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Here's a short slideshow of six generations of Z's - all members of the Z Club of Texas, on display at the Dallas Autorama show February 15-17. ZCoT_Autorama_2019_x264.mp4

Panty hose and a vacuum. That sounds like a young mans first girlfriend.

Nude, always nude.

What color and style of pantyhose do you recommend?

Not surprising they are still available---no telling how many hundreds of these are replaced each year from losing the little pins! They may get changed more frequently than oil in the motor! Seems I lose a few to the cracks and crevices every time I remove panels---I can hear them tinkle on their way down in there but can't reach them, so I use the pantyhose on the vacuum cleaner trick. It works!

@240260280z This photo of my 7/70 240z shows what appears to be the same "feature"? No idea of what would be the reason for it.

As pointed out on FB, translating a single Kanji like this is to somewhat miss the point. It reads as 'Ryo', which does translate as 'Dormitory'/'Dorm' in English, but is also a male given name in Japanese (on FB I cited Japanese pro golfer Ishikawa Ryo as an example) so it could very easily have been written by somebody called Ryo or for somebody called Ryo.

Well, I told her this is better than gambling, drinking to excess and all sorts of unhealthy things men do. ;). I need an outlet and turning wrenches is one way. I’ll get a text when I am work in two weeks, it will be pic of the engine in the garage and she’ll say..”what is this”. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Lee: Great to have you here for this discussion. A further comment about our experience with gas pressure shocks several years ago. Front corner weights on the 240Z’s were 562 lbs and 604 lbs for 1972 as an example. (and varied a little 70/71). We measured the load it took to compress the Tokico Gas Pressure Shocks (non adjustable) at 80 psi. at a local machine shop. So it was easy to see that a 240Z with a spring constant of 83 lbs/in wound up sitting about 1” higher after installation. As for taking accurate and comparable measurements - a lot of the people involved are Engineers and pretty picky about accuracy. So lets hope your new offering are closer to the 3 Bar than the 5 Bar. At any rate better to know in advance of installation, so any necessary adjustments to spring rates or installed length can be made ahead of time.

My buddy's 73 has two holes that go through the floor back near the outside seat belt anchors. Is this a "feature"?

The steering rack has plenty of rotation when it is all loosened from the bushings and the stop bracket. Mine is definitely rotated too far up as you can see by the different alignment angles at the knuckle on the 240 and mine.

Well, the Engine rebuild book arrived today. My wife opened the package, “she yells from he door....we got a “Nissan Datsun Engine Rebuild book”. Me: cough cough...okay great. She’s smart she knows somethings in the hopper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think you received the dash intended for my car ?.

I used cotter pins as replacements for the pins. The looped head of the pin sticks out of the rivet and makes it easy to pull out when it's time to pull a panel again. Dennis

Update pics of the fender after sandblasting the lower corner. One or two pin holes and some pitting, but otherwise this is very nice. A fender like this saves you lots of time on body work prep instead of one you have to section in new metal, metal work, etc. --> $250 plus shipping Just as fyi - the problem of rusting through in this area on our Z fenders can be eliminated by altering the back support a bit. Cutting out some of the back support to allow debris and water to drain/fall down, instead of getting trapped and accumulating here is possible without materially altering the strength of the panel. Cut the support for better drainage, sand blast pitted area, epoxy prime or other treatment to seal and you're done.

Oh, those holes. I wonder if those holes were used as an anchor point to affix the chassis on an assembly line jig. This is purely speculation on my part.

Still available from Nissan. The smaller ones behind the tag also.

Might be a good question for Matsuo San.

If you can't find an old 240Z voltage regulator that works or down the road you decide you need more power from your charging system you could go down this road that would allow you to go with a more modern electronic internally regulated alternator. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10b04/12-4067

Couple of recent examples I spotted here in the UK, on original UK market HS30U 'Datsun 240Z' dashes: 'ENG' of course = England.

First A/T in USA arrived in Oct. 1969 ?

I'm away until tomorrow night but I will look at mine when I get back to town.

Mark, can you not loosen the bushing clamps on the steering rack and give the rack a slight twist back to give a bit more clearance?

Well there's another solution that I didn't think about. Way to approach the problem from a different direction! The difference with your and my suggestion is that yours might actually work!

So about my bender... That press brake is only maybe eight inches or so long, but I'm very happy with the way it turned out. I saw the idea on the web and made up the details as I went along. Of course, as with most project, the details are where the magic is. One longer spring I cut into two halves. Two bolts (5/8-11 I think) with the heads cut off for the guide pins. Nyloc nuts (not in pic) to adjust and hold position for different stock thicknesses. I made the bottom die shorter than the top on purpose so it functions like a finger brake with some of the fingers removed. That way I can hang the unbent portion out of the dies and keep a section straight. Here's a pic of most of the parts before final assy: I cut the bolt heads off on the lathe and turned a counterbore shoulder. That way I can press the bolts into the base and the shoulder will make sure they are perpendicular (normal). The shoulder is a little shorter than the base thickness so the bottom is recessed. That way I can tack weld the bolts into place from underneath and the base will still sit flat: I made the dies on my metal shaper. Here's an action shot cutting the first side of the upper die: And here's the two finished. They really should be hardened for longer life, but I'm kinda hoping that with the few bends I make, it'll last long enough without heat treat: So far it's been a great little tool and has enabled me to make such beauties as this: And this:

The best-laid plans of mice and men... I blame @ConVerTT. This is why we don't post pics of all those misfires. Oh, and Murphy is laughing his proverbial butt off at you right now. You know that, right?

