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That Ozzy Guy
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Captain Obvious
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kats
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Zed Head
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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/30/2019 in Posts
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5 pointsOnce the shell was complete and back in my garage it sat untouched for a whole year. Since then progress has happened in short bursts but the latest one has been very productive and long. I always beat myself up for not doing more but I am pleased with how it's turning out. Here's my apprentice testing the steering.5 points
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3 pointsAhhhh, the swiss cheese car! Bless you for taking this on! I went back and looked at the first pages of pictures. The car has come a long way and looks great! There were a lot of folks saying five years ago you would never recoup your investment but I think that math has changed in the last 5 years. I seriously think these super low numbers cars are, or will be soon, 6 figure cars. Congrats on getting through paint. Now the fun starts3 points
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3 pointsIt's absolutely disgusting how good this car has turned out. Shame on you! Haha. A real credit to your George. Especially given all your new responsibilities in life. Hat tip.3 points
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3 pointsHi , I have picked up my car , and the seats were beautifully done , I am so happy with it . Mr. Sudo made them look early type , fat seat back . And also he put his hand work for my 240ZG’ s seat bottom . Only RHD bottom have it’s center portion replaced . I can’t tell which one replaced viewing from a few feet away. Kats
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It's on the edge of being a 72 if it was built in 10/71. What does the title show? "Better off" depends on what your plans are. If you're going to flip it then there's a bunch of options. The resto-mods seem to be doing well. If you're going to keep it and drive it then whatever you want to do is best. A "Series 2" with Series 1 parts is still a Series 2. I don't think that anyone will think that you're "ruining" an early Z whatever you decide to do. You'll be saving a Z if you get it back on the road.3 points
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2 pointsYour second picture indicates to me that it isn't a piece off of your Z. Perhaps the tool fairy had something to do with its appearance - hence the dime.2 points
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2 points@nix240z , thanks Steve , the blue seats now got your seat bottom bolster, looks Fantastic and installed just like an original !! The picture which shows the blue interior used for measurements is excerpt from the video of Nissan motor company. My blue is a little bit greenish , the color was arranged to achieve matching other aged interior trims . Kats
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2 pointsHaha!! My engineering sense tells me that the boundary condition would be when/if the pendulum ever reaches forty-five degrees to horizontal. Beyond that, it would be unrecoverable because the force pulling down would be greater than the force you could ever create even if you moved it laterally at infinite speed. At least that's what the vectors in my head tell me. And you're right! It's beer time!! Right now! Good night folks!!2 points
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2 pointsNice shot. Don't forget to take a matching, 'After' picture when the car is finished.2 points
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I originally owned my first Z car, a 1996 300zx, back in 2004. Later around 2006, I picked up a 260z and started working on restoring it. Life got in the way and we had a big move to Texas and I sold the 260z. I almost bought a really clean silver 240z that was on eBay in 2007. I was wanting a neat car to daily drive. That fell through and now 12 years later I was on the hunt for another car. I really wanted the earliest 240z I could find that was in reasonable condition for a full restoration. I live just North of Houston and found several cars for sale locally. The problem is these cars were very rusty. I mean I can do body work and sheet metal replacement but I didn't want to spend 5 years redoing the body. As luck would have it I found a really nice example on craigslist a couple of states away. I made the deal over the phone last Thursday, drove up Friday, grabbed the car Saturday and headed back home. I'll document the restoration through pictures and video and put it up on my youtube channel. I believe 52519 to be built in 10/71 ?, making it a series 2 car. It appears from items in and on the car it was last driven in the early eighties. Story was the guy I bought it from found several of them in a field back 5-10 years ago. He parted out the rusty ones and kept this one for himself. The car has sat under cover behind his shop since then. The curious thing is that it has Series 1 back glass, round tops, series 1 seats, and kidney bean wheels. I'm assuming that these were period modifications back in the 70's and maybe the back glass was replaced by a dealer that had series one glass left to sell? Am I better off putting it back to series 2 spec or leave it mid 70's period correct with the early series one parts? I don't want to kill 5-10k of the value if I should put it back to full series 2 specs. Here it is as found. I have all the original sheet metal and the car looks very rust free! Also has the dealer installed AC, with the York compressor.
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Sorry for the delay in response. I did not have to do any heavy duty bending. My lines we a good fit. It did take quite a while to get all of the lines lined up properly.1 point
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1 pointHave you tried to get the ZCCA to recognize Classic ZCar Club as a club? The clubs listed are members of the ZCCA. If you would like, I can put you in touch with Chris Karl. He's used to me bugging him about such things.1 point
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1 pointI ran across this, so thought I'd share. https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/pts/d/tampa-datsun-l28/6860205308.html1 point
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This is the way back burner project, but looks like Miguel has been busy at the body shop. Nice to see some progress.
