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I picked up an old, never mounted Kamei front spoiler yesterday, no idea how old it is, seller said it's from the 70's. The card and install instructions look very old but it's in great condition, it even came with stickers!

Almost done. Infinitely better than what I have on the car now!

I don't know what your experience is but the repair on your blue 70/240z will be considerably more involved than just replacing the quarter panel and if not done right the first time will really bring down the value of the car. The damaged area extends from the D/S rear corner diagonally across to the P/S B pillar just behind the door and may have bent the subframe that the P/S rear suspension hangs from. It's a big job that really should be handled by a body shop that specializes in frame straightening, some of the newest systems have racks that can bring a car back to spec with in a couple of millimeters. Other than the rear corner damage the car is a gem just waiting to be polished, if the engine matches and you weren't on the other side of the continent I would give you $5,500 without hesitation, it has great potential.

It's a bit " crunchy "

I wouldn't be surprised if the car was worth $5,500. If it is truly rust free, I would rather deal with the quarter damage than lots of rusty metal!

Take $2000 cash with you and offer $500 first

75 or 76. Look at the identification plate in the drivers door jamb area. It'll have a manufacturer date.

Negative. Not bad.

We will be test fitting the new speaker panel samples soon. I will provide an update once we make any necessary adjustments and they are ready for production. Stay tuned!

I'm stuck indoors until some rain comes through this evening and washes that stuff away for a day or two. Lesson I learned the other morning, do not take Benadryl in the a.m.

Here in Arizona too... Wet winter. My allergies are killing me ATM.

Jeff, The rear wheel studs are longer than the fronts. Replace the fronts with the longer rears (order a new set of rears to use in the front). Here, people also use the wheel studs from the Nissan Quest - they are longer and have a knurl that fits. I'm sure there are also any number of threads with info on how people have gotten their wheels to fit here, and on HybridZ...

I know you were kidding Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The other end of the open end wrench has a ratchet Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting - but makes sense . Cold engine needs more fuel.

Go for it Kats!

Sounds like a steak I had at my brother in-laws .... indistinguishable lump...

Occupation: retired engineer ... Good points and it would be easy to replicate but I’m not too worried about it. The rocker also has a internal brace with a heavy bead to box it and add strength. (I haven’t made it yet). The main reason I did it is that all the layered metal in that corner is a brutal rust trap. It was an almost indistinguishable lump when I first cut into it.

if time permits, ill fix the quarter and throw a nice paint job, put some nice clean interior and finish it off and sell it for much more than that. i have to agree that i would rather stay away from rust than a simple quarter panel replacement. it just takes time and some money. the car is very solid. reason as to why i purchased it.

She needs work!

Got the driver’s side fitted, trimmed and cleco’d in .... Decided to butt the inner rocker to the wheel well instead of tapering it in (factory). ... vs factory taper .... And test fitting the outer rocker and wheel housing (Tabco) and DIY lower door patch ... So much cleaner ... Feels like progress!!! ?

I put the reworked donut spare on and drove around a little bit. Nothing scrapes. Now don't get me wrong... The car feels terrible with that spare installed and the steering wheel doesn't even sit straight, but it would get me to the next exit in the event of a flat. And it looks so sexy!!

A dent? "Is she pretty?" "She's reeeaal nice"

So after a year and a half waiting for Dave at AZC to finish making the rear brake bracket with integrated park brake, I have moved on. Dave has been promising me it would be ready “in two more weeks” for 18 months. I have installed the rear bearings and seals and have decided to move ahead with a solution from Silvermine Motors. Edan and I have been in discussion as to how to solve the park brake issue for all the AZC customers out there. I am going to create a separate thread and detail the process of adapting the Silvermine kit to the AZC kit. I will be keeping all the rotors and calipers from AZC, but will be using the park brakes, adapter plate and custom emergency brake cable from Silvermine. In the meantime I put the hubs together as, unlike AZC, the hubs don’t need to be split in order to install the Silvermine adapter plates.

@KONI Lee just let me know that the 9/74-78 260Z-280Z KONI Sport Struts have arrived in the U.S., are being processed, and will be on the way to California soon. We want to publicly thank KONI for meeting their production estimates. We wish more of our manufacturers were like this! 280ZX owners, we believe the original estimates (240Z before end of March, 280Z before the end of April, 280ZX before the end of May) are still good. We're glad KONI is spending as much time as necessary to make sure they get the 280ZX rear spring seats/shocks correct. They obviously take a bit more work than the simple early cartridges, and getting them right sure seems to be one of KONI's prime directives. Great job KONI, and thanks Lee !

If anyone is interested in this Z, I can take a look at it. It's in my side of Portland about 10 mins. away.

So the compression check will be a solid indication as to whether or not you need to do a total rebuild. If compression is good maybe just gaskets, seals and a head cleanup might be all you need. If compression is low then maybe “while you in there mentality makes sense”. Rings and bearings for sure. My situation leads me to a total rebuild. I have 2 cylinders in the low 140’s. They should be around 170. I have a loose timing chain (stretch or the tensioner is bad.) I can hear it slapping the cover, and freeze plugs that leak due to corrosion. So I’ve decided to do the whole engine. The other side of this coin is this. You have the engine out, all the accessories removed might as well go all out and get it all done. I can appreciate this approach. I don’t like unfinished work or unknowns. If you have the time, I’d lean toward a total rebuild. The cost isn’t much more and you’ll learn a heck of a lot. As far as cams go. I’ve never been a big fan of turning a nice engine into a poorly idling engine that is just fast and not a great car to daily drive. I want a little more power but I don’t want to sacrifice a smooth running reliable engine either. They run best the way to were born minus a few minor things. Consider finding a ZX engine with a P79 head, of just the head. You’ll get some extra power and not radically change the original design. I got my ZX engine for $400, with a warranty. Start looking at car-part.com for engines around you. My 2 cents. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No inner or outer rockers, that's a view that you don't see very often. Kent, before you put that rocker back together, could you possibly layout all the panels on the floor next to the D/S door opening kind of like an exploded diagram and post a photo of it? That photo would be a useful addition to the Knowledge Base section of the forum as a quick reference.

We're having a "pollen blizzard" around here so I abhor nature at the moment. If only I had a Kirby salesman to vacuum this crap out of my life...

From the vault this time

From Holland to the US and down to Australia. Thanks Koni and MSA.

This 80000 USD Z432 needs a set of magnesium wheels for 10000 USD , then it is still good price compared to when this car was first sold in the US . Mike , you can make it perfect using early Fairlady Z parts from your parts shelf . Oh , a set of Z432 coil spring is now on sale at Yahoo Japan . An exhaust manifold will show up some time . An aluminum radiator is bit hard to see but , It is not impossible. Kats

Should have bought this one. Never thought it would go so cheap. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

No you couldn't. Besides not having rear defroster elements, this hatch glass is the clear (untinted) version. No amount of scraper blades and acetone will remove the tint within the glass. Besides being used on early North American cars, the clear glass with no defroster was used on the Japanese market base model Fairlady Z-S. Most Japanese buyers opted for the upgraded Fairlady Z-L model though, so the glass is pretty rare. Not sure it's worth $2k, but maybe to the right person trying to restore a car that originally had this type of glass. I found a clear hatch glass on ebay several years ago for much less and bought it as a spare for my low VIN cars. Hopefully I'll never it but it's nice to have a spare just in case.

Wow. Good luck to him! That's got to be a rare bird for the person who just has to have the real thing. Seems to me that I could pretty much "convert" my 77 glass to 69/70 JDM glass with a scraper blade and some acetone...