Well a new issue has arisen that should be detailed here. The offset firewall plate has another aspect I had not considered. Apparently the steering shaft now contacts the stock motor mounts. The V8 kits obviously use another style of mount and this is not an issue there. I have contacted Edan to let him know. I have a feeling we will need two different firewall plates. One for each motor type in use. Pics below show the contact.

I'm not going to rush and blame the manufacturer here. I am thinking it had to do with the Martian temperatures we have been enduring for the last month. -40 ~ -30 is not going to be helpful when the package gets dropped... If the package was cold and dropped, the packing wouldn't have helped gravity's effect on the blower fan that is suspended by the plastic housing. It would have torn free like the picture shows. That's my thought anyway.

Wow... I'm really outnumbered here. The L28ET is an incredibly stout and reliable engine. At $400 it's an absolute steal! (at $500 it's an absolute steal...) I wish I were in a location that I could pick it up! You don't actually need to do anything to it to get cheap reliable power. If the cam looks good and the engine is relatively clean you're set. The turbocharger is NOT scary - run stock, they last nearly forever. From the factory they run about 7 pounds of boost and at that setting they'll run forever. (most people forget that turbochargers were originally built for aircraft - an avocation where they have to be as simple as possible and extremely reliable...) Run stock, you can drop the engine in with little fuss and you'll have a strong dependable power plant. The stock ECCS engine management system works very well - as long as you keep the engine stock. If you modify, you'll probably have to look at a tunable engine management system. It'll take a bunch of $$$ to craft an N/A engine to come close. The L28ET is cheap power... Also remember that 80% of the L28ET's were mated to an automatic transmission The weak spot: You'll need to focus on the engine (ECCS) harness. BUT, you'd have to do the same with ANY early EFI engine harness! They just weren't built to last this long. Most of the problems are due to oxidized wire and connectors that will skew the information the ECU needs to run the engine properly. A new harness makes a world of difference - that's what NewZed has seen me comment (complain / warn) about. Now... The problem with a turbo engine is it turns many people into boost junkies. That's where the charge pipe, intercooler, blow off valve, bigger injectors, fuel rail, adjustable FPR, bigger fuel pump, new fully tunable engine management system, coil-on-plug, wideband, blah, blah, blah comes from. That's also where you see guys blowing turbos, melting pistons - because they don't know what they're doing. I daily drive mine. Have for the last 9 years.

Theorectically you could multiply the desired dimension by 1.3723 and that would give you the correct value for float setting in water. But I am not sure I did the conversion right... somebody want to check that? C

Zulaytr & Mike B, I have taken the liberty of copying your posted photos, turning them the 'right' way up where necessary, and adding roman alphabet phonetic 'translations' of what I think they say in the hope that it might help us to understand this a little better. Hope that you don't mind. Zulaytr, The Kanji on your dash actually reads as less than 'Spring Time'. In fact, it reads "Haru" - which is indeed 'Spring' as in the season of Spring ( Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter in Japanese would be Haru, Natsu, Aki, Fuyu ) but could easily be part of another word or phrase, or even part of somebody's name......... Unless we saw other examples that identified seasons ( Natsu, Aki & Fuyu ) then I'd hesitate to believe that the Kanji on your dash was reference to a season. If it did, how could that be of use on a production line that was churning thousands of these things out every month? 'Nen' and 'Ne' could easily be two ways of writing the same thing. One is in ( long hand ) Kanji, and one is in ( quicker ) Hiragana, and abbreviated ( ? ). Could they both mean the same thing...... ? Don't know. Finally, 'Kokoro' or 'Shin' ( could be read both ways ) is Kanji, but seems ambiguous. A more formal Kanji character has been roughly scribbled out. Something has possibly been corrected on the component / sub-assembly? A rough translation of 'Kokoro' would be 'heart' ( as in the feeling, rather than the organ ) and a rough translation of 'Shin' ( the other possible reading of this Kanji - although it is actually meaningless when used on it's own ) could also be 'Heart', the abstract feeling rather than the thing. It is not the correct Kanji for the similar-sounding 'Shin' meaning 'new' - which could have indicated a shortened form of a person's name.......... And that's what I have wondered about these in the past; Whether they were scribbles signifying the identity of the person who completed them or 'signed them off' - at whatever stage of the process ( could even be just the sheetmetal frame part......... ). Don't know. Some of them don't seem to fit in as possible names or even nicknames. Interesting that they are situated in a place that is not covered by the vinyl, but is covered by the steering column when the dash is fitted in the car. That must be a clue as to what stage in the manufacturing process these graffitoes were applied, and meant to be seen......... Alan T.