you had a nice auto rust free, that would be ok, if you want it manual it can be converted. on last thing, NO RUST (actually less rust, no such thing as no rust) see if you have a Z guy near you to look at the known trouble spots.

Got the air cleaner back from Powder coating. Installed loosely just to see how everything looks. Meant to comment on the wires above. I thought that I would need to make a new radio and antenna harness after pulling these two cables off of the dash harness. I lucked out however, as these were the cables that were the original radio leads. Somewhere out there is an original radio with the cables cut off. The new OEM radio just plugged right in making things easy.

Thanks MrArnett. Reading their website I'm more inclined than before towards the tight fitting indoor fleece cover. Thanks again, can not read enough anout the Z and the goodeaZe that are available. Cliff

A donor is the best bet

I just located my invoice: from CarCoverUSA, Covercraft Custom Fit, 1971 Datsun 240Z, Base with one mirror pocket, Polycotton PD gray, size G2. $154.95 + $10 shipping (2017). Hope this helps.

Cliff, Something to consider is the absence of a pocket for the driver-side mirror. It clearly is not there with the black, stretchy cover and you can see in the pic the tension on the mirror. I would avoid this cover for that very reason. The BRE cover does not show a pocket and there is no mention of one in the description. The cover looks to be loose enough to not put pressure on the mirror. My cover is a single-layer fabric, indoor only, specifically designed for the car with a mirror pocket. I seem to recall they offered a choice of none, one, or two pockets. The fit is excellent, it follows the lines perfectly, nothing loose to flop around. Unfortunately, I do not recall the mfr. Jim

There's some bored SOBs in this world. Changing the wheels out in the comments?

They took my sanitized version....glad they did.

I have missed a bad uni-joint by checking for play with a really big screw driver. The play is minimal and depends on where the neddle contacts the spider when testing. The neddles could be on a ridge of the vertical lines. I think that is what happened to me when I missed the bad joint I had in an Escort. Finally changed it and click sound was gone. It was half full of vertical lines on two of the spiders pegs. https://www.howacarworks.com/transmission/how-to-check-u-joints Here are two screenshots of the spider pegs. Note on the second screenshot, the peg on the top side of the photo has the lines on the driven side and the bottom peg doesn't have them on the non driven side.

If I were going to replace the springs I would do it when I did the struts. Although the bounce in the rear probably has nothing to do with the springs. Struts should help that. Most people change springs fo a slightly lower stance. I would suggest Eibach progressive springs. Just be sure whatever fluids you try are safe for yellow metals!

Jeff, That gear stick looks awfully, er, long.... (said the actress to the bishop). Is it in fact from a Skyline, like your steering wheel?

Good to know it all sounds normal. I just took it on it's first spirited shakedown run and it is such a blast to drive. The steering is pretty twitchy at high speed on the dodgy country roads, but the tramlining is to be expected with the width of the wheels and the camber it has. Overall, I love it ?

Yup, I'm an electrical engineer. And I don't usually read the directions either.

Great... now I have six more to go...

Bless you on the shingles! I've had that, no fun at all! Getting the rails adjusted properly in the doors is a big part of the window regulators and not overly worn or broken parts. The car sounds good and I didn't hear any worrisome noises.

The great news is that the driveline is done. Engine and transmission bolted in, rear end bolted in and driveshaft installed. So much relief and satisfaction today. Now on to all the fun and not so fun stuff. I will button up some of the plumbing for the AC and the heater lines, route some lines for the speedo cable etc. I will leave the wiring of the motor for a while. Once I’m done playing with the engine bay I will get going hardcore on the final body work and metal repairs. Time to get serious!

@kats Don't you have room for just one more? ?

It'll get shinier the more you do, duh... Is that the OE #903 I think, red? Here's your car's step by step from the one of the best.

Jeff, Congrats on getting it registered!!!. Now the real fun begins. There is nothing like the roar of a triple carbbied L-6. Do you ever intend to take it to a track day? That is where you car really get a feel for what these cars are capable of. They are just shear joy to drive hard on a track. Enjoy!! Marty

Congrats! Does your face hurt from that constant SMILE as you're going through the gears? ?

A good cheap way to keep trash out of your carbs. This is for the larger fuel line on 280s, he uses a G3 but on a 240 the G2s work better. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

Welcome to the forum. Don't know you paid for it, but looks like a gem definitely worth keeping in stock condition. Did old lady down the street give you any specific reason for the car's decades long hibernation? My guess is the 3rd gear syncro was going out and her husband never got around to addressing it. It might worth opening the gearbox and taking a look. I use to live in Denver off of 6th and Quebec back in the early 1990s, and recall seeing a red 240Z in the area. Maybe it was this one.

Hi @jonathanrussell, yeah I compared to Panasports, Rota, and Konig's. The VTO wheels are very nice option at a medium price point. No real complaints from the shop on mount/balance. From what I can tell, the wheels looked like they balanced up just fine with a minimal amount of weights.

Attended a nice small car meet today.

Taken with a 110 camera by a 12 year old at Elkhart Lake/Road America in the early 80’s.

I think it sold for around $1,500 USD a couple of years ago. Not a bad price really, considering what some are asking for second hand ones these days.

Hi Patcon , if it is cheap, I would buy it . But currently 3.5 million JPY ( 32000 USD ) is the price .I can’t afford it. Kats