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Thank you everyone, my like button run out today, sorry I could not hit all of them, tomorrow I will ! Like Alan said, Datsun Netherland advised a lot , and Mr.Takei is the important engineer about this. He talked about this in some magazines, we can read it with cross reference techniques.I will refer the articles later. Kats

Thank you Alan, I have read that thread started by Blue, a lot of information there, I should read that first, thank you Alan , Blue too. Alan you are telling "it is not that easy story ,a history has very complicated stories behind " . I have got you. After reading that, "politics " is the key word for me, I think Nissan wanted to have victory as many as possible by S20 , the car was GTR. Same time Nissan wanted S30 to win with S20 first , but then L 24. For Nissan, winning various car , various engine is good thing to appeal their ability to people. The fact that terrible vibration occurred PZR's FS5C71A which many factory racers complained could affect Nissan's "politics" pushed forward , I mean switching plan LR24 came earlier than they expected, did not ? Or the vibration problem was just a bad compatibility of PZR and S20? Was it just coincident ? GTR would have same problem but Murayama fixed it nicely and immediately? Or even that problem was " already expected", Nissan knew it ? Nissan would have a retirement plan of PZR in 1970 so , they chose remaining as it is rather than solving the problem? Very interesting ! Kats PS the pictures is Mr.Maruyama , he was a senior captain of B777 retired at age of 65 last year, I flew with him on his "Last Flight". He knew I have Zs, he kindly let me see his younger days in the sky. His farther bought the new car 1975 S30 for him, Mr.Maruyama said "my father was so excited about his son became a pilot trainee, I still thank my father because I did not have that big money for buying it ..." Mr.Maruyama owned it 10 years, where is the car now?

I've searched through the forum looking for a thread that gives a step by step on removing the dash. I've seen them all on how to restore the dash, but no good detail on getting the dash out. I've never removed a dash from a car and have seen enough comments that it can be done in a day, mark all your wires, bag all the parts, etc. I have the Datsun service manual and it has the dash out in 8 easy steps?!? The Restore your Datsun Z car doesn't have details either. If anyone that has done this and could list a few bullets like, start with the steering column, move to X, then to Y, I would greatly appreciate your input! Thanks!!

Portuguese 240z with the Kobe seiko wheels. Even came with a Kobe wheel as spare wheel I think?

I like deliveries! and shiny things!

Kats, We are very privileged to be able to see 'Maruhi' (Secret) factory internal documentation such as this. Thank you! This was the testing that Takei san was involved in, yes? I see the name Takahashi on the report too. Datsun Netherlands was clearly a great influence on all this as Nissan's European base. I had heard in the past that Nissan had a lot of feedback coming from Datsun Netherlands with regard to product refinement and development, and Nissan took it seriously. Lots of sightings in period of mysterious Japanese cars on Japanese temporary-export 'Carnet' plates whizzing around on European roads. Some of them full of electronic measuring instruments and men with clipboards taking notes... For me, the 'Entreposto' Portuguese market 240Zs were the prettiest and nicest-equipped of all the Export market versions.

Kats, I don't want to clutter up your thread with a big off-topic diversion. There was a recent thread here (now much edited and revised, and even with some of the photos I posted in reply subsequently cut-and-pasted back into the first post, a habit which makes nonsense of much of what we do here) in which I attempted to answer some of the same questions: It's impossible to answer such questions without going into the complex interdepartmental politics at play (ex-Prince Murayama/Ogikubo vs Nissan Oppama et al) and the conflicting interests, power struggle and growing pains that soundtracked it all. Nissan and Prince were only a few short years on from their (forced) merger, and basically the ex-Prince guys were never really happy that *their* blue-blooded race-derived engine was being used in an S30-series car in the first place. A lot of what we observe was simply a function of that... In trying to undrestand the 432 and 432-R (especially the 432-R) I always find it helpful to look to Nissan's clear inspiration: The Porsche 911S and the 911T/R and 911R. The 911R in particular was a big reference point for Nissan when they created the 432-R, and there are many parallels. I sometimes hear - and read - people talking about the 432 and 432-R as though they were some kind of failure because "Nissan gave up after making just 420 or so". I don't think I've ever heard the same thing about cars such as the 911R, 911RS or 911RSR, and that's hopefully because people understand a little more about the reasons for their existence and their context. These are homologation specials that we are talking about here. Cars created and sold to the general public with the specific purpose of legalising them - along with many of the parts they used - for race use in certain categories. The 432 was created to qualify for sports car racing's 'G.T.' class and the 432-R was created to qualify for sports cars racing's 'Prototype' class. The minimum requirement for the Prototype class was for 25 cars of the same specification to be manufactured, which Nissan satisfied with the 432-R just as Porsche had done with the 911R. Nissan - like Porsche - never had any great intention (let alone the capacity for production or projected sales...) of churning out thousands of such cars. Rather than looking at production totals for the 432/432-R as "only" 420-odd I'd say that - all things considered - the whole thing was a success as a halo model, as an exercise in homologation and racing/rallying and an important step in becoming a world class auto maker and I'm actually surprised that they managed to sell as many as they did. Once the 432-R had been created, and had won, it had served its purpose as far as Nissan were concerned. The parts, specs and knowledge lived on through 1970 in domestic circuit racing and through to the end of 1971 in international rallying (the FIA outlawing the 432-R's legacy parts for the 1972 international season). 'Job done'.

Redoing the front end of the 73....new ball joints, tierod ends, Tokico Blues, Eibach and Willwood brakes.

