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Ha----Thanks Site! The promo check is in the mail. Be warned--you're stepping into @S30Driver domain. Rubber from Precision, no matter where you get it, represents the best value "all in one kit" in my experience, but with several big caveats. My opinions are based on trying to do it only once for the next 40+ years and to me originality is a big issue. 1. Door seals---original Nissan/ Datsun---nothing else comes close for fitment--these will cost you dearly IF you can find them. 2. Inner hatch seal---same as above---too important to keep fumes from the cabin and it is such a convoluted profile that I don't want any issues--still available if you are diligent. 3. Windshield-----same as above---too important to use anything else, even though they are very expensive. 4. Hatch----same as above---- and still in good supply at a nearly reasonable price. All of the other seals from Precision fit well enough to do their intended job (IMHO) and fitment is not as critical.. I've been tempted to try out the complete kit from http://vintagerubber.com/datsun-240z-full-restoration-seal-kit/. They offer seals for all the Datsun/ Nissan collectibles---not just the 240/260/280z. ( @Patcon---the 510 goon wagon) Their kit is 3+ times as expensive as the Precision brand, but it is even more complete and supposedly they stand behind their product. That said, they may actually represent the best value. Of course you will need tons of small bits from ( @nix240z ) Steve Nixon at www.240zrubberparts.com . That gentleman has been a godsend to the z community by providing items that no one else will ever produce!

Thanks, that's the car alright. Come May when I go back north I'll post a picture of it in the concourse at Steamboat. Did you ever go to the races in Steamboat? RMVR got vintage street racing started back up after a 6 year hiatus in 2017 in Snowmass, CO the 2nd weekend following Labor Day. We went that year, but missed 2018. We hope to be back for 2019. We get a condo inside the track. The cars start practice runs at about 09:00 so that's when we mix up Bloody Mary's and walk outside to watch the cars run, what a blast! Here's a shot from the races, a 280 at the show that came up from Denver and my grandson and granddaughter being studly sitting in little formula cars at the show..

I was a member of the Z Car Club of Colorado (ZCCC) back then. I believe 240Z on the far left of the photograph belonged to Larry Hutfles. The picture was taken back in around 1992.

Seeing as I am a sucker for Datsun esoteric minutiae, here is something for y'all. Step lights were offered rarely on a 240z. How about step lights for a 260z or early 280z? The top panel in the first picture is a 240z with a light cutout of about 3 1/2" X 1 1/2 inches. Below the top panel in the first foto is an early 280z door panel with the same looking type of cutout measuring about 3" x 1" . The second picture shows the location of the cutout (behind the window crank). I searched far and wide for a part number or illustration and found...nuthin'. Is this one of those phantom non- existent Datsun parts?

Slight diversion today. Had to rescue a damsel in distress....

weird, all my dabs are rust colored?

i did all of the grounds and connections inside the engine bay.. need to go over the passenger footwell, fuseblock , ignitioj box inside the engine bay as well and the ecu.. i am hoping so .. thanjs !

Would you stand under your car knowing the lift was made in a country where it is ok to: lie falsify certification documents not vet supply chain ship parts that are not manufactured correctly? I would build some trusses to put under your car just in case.

What he said.... head off any future electrical problems and it will get you more familiar with your car.

I've been on my car for 5 years now and I still remember/find little things to correct, sometimes 2 or three times but the benefit is that by the third time I'm pretty good at it ?.

Good work! I am betting on that battery terminal. When you have time disconnect, inspect, and clean every electrical connection in your engine bay, in the passenger footwell, on your ECU, at the fuse panel (including fuse holder tabs), and ignition box.

I just installed mirrors on mine in January. With a combination of extensions and U-joints, contorted fingers, choice curse words, and eventually some band-aids, I installed them without removing the window frame or glass. It can be done, but I don't know if I'd recommend it.

Hello, I was able to fix the battery terminal and the condenser.. drove the car to try and mimic the driving style and no problem.. even was revving as hard as i can and car running fine

I'd go to the closest junkyard if I needed one, no shipping and they are easy to get off most trucks.

I had heard a story a few years back that Vintage was including PRP items in their Z kits due to ongoing mfg. issues with main seals such as doors, windshield, ...etc. Don't know if that was just a rumor but it seems it would be worth raising the question with them prior to placing an order. Don't overlook the Kia Sportage options if spot-on accuracy is not an issue.

Thank @lordkarma88 posting video. This song is currently the most popular song in Japan. @Pmg hehehe, this is his style of singing. example....

Wow thank you so much Mark!! We will take your sample and use it to make a new Jig to make our firewall plates. All our future customers will get the perfect angled firewall plate.

According to the great Racer Brown , it can be as much as one degree of rotation( out of the 360) that the pistons hovers at TDC. The only way to be exact is with dial indicator with the head off. Using a dead stop to get exact TDC can be a challenge in that you might not add and subtract correctly with your degree wheel . And timing can make a huge difference in performance - whether valve or ignition timing .

I've read zcardepot.com has the closest complete set but you need @Zup braided trophy winning advice. Arne has an old thread on this if you google it. Best of luck!

So when I marked the timing wheel etc. I used the chop stick brought the piston to the top of the stroke and then turned it a bit more till it started to drop them marked it between the two. Soooooooo I should be at a good TDC at this point from what I am reading ....right?

Yeah, but it is worth it, I love mine.

Whoever wrote this manual back in the day had a nice understanding of the Z's prospective corrosion spots. There are some places missed, though: lower boxed section at the rear of the front frame rails (behind the T/C rod bracket) underfloor reinforcement rails underside of hatch floor, where the floor meets the rear valence panel inner cavity beneath the rear hatch sill plate full perimeter of the hatch cavity (not just the trailing edge) windshield posts front cowl (esp. along all the seams) In the 1970's, it seems, many of the popular aftermarket rustproofing solutions were flawed by design. Ziebart (a wax-type treatment) was considered the gold standard, but the material apparently dried out and cracked after several years, creating thousands of crevasses and concealed ledges for salt water to lodge in. As a result, the 'rust preventative' became a rust accelerator. IIRC, there was a successful class-action suit and the company went out of business. Another name in the day was 'Bondeco'. They seem to have disappeared, too. Maybe for the same reason (modern wax-type treatments (e.g. WaxOyl) use better formulations and don't seem to suffer from the same problem). Also in the 1970's, old-timers swore by the effectiveness of oil-spraying. Unfortunately, most of the shops that did this were kind of 'rural' and they used old crankcase oil. Not the sort of thing to be spraying onto your brand-new sportscar! We now have RustChek and the like, which use a clean, thin, perfumed oil that does a nice job of creeping into seams. I have a 2006-vintage car that I bought new and had sprayed once shortly after purchase. It's still solid and rust-free (although at least half of the credit for that probably goes to manufacturers' increased use of galvanized sheet metal).

Yes, the yellow dabs are on the suspension from 10/69. One of my cars has red paint on the front in one area. Of course, the springs had paint dabs. All of this has been discussed in the archives. Nice looking car.

I didn't go in the front door. I googled the first part # and added hinge. (82400-21002,hinge) Their site was on the list, clicked on it and the page with that hinge and the price popped up. Mysteriously, there seems to be a Co. in Russia or Ukraine that lists the hinges. Didn't investigate that one.