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Hey guys here's another Caution. Be very careful around heavy metals . This stuff is accumulative in you blood/system and might not manifest itself as serious, but it is . lead and Cad can cause major health issues as well as DEATH and genetic defects.Heavy metals are hard to clear the body. Welding throws off many different gasses as well as soldering, yes soldering! Lead levels can sneak up on you if your shooting , soldering or welding. Wear a GOOD approved mask for welding or soldering. Your lungs will thank you down the road. Short story: When I was in an exhaust shop years ago I saw a guy welding a up an exhaust pipe without eye protection(dark lens). When I ask why he said he couldn't see what he was welding? I thought then I wonder when he'll go blind . Not more than 2 months ago I saw a guy on Utube demonstrating a welder WITHOUT glasses. Also, if you do any sand blasting WEAR a Mask. The silicone in sand and many abrasives can cause silicosis. This is caused by exposure to crystalline silica, which comes from chipping, drilling, or grinding soil, and, granite or other materials. ZC

Delta Cam's is a wonderful business. Ignoring the fact that postal service delivery took 20 days to get there and back, they turned around 132 rocker regrinds in 48 hours (once they got there...) Every one looks like the 12 randomly selected rockers below. They look like they have some kind of coating on them, applied everywhere. Hardening process or the result of a polishing or tumbling step to make them look pretty? I suppose I could just ask...

Gotta love the old roadsters. My early open sports car experiences were driving MGAs and MGBs. When I checked out the Datsun offerings, the salesman said, "Get a 2000. We only sell 1600s to girls". At the time, I was in the Air Force and headed overseas, so no sale. When I got back to the States, no more new roadsters, that's when I bought my Z. Dennis

Getting closer to the finish line Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

These two FS5C71A rebuilt by Mr.Kawashima , one is in my Z432 and the one is taking a rest after driving a few thousand kilometers. I checked the big two nuts , they are rock solid ! Mr. Kawashima tightened them properly. Kats

Yeah , I have never driven FS5W71B , but I can imagine. 5th is one way operating gear , I mean it does not have “ down shift “ , this makes the fift gear less likely worn out than the other gears . So Nissan remain the Porche type synchro for the fifth gear ? Kats

The 240z will be more valuable at 50... wait another year!

Looks like the Golden Gate looking toward the Marin headlands. Series 1 with a “suit” owner. Hope she’s still purring along!

I have decided to sell my 918 Orange 1971 240Z. This is an original restoration with most of the work documented on this website link at: (Unfortunately some of the earlier work on this thread was accidentally deleted by the site admin due to some external spammers) I would consider the car a Category 2 restoration based on Hagerty's scale. This car placed 2nd in the Z car category at the 2016 JCCS which had nearly 50 entrants, arguably one of the most competitive Z car shows in the nation. The car runs great and all electronics work well including an original radio, antenna, wipers and clock (quartz mech) The car has also been featured in the 2018 Fall edition of the GQ style magazine and can be seen at this website: https://www.gq.com/story/datsun-240z-oral-history Many new and original parts on the car. Freshly chromed bumpers and 'Just dashes' dash just to name a few. Rims and hubcaps are epic (they were carefully stored for over 45 years) and are a bit hard to part with. While many parts of the car would be considered condition 1 by Hagerty's, I would consider the paint it's weak link and a category 2 ( I personally would give it a 7.5 or 8 out of 10). It is a beautiful high end single stage paint that could probably use a little more color sanding. On the flip side of this, I was praised by one Concours car show judge on how the paint replicates the original factory paint in its' appearance. Other minor issues would be a gap near at the drivers side door that is a bit wide and the original 47 year old exhaust that sounds a bit like a motorboat at low RPMs. I will also include a new aftermarket (motorsport) exhaust in the sale. Below are some recent pics. Will be listing on BAT soon Many more pictures available upon request Thanks, Rich

This post might help, as it is a lower vin than mine and on the west coast I think it would have none of the emission equipment on it if it is a Canadian UN car. That includes no air pump, no vapor tank, only three holes in the tubing isolators (brake,fuel and fuel return), double grove hormonic balancer, smooth balance tube, no flow guide, no small port on the block vent tube to name a few things. That said if it was brought into Canada via Ont. than it would have all of that and look just like a US car.

The car isn't primed yet. He was trying to wrap up another car that's just about done. I will have primed pics tomorrow. Fenders are rolled and pushed out 3mm for extra tire clearance all while keeping the flat edge! Piston mold is done and ready to send off to CP. He finished doing the port and polish on the intake manifold to match the head and over bored RB26 ITB's. Lastly, I got the N1 R34 GTR oil pump, Spool gears and the Haltech 2500 ECU. I also ordered Tomei adjustable cam gears.