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1 pointFor the bumper conversion you could buy a set of after market bumpers from futofab or acompany in Vietnam are selling them too. You will need an airdam or modify the 280Z grill. Check this thread for the Vietnam bumpers. Someone here is selling a set on this site atm. www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60079-ss-bumpers-from-vietnam/?tab=comments#comment-549680 I converted mine to the 240Z bumpers and fabricated my own brackets.1 point
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1 pointThanks Chris , I like it too . Here is a quiz , Who said “ let’s shave the meat here “ of the early seat back ? #1 Mr . K #2 Interior designers #3 Kaku - U member (test crew of 240Z in US and Canada in late 1969 ) Mr . Sudo always says “ the seat which I make is not original, but I try to make it look original. Also I add pads and change tension of springs etc etc , these work will definitely give more comfortabl hold for a driver / a passenger. I think the modification of a later slim type to transform to an early fat type was a challenging task , this had never done before for Mr . Sudo . Pleas see attached pictures, the shape is different, and now I feel very natural that my 03/70 240Z has a pair of an early type seats . I have bought a beige rubber band for the seat bottom, but this time I didn’t intend to supply it because Mr. Sudo ‘s band is very attractive for me . I will not take my blue 240Z for The judged car show anymore , and I think I can make it original look using the rubber band anytime . Kats
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1 pointMy son who recently graduated from VT went through that exact same thing. There was one class that was questionable up to the end and nobody could be 100% sure until the diploma arrived in the mail. Hope it all works out!!1 point
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1 pointHey Kats, let me know if you have any old blue seat material you don't need afterwards? I would like it for HS30 01415 ?1 point
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Cleaning and sealing the tank would be a good move. I've done a few and had good results. On the filler hose in your picture, is that moisture on the end by the clamp? If it's an old hose could it be you just need to replace it? They do tend to get hard with age and crack on the ends.1 point
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Mike I have one that you might be able to us. I go digging for it tomorrow.1 point
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1 pointI also believe that the original ignition modules are looking for the negative to positive going transition. And as Zed Head mentioned, if you get them hooked up backwards, you end up with a lot of spark scatter and unpredictability. It's because you are spending a whole lot of time in the transition zone with a slow changing signal. Kinda like a very slow ramp on a CMOS input. They don't like it and can go indeterminate. You want the slope as vertical as possible and if you get it hooked up backwards, it can go metastable. The only predictable area is physical transition when the reluctor stops approaching and starts retreating. At that point, the magnetic field change reverses, and the induced current will reverse as well. And... If that's not all... (we talked about the amplitude before being proportional to the speed of rotation) When designed correctly, the signal slope at the transition point is relatively unaffected by the rotational speed unlike the slope elsewhere which is very dependent on rotational speed. If I haven't beaten this to death yet, here's a pic showing the waveform with the polarity switched. Note that the important positive going transitions are that flat indeterminate area with almost zero slope. Bad. What you really want is infinite slope on the positive going transitions. Here's the wrong polarity: And here's what the waveform should look like. Note that the positive going transitions are the vertical slope areas. Correct polarity:
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could be pinhole leaks, or leaking from somewhere else and working its way to a low spot. I pulled my tank and had it professionally cleaned out and sealed. pretty expensive, IIRC he cut it open over the center of the tank to sand blast it clean (no other access) then coated inside. Other problem areas can be a bad sock or what ever is connected to the pickup tube, holes in the pickup tube sucking air. IIRC it was a franchise "tank re nue" or something like that. No leaks or any other issues since then. I also install a Pre filter, it was a large metal type that was designed to be used in front of the fuel pump.1 point
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1 pointThis may help: https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/76816-oil-pan-removal-280z.html1 point
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1 pointI disagree. I know it's all past news now and doesn't even matter, but I would have done it differently. I would have ignored the motor, the drive amp, and all the rotational stuff at the left end of the track. I would have also ignored the viscous damping. Focus on the forces required to keep the pendulum vertical. Write those equations first in a perfect simplified world and then once you have that part done add in the complexity of the damping and a rotational drive. But to start, assume linear motion, frictionless surfaces, and no damping. First task is to just keep the pendulum upright. Once you have that, add in the other factors one at a time.1 point
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1 pointSome questions are meant more for testing the thought process than getting the right answer. It might have been an impossible task from the beginning. She could have simplified one of the complications by chocking the wheels. Tried to find an old Gary Larson cartoon about cows and physics but found this one instead.
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1 pointSorry to hear that. Since you came to us two days before it was due, you were clearly desperate. (As evidenced by the fact that you came to us! ) Well it at least sounds like the grades going into that project were good enough such that even a poor grade on that one, there was enough cushion to maintain a passing grade for the semester. Hopefully that's the case. The wording of the assignment made it sound like it was a group project... Was there input from other team members? Or despite the description, was it an independent effort?1 point
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1 pointIf you plan to "stay somewhat stock" I wouldn't spend to much time trying to figure out how to fit a 6 speed. It's just not worth it. Look for a 280ZX coupe with a "close ratio" 5 speed and grab the R200 diff while you are at it. The 5 speed in the 280ZX coupe is known as a close ratio and the diff has 3.7 or 3.9 to 1 ratio which makes a nice sporty combo in the S30 models. You will need to find a donor 280Z for other parts. The diff in your automatic 280Z is a R180 with 3.545 to 1 ratio. It will work fine, but it's a little high for the close ratio and slow of the mark. It's is the standard diff ratio for the "wide ratio" 5 speed in the 280Z and 280Z 2+2. See document for the different FS5W71B transmissions. How to identify - F5W71B Wide and Close ratio transmission (2).pdf1 point
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1 pointJust for fun here's a picture of the 1st shipment of parts from Nissan.
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1 pointYou are so lucky Kats! You make us very happy with these posts.....and a little jealous! Keep it up!1 point
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1 pointI have used plastic media exclusively for many years. It is as light as a feather so can be easily removed from nooks and crannies using compressed air. Soda, when the residue isn't completely removed, can cause issues and is denser than plastic making the bits a problem to remove from the recesses. Sand, nothing but problems, don't go there.1 point
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0 pointsHmm, they didn't have an option to choose "Classic Zcar Club" for club affiliation... ?0 points
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