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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/20/2018 in all areas

  1. Update : The alternator gods have finally smiled on me today! After much troubleshooting, I decided to verify with the manufacturer the alternator part number and sure enough, the alternator sent to me was the externally regulated one instead of the later internal model. ZcarDepot had put their wrong internal stock number on the box. They agreed to send me a correct replacement unit which arrived today. Installed the new alternator, unplugged the external regulator & jumpered pins 1-5 2-3 on the harness connector ..... no charge output. More vom troubleshooting and after jumpering pins 2-5 only ..... voila ... charge voltage output. Pin 5 is the white black wire going to the alternator L connection, pin 2 is the white red wire on the alternator output battery connection. Ordered a plastic cap to weatherproof my jumper plug but was shipping delayed till Monday. Problem appears to be solved.
  2. https://bringatrailer.com/2018/04/15/were-driving-a-240z-to-road-atlanta-for-the-mitty/
  3. That was the way it was in Portland too. You could have your choice of manual or automatic transmission. That was the extent of ones options. After taking possession of a Z and driving it, the color didn't really matter as much as one thought it would. EVERYONE still wanted one regardless of the color.
  4. Try a half and half mix of say 93 and 110 and then see if your SUs produce the same gray color.
  5. Well I drove the z! She runs a little rough. I think electronic ignition, check timing and fiddle with the carbs are next. Also install exhaust. Boy is it loud with nothing:) I had to take the brake switch block apart. It was gummed up and causing some issues. I also screwed up on the 1" Mc push rod adjustment. So it was stopping me from bleeding correctly and also gave me terrible brakes. Re adjusted and it's working well now. I could use a little more brake, but I think that would mean a bigger booster.
  6. I agree, I wouldn't delete anything. The old pickup is probably redundant but you may end up wanting all the vapor points. You also need to be careful you have a known, functioning way to allow air to enter the tank not leave. If you run the tank with too much vacuum it will collapse. Not an issue with carbs at 3 psi but with EFI with high pressure it can happen. I suspect that is one reason the later tanks are much thicker. It looks like he cut the tank just about the tank flange
  7. You might want to leave all of them and find out as you reassemble which ones you need, the rest can be plugged before you install the tank. t Also, just wondering how your guy managed to get the two piece shell apart without cutting any metal on the seam?
  8. People often run in to problems when they start deleting stuff the factory installed. Even the emissions lines have the benefit of containing the smell of gasoline. I'd try to get them all back to where they were, unless it's a race car.
  9. Not a bash in any way, but when I see a pretty paint job without doing the engine bay, I immediately think "flipper". Not that there is anything wrong with that other than it may have been a hurry job hiding gremlins.
  10. 1 point
    Well rotisserie is done after several versions were tried. Now the car spins pretty freely with one hand . I can actually think about starting some work in it . I actually have a possible buyer coming to look at it this weekend. I said it would be for sale once it’s a rolling chassis and the metal work is done, but he wants to put his bid in now. Turns out that after meeting him at one if my sons swim meets that him and I were stationed in the USAF together at the same base , squadron , barracks , but weren’t buddies , just ran into each other in the hallways .30 years later our sons are in the same swim team at college - small world. Funnier even was when he found out my passion for Z’s , he went nuts because that was his first car and he has been looking for one . Anywho- lots of work but this solid 70 will make someone a beautiful car. Floor boards and spare wheel well are first up, then fixing the radiator core support next. Really not much for 4858. Somewhere in there though I bought another project - man I’m a dumb arse or gluten for punishment. Picked up a 83 Nissan/ Datsun 720 4x4 . Nevada body is great , everything needs work . I call it my retirement truck .
  11. I paid sticker price for my 72 Z at Continental Auto in Great Falls MT. The car was completely stock. $ 4,144.00. Still have my Z. I did not have a choice of color. 110 red with white interior was all that came in the day they said come and get it. First time I saw a Z was in Texas at a self car wash in 1970. I was smitten. I was headed to Thailand in the Air Force. 1 year 4 months later I got my Z. Happy times for sure. Phil Smith
  12. Yay!! 205/55 fits! I rolled the fenders and was able to set the camber much less aggressive. Tried to eye the toe close to 0 as well. Very happy with how this looks.
  13. I like the green with butterscotch interior myself.
  14. Love what you're doing..mine is a 1/71 ...HLS30-19867. Have never done a ground up but doing it in stages let's me drive it every summer. Sent from my SM-T800 using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  15. They're gas-filled and the gas is pressurized so they tend to be difficult to press down if they're new and everything is in order. If the gas has leaked out the shaft will stay down. But the gas isn't meant to hold a load, it just keeps the seal tight and stops foaming, I think. Not clear what you mean by "stiff". Shocks work on rate of motion. I know that mine, when new, would hurt the palm of my hand as I pressed the shaft down. The gas pressure is fairly high, that plus the damping took some effort. And the shaft moves right back up once you let go.
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