https://driving.ca/auto-news/news/a-very-rare-fair-lady

Well time for another update as its been a couple of months. Sadly the car has been off the road for a little while owing to some teething problems and a couple of planned and necessary tweaks since the last major overhaul. The biggest gremlin that we had been investigating was a severe vibration through the car which occurred at both 60 and 80mph upwards which was really effecting drive-ability. Iain at passion engineering had tweaked the gearbox and diff angles so that they are now within .6 of a degree and we sent the prop off to a specialist near Heathrow as we were both fairly convinced of the cause. We've since had it confirmed that the prop appears to be the cause of my issues for a variety of reasons and we've decided to have a new custom and uprated one made up to the cars exact specs which its currently awaiting to complete the jigsaw so keeping fingers crossed. Also did hot oil changes on both the gearbox and diff now they've been run in on the car to keep everything in order. The car has had various bits tidied up, we've added an extra mishimoto fan on the rad thinking of hot European trips and Le Mans traffic. Engine bay wiring is also getting some attention however the headlight wiring was looking particularly tried and we had been suffering with one of the high beams failing, given the car is driven regularly and at night there's been some work to do. All of the headlight wiring and connections have been refreshed and we've also acquired a plug and play loom with relays incorporated for both the headlight system (big thanks to Dave Irwin), interior lights and taillights from the USA to take as much strain out of the system as possible and hopefully protect the headlight combination switch and fusebox. Some uprated Osram Nightbreaker H4 bulbs have gone in to the headlights at the same time to freshen things up. There's also been some work up front on the chassis to allow the fitment of the uprated ST front anti roll bar to complete the suspension work, sadly some welding was required before bolting into place some reinforced straps over the chassis legs (I think that's right) to mount the anti roll bar off of to keep things in check. The idea being the extra reinforcement will keep things together and reinforce the key areas so that the anti roll bar can do its job effectively without putting any undue stress on the chassis. I'm getting quite conscious of the chassis age and want to try and uprate it where possible in a non invasive way. Triangulated strut braces front and rear are on the long term list in this regard still however money and priorities are constantly changing! Finally I've placed a deposit on a Zstory Race Sport system with JDM muffler for delivery early 2019 to help the engine breath a lot easier. It will be great to get rid of the home made rear section which I'm sure is choking the engine now. Things will likely slow down for a while though as I have to leave the car behind in my dad's safe hands as I head off to Singapore for at least a couple of months with a new job opportunity in the New Year. Only time will tell how fast things will move from here or not, hopefully the car will be back with me again shortly to make use of some of the last dry Autumn days.... IMG_7960 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr IMG_7962 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr IMG_7961 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr IMG_7964 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr IMG_7965 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr IMG_7966 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr

Wait.... "Probably"??? So my non-expert opinion for the rusty input shaft is... I think you're making more out of it than you need to. I wouldn't take anything apart. I'd buzz the input shaft clean with a wire wheel and use a shop-vac to try to keep any debris from disappearing down into the snout. And the little bit that does get down there should be on the dry side of the seal anyway and shouldn't cause much problem. I wouldn't take the tranny apart for that. You don't even know if it works properly. I'd clean it up and put it in the car. Give it a try at speed and see what happens. If the clutch disk fits smooth over the splines, you should be good. And I wouldn't worry too much about the pits on the input nub either. A sleeve bearing is pretty tolerant of that sort of thing. In fact, sometimes they put recesses in surfaces on purpose to try to hold onto lubricant (like your steering rack bushings). I'd buzz the worst of it off carefully with the wire wheel and then sand that down to bare clean metal with some 400 grit and wd-40. Just don't go hard with the wire wheel on that nub or the splines or you could cause some damage. And then use a sleeve style pilot bearing. I wouldn't want to run a needle bearing on that, but I'd be willing to give a sleeve bearing a run there. Of course, all that's just dissenting opinion. I'm cheap and I'm no expert.

Good catch

Yeah, I liked that stand too. I also like the double staked nut. It looks like he added a set screw to the nut. Staked the edge of the nut and then staked the set screw as extra insurance. That's what experience will do for you.

New York auto show 1985

Another good day:

You could also just take an old cloth, drip any kind of oil on it and wipe the bare metal with it, it will keep the rust off for months and is easily cleaned of with thinners or soap and water.

Some of the 600+ plus pictures show before and during rebuild... So, some of what you see might not be finished product. That said, I agree that Motorman's is nicer. The record price for a "stock" 240z on BAT won't stand for long.

I have used "After blast" from Eastwood on clean metal. It has acid in it so it converts the rust and seems to keep it away unless it gets wet with condensation. Ospho would work too

I never want to be critical of someone else's car - critically negative. That's just not polite. So I want to point out some things on the BAT car that I am particularly fond of. I can't stop admiring the construction screws used to mount the fuel filter; mounted over on the side so you can see the custom holes drilled in the shock tower. The battery acid drip marks are to die for! What authentic patina! Like none I have ever seen before. The heater hose firewall grommets are gorgeous! I just can't say enough. Put a reserve on your car, motorman. A big reserve. If that thing can go for $44k.....

Great transmission pictures, Kats! Thanks

I'm admiring Mr.Kawashima's rig for working on the transmission, let alone his work.

Thanks. this will be a big help. I appreciate it.

Thanks for the comments everyone. I will probably leave it here for a couple weeks and after that move it over to BAT as mentioned if it does not sell on this site. I am not really in any rush and wife says I should wait till Spring to sell. I would probably go with a bit lower reserve, but we will see how that goes when we get there. $70/00 sounds pretty good. With all the labor I put into the cars, my wife often jokes that I work for about $0.25/hour. I need to look into this.

japan classic sunday 2018

Closer all the time to having that engine out, piece by piece ...

Got some pics to up load. Will post some more progress photos Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile