Leaderboard

I thought someone else was Captain Obvious! ?

Where is the Captain when you need him..... Probably out somewhere in Philly enjoying a steak and some micro brews ....

And here...

Get another gauge, even a HF cheapy, or a loaner from OReilly Auto, and confirm the high pressure readings. Stick your finger on the port that the FPR is connected to. You should feel the vacuum. Try another port. There are a couple that are not necessary for the engine. The heater control port, and the charcoal canister purge port, for example. Your collection of things to do is too big, I think, and a bit unfocused. Some of the things suggested to inspect will actually make the engine run lean. Vacuum leaks won't make it run rich. You can see what the AFM vane is doing by watching the counterweight under the black cover. You can also control it by moving that weight while the engine is running. So if you just want to hear it run leaner move the weight more closed. The cover just pries off by hand, there are no clips or fasteners. Just stuff I would do.

Huh? Someone say cheesesteak??? I've been casually watching the thread, but didn't want to have too many cooks in the kitchen. But since someone promised cheesesteaks... My thoughts are that you guys are getting out in the weeds with the stuff like leaking EGR valves, bent AFM vanes and brake booster issues*. Of course, all that stuff could need some attention too, but I think you need to focus here first: The OP measured his fuel pressure and it was too high. Then he replaced his fuel pressure regulator with a brand new one and it was STILL too high. In fact, the new regulator behaved exactly like the old regulator. That's something that needs to be figured out first and it doesn't sound like it's the regulator. The 40 psi too high with the pump running and the engine off could easily just be gauge error. I'm not too concerned about the difference between 40 and 36 with the engine off, but the second sentence...... "Fuel pressure while idling is 40 psi as well"? The engine will drown at that pressure. So I would pose the question to the collective... Other than a problem with the regulator itself, what could cause the fuel pressure in the rail to be way too high while the engine is running? Return line plugged? Too much static pressure in the tank? *About the weeds... The brakes feel pretty much normal, so there may be some leaking at the booster, but it's not catastrophic. The EGR valve might be stuck open a little and leaking some exhaust past, but that would cause it to run lean, not rich. The AFM vane bent a little wouldn't cause the FPR to be non-responsive. And the water temp switch... The engine is designed to run relatively well with the switch in either position. Just with lower emissions on one position or another depending on the temperature.

Cruise is nice and lean...I ordered 65F12 jets to try out. The 70F9's ran too rich and cruise. Idle is currently 12.5 or so. I can try adjusting the timing. Got partway though installing the 35 chokes. I'll report back.

when you are ready.... test yours if its defective you can try this

So, at this point the next step is to pick up a vacuum gauge and check the intake manifold vacuum going to the FPR? I think their vacuum gauge is like $15 bux, then 20% off. If so, I'll be at harbor Freight first thing in the morning. I'm going to go sulk and watch Barret-Jackson replay from earlier today.

As Zed said, there are many possibilities....... the pcv hose, egr area, injector seals etc. Its a sealed system, good news is, if its a big leak - easy to track down and find...

Pretty sure that you saw a pressure drop with vacuum in your earlier tests. You just have to break this down in to its pieces. The gauge, the FPR, the flow path, blockages, etc. No offense S30Driver, but his baseline setting isn't even right. Vacuum comes next...

There are many possibilities for running rich. The opposite of assuming is confirming. Or pretty close anyway. Assuming is bad, confirming is good.

Thanks! So I don’t know but I have quite a few hours into it (including some “grrrr-just walk away time”) so I imagine it wouldn’t be cheap.

I hear you, I spent a year working for Husky Oil in the Cold Lake area and during Maple Leaf days they would come over just above the tree top, one chasing another and just scare the *#$@ out of us.

That and the 120mm artillery firing a couple km’s away mixed in with 120mm leopard 2 tank rounds running level five ranges on top of 500lb jdams being dropped by jets.... ...it’s a noisy place!

View Advert 280z mechanical clock For sale is a nice 280z mechanical clock . This clock was working when I received it and has been keeping decent time for the last month. The plating on the housing is very good, I polish the lens, and re-blacked the set knob/mounting bracket. The clock number plate is for a 75/76 280z , but I will change it for a 77/78 280z. Actually the only difference between the years was the number plate. Price is $145 + shipping. Thanks for looking Ron Advertiser zclocks Date 04/12/2019 Price $145.00 Category Parts for Sale

Just got buzzed by an air jockey in a CF18 Hornet, 30 feet over my tank park. I should be pissed, but it was kinda cool...!

Agreed- and the refresh is decent but not excellent so that seems really strong at 60...

Cant say about the oil, but I've read accessing the fill bolt on our differentials is a real pain. Make sure you can remove/access the fill bolt before draining the old oil

Thank you guys. I ended up fixing this issue by replacing the wheel cylinder. next up is changing out the differential fluid. I bought Mobil 1 75w-90. I didn’t find much info about this on the internet for our diffs, but should this work fine or should I return it and go with Redline?

Got the radiator re-cored with a heavy duty 3-row core. Installed radiator, fan clutch and fan. Also cleaned up fuel pump and installed that. I am picking up the hatch tomorrow, so figured I would put in the hatch weather stripping. My favorite part of dointg the weather stripping is peeling the glue off of my fingers afterwards....very entertaining. Ordered the engine compartment braided hoses from Jay at jdm-car-parts.com. Those should arrive in the next day or two. Also cleaned up the electrical harness. Will install that once I get the new harness firewall boot.

I’ll write up something when I get back. Doing all of this by mobile phone right now and it’s not so easy to write a novel. Haha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When you tighten the control arm (AKA transverse link) bolts the inner sleeve of the rubber bushings gets locked. Then when you drop the car the bushing is twisted and holds the car up. You're supposed to have the weight of the car, and two people (nobody does this part), inside before you tighten the bolts. I've thought of this before, but don't think the bushings would take it for long, but a person could "artificially" lower their car, by overloading it then tightening the bolts, if they have stock Nissan rubber.

a few pics... after replaced roof skin... multi layers of metal.... sunroof skin out... drill spot welds from top lead front pillar.. donor roof ... drill spot welds from bottom/inside on this one. after.....

When the car was under restoration, a few things were not correct like a water pump ( for GTR ) , an engine block ( must be silver ) and an oil filter was for non- cooler type . I had changed them as you know , and the parts which shown I attached pictures are going to be on my spare S20 . And some of you may remember Mr. Takei , a chief engineer of developing Europe S30 team . He drove through Europe with his freshly rolled out Euro 240Z after finished his work , that was in April to September 1971 . After he returned, he reported to Dr . Nakagawa like this , “ Japanese automotive technology is far behind from which Europe has , I think 15 years behind “ Then Dr. Nakagawa said to him “ you go to Europe again and learn from them “ The picture was taken Luxembourg. courtesy Nostalgic Hero extra edition No. 564 Kats

Lash pads can kick out from over revving, poor valve adjustment, weak spring causing valve float, or because its Tuesday. Loosen the rocker arm, reinstall the lash pad, and adjust the valves.