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Lots of little projects over the last few weeks, and a lot of progress made, but this one's all about paint, because I finished sanding and polishing today. Some time around Christmas, it was starting to bother me that the fenders and doors were looking quite a bit better than the roof, rear quarters, and hatch. So I re-sanded and re-polished all of them. They're still not perfect, but they're better than they were and the effort was worth it: The roof; before, during and after: Sail/quarter; before and after sanding: And the hatch: With those done, back to polishing. I found it took at least 3 passes with the red pad and M105 to polish out the haze and most scratches. Red pad gave its all. That was followed up with one pass of the yellow pad and M205. Like I said, I finally got it all done today, and it's nice to be over that hump. Even with the screw-ups. Those screw-ups and some thoughts tomorrow...now I just want a cocktail!

Since these clear vinyl seat protectors are no longer available from Nissan, nor are reproductions available from existing fabricators, I sourced a large quantity of clear vinyl material to fabricate reproductions. These are for the 1969-1971 seats that do not have the recline mechanism. Set of eight (8) as shown in photo, (plus close-up photo) Material is same gauge/thickness as original Photos show: Set of four (4) original, aged and yellowed clear vinyl seat protectors and set of four (4) reproduction clear vinyl seat protectors. . Set of eight (8) reproduction clear vinyl seat protectors - what you would receive upon ordering. The pricing is $38.00 shipped to a CONUS address. Shipping will be via FedEx Express Saver, insured, with tracking. If you are interested in a set, please PM me your full name, mailing address and Paypal address. I will then send you an invoice. Note, these are time consuming to produce. Therefore, I will only send the invoice when the set is available for shipment, maximum 1 week timeframe Thanks, Keith

They clearly belong in the thread about breasts!

I believe this is the correct measurement

I guess you could always stay a little old fashioned with one of these: I'm going with a banana phone:

But zspert, if the pick up tube filter is removed won't I be allowing dirt and other nasty bits to get to my injectors? When our Zs were new they were used almost exclusively as daily drivers but now some 40 years later they lead rather pampered lives as well kept fun cars. I don't know about my readers but my Z is driven about 500 miles per year and kept under a cover in a garage the rest of the time. Also, because my fuel tank went through the Gas Tank Renu process I know with confidence that it began its new life under absolutely the best of conditions. Furthermore, I make it a point to replace my fuel filter every other driving season. No, dirt and other nasty bits in my fuel are just about the last thing I'm concerned about. However, there is an important issue about removing the pick up tube filter that must be considered. The pick up tube absolutely must extend to the bottom of the tank. If it doesn't, and this applies to cars of every color, you may find yourself experiencing an out of gas situation when there are still a couple gallons of gas in the tank. In my next installment I'll go on and on about the main difference between the 240/260 and 280 tanks. Please stay tuned.

Helmet envy! Happy new year to you too!!

There's a couple of things in the article that I find difficult to believe. The vented hood came before FI and the percolation problem was solved with the change to FI.

I found this out the hard way after finding some pristine cards in a 76 model (IIRC, they were much plainer, without the faux wood grain and stitching) to use in my 77, but found they didn't work.

Thank you for the feedback and apologies for the miscommunication. I will adjust the listing accordingly and confirm the date of the door cards following work tonight. Thanks again!

True, the cards change after August 76. My car is an early 9/75 production, so if the cards are from the 75, they should be correct. The later cards had the door locks further into the middle of the door.

@wheee! I recall that the door cards were changed in the transition from 1976 to 1977. The cards pictured APPEAR to be identical to my 1977. The inside door lock location is the key difference. My measurement from the edge of the door card to the center of the lock is 8 3/4". Not that it's any of my business, but would hate for your luck to pay for the parts & shipping all the way up to the great white north and find out they won't work on your car. I see that the OP has some 1977-78 parts (mostly gauges) and may think that all are identical, or possibly the parts came to him without knowing what year they came out of. @OB's 280Z The only gauge I see from a 75 (76) is this one.

The door hinges use 3 bolts to mount at both the door interface and the A-post interface. However, the bolt pattern on the door mount is different from the bolt pattern on the A-post mount. Patcon has correctly directed his comment to member JLPurcell, who had a bunch of special shim plates laser-cut by a local fab shop and had extras left over for sale. It's not clear to me whether he had shims made for both bolt patterns vs. just one of the two. Make sure you get the right type (or just make your own -- not rocket science).

These guys have L&R wheel arches on sale for $57 a piece, Tabco wants $87 and Mill Supply is just down the road from Tabco, they must be getting them from Tabco, no one else makes them. https://www.millsupply.com/auto-body-rust-repair-panels/datsun/

Cliff, don't you think Meth would be cheaper?

Charles and Cody that looks great. I saturate my fresh blasted aluminum with satin clear from Eastwood. I'm always happy with the results, no greasy hand prints after installing. Takes about three soakings with my hvlp gun to get to the soaked level. Won't take no more.

I found a part number for the clips 79907-E4101 Evidently NLA

That rear valance is looking a bit like FrankenZ with all that stitching! I've always been too chicken to try and remove the stainless trim on the rear finisher. I choose to blue tape it for my refinish work. Two sets completed and on the shelf now.

Watch out for the tail width and the bumpers. A 240z I restored had fibreglass quarters installed many years ago and they were wider than stock. The bumper fit very close: I'll have a look for clips.

I finally got Cody to do something today. I am waiting on just a few pieces for the tranny but in the meantime he needs to get the cases clean. This was after oven cleaner Thanks Cliff @siteunseen This was after blasting. We used the pressure pot because it's too big for the blasting cabinet. I need a bigger one... There was an interesting number on the top of the belllhousing He then shot a couple of coats of Diamond clear on it. Hopefully he will do the back half this weekend. In relation to that, does the shifter arm have a slot for the locking bolt to position it? We need to strip the rear case and I wouldn't think the shifter would have to be set in a certain position. I am assuming the rod is notched to allow the bolt to pass beside it and set the arm in a specific position.

Don't know if this will serve as a silver bullet for your problem but should serve as a silver bit of knowledge for all 75-78 Z owners. The following is my experience/ observation after more than 48 years as a Datsun/Nissan mechanic. At the end of the pick up tube inside the fuel tank of the cars in question is a filter. It is a can shaped metal appendage about 2 inches wide and about 2.5 inches high and is perforated. I have a couple of these filters at my shop but am off today otherwise I would have a picture available. Over time these perforations become calcified restricting the flow of fuel to the pump. I have trained my local Gas-Tank -Renu franchise to cut a large hole in the top of the tank to gain access to the filter and remove it. I'll add more info to this post at a later time but my girlfriend is telling me it's time to get ready for the New Year's plunge.

That’s great info I am going to check out there site right away thank you so much zspert!??

I have thought the same, Captain. Having both I think it's the weight difference. The steering wheel on my 240 also seems bigger which makes turning seem easier. My $.02.

I have learned that replacing everything on my 240z takes special fabrication, knowing someone that can help, and luck! ? so thank you once again ??