My1972 240z has arleady been restored and painted. What comes next? Swapping the wheels which are 14" and still not the original as they were used on 280z model. However, as i still was undecided i installed a Brand new set of 185 R14 tires until i get some feedback from the fórum: I really like the american racing Wheel set: https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/american-racing-15x7-polished-slot-mag-wheel-kit-0-offset-4x114-3-vna695748-datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx-510/ My car has a 280z 5 speed transmission and would like to know if changing the wheels from the 280z type to this aftermarket set will affect the driveability or performance of the car. Once done i am also planning on installing the front air dam bumper manufactured by XENON. Any opinions or recommedations??

Old vs new ball joints and tie rod ends.....castle nuts torqued 45 to 50 lbs. ........new Tokico shocks go in the strut tubes capped with Eibach performance springs. Next to installing the assembly then the new Wilwoods.

Thanks CanTechZ! The link looks great! The book is Wick Humble's and you are correct, those pages have some detailed information I can use as well. SteveJ, Zup did shoot me a message. Met him in Branson last year. I appreciate the assistance! Maybe someday I'll get this Z on the road, she's been quiet since the late 80's!

I started the install of triple mikunis on HLS30-23305. Still gathering necessary parts, but the project is started.

After finding little bits of black debris in the float bowls I changed all the hoses to USCG rated marine hose. Costs 8 times as much but you only need a few feet. It has an ethanol resistant liner. Also fire resistant. Didn't check pressure rating since it's not an issue with carbs. It's thicker and stiffer than ordinary non-F.I. hose, so F.I. style clamps required.

I would remove both and test it. It will be noisy, but you can also see what is happening, if the transmission is moving around etc. If a transmission mount is sloppy, the transmission can move around and all you see is the gear stick jumping out of gear. The console is blocking your view of what is really happening.

I would remove all of that stuff, take the shifter out and put some machinists blue or even black sharpie, or paint or a piece of tape on the spots of the shifter that site showed in the other thread, then go drive it. It will either work fine and you'll know it was the boot, or it won't and you'll have some evidence on the shifter. You might find it's some other weird thing like a console wire hanging or the console doesn't fit right. Edit - sometimes you just have to do what's necessary to see the source. I was working on some plumbing yesterday trying to find a leak and I finally just stuck my head down on the concrete so I could see the bottom of the fitting. The leak was not coming from where I had calculated from the landing point of the drops. I wasted a lot of time trying to brain it out, when a little dirt on my head and some contortions would have found it earlier.

If you have the console out. Remove the rubber boot on the floor and take it for a spin and see if it still does it. The boot can sometimes cause this problem, especially if the rear transmission mount is worn and sloppy. Does it clunk when you accelerate and de accelerate. A loose rear cluster gear will often make a clunk sound when it moves back and forth. Compare it with 3rd.

You might appeal to @Zup and @S30Driver for assistance. They live in your neck of the woods.

Alan, you pointed out Takahashi - Tori Shimari Yaku (director) on the top left of the test report, I found him ! In the colored figure, the very left is Mr.Hara (director) who was also very important the birth of S30, Mr.K and Mr.Matsuo and other designers and engineers are all saying very good memories about him.Mr.Hara was a car guy, I guess. Next him is Mr.Takahashi , we have no idea about him. The third picture is Mr.Hara.

Amelia Earhart? Danica Patrick?

You may be able to get it to stay in gear by grinding the shifter a little, that's what fixed mine. When you take it out to replace the bushings look for nicks at the front and backside down at the bottom above the ball. A few people have had issue with that and a little grinding fixed there's too.

Yes I did, I had it powder coated and the EGR welded up. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I'm not sure the spec was that firmly fixed. I've seen a lot of the Portuguese market cars wearing them and Entreposto certainly optioned their cars up through their great leverage with Nissan, so likely a lot of their cars got them. Always exceptions to the rule, I guess. And the change in European lighting regulations (minimum height) certainly made a mess... More on topic: It's interesting that much of the refinement work on the HLS30Q is framed as 'Stability' (especially in cross-winds) and 'Safety' (in control), when in effect it is making a sports-oriented car even more 'sporty'.

'Entreposto' HLS30 walkaround:

I can't remember exactly, but "loose countershaft nut" and "broken shift fork roll pin" come to mind. If I recall correctly, neither is huge or expensive deal but both require removal and disassembly of the rear case from the adapter plate. Sunchro problems can make it difficult to get in to gear but once it's there it stays there. Popping out of gear is not a synchro problem. The fact that it's changing over time suggests the loosening nut problem. Probably want to catch that early.

Thanks for sharing this. Can someone share pictures of a Portuguese market 240Z so I can compare them to other European , Japanese and US models.

..... Japanese zero.... made by Mitsubishi!

Thanks for the tip. Here is a little mock up pic. Lots of work ahead. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Carl Beck would know, he gave the paint fleck colors for each spring to the company we had make the springs. The front left and right spring are different height as I remember do to different weight distribution, and the rear springs are identical. I don't remember if the colors on the Euro springs were different than the stock US springs that we ordered.

how about $800 I'm still in the early phases of my research - need to price everything out and see if it's something i really want to do to my Z (I'm pretty sure it is) MSA and Redline sell some kits that include everything (gaskets, etc). I would also need to get these rebuilt. Redline also offers a warranty. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-DCOE-Kit-fits-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Triple-Performance-40-DCOE-K659-/331133982952?hash=item4d191f98e8:g:6e8AAOxycD9TWBMb&vxp=mtr thanks for checking those specs!

Only if you worked for Nissan's sales and promotions department in 1969...

A mirror, long socket extensions, a wobbly socket attachment, and tape could all come in handy. Working on them is an acquired technique and can be very frustrating in the beginning. Make sure that all of your surfaces are clean and flat when you reassemble because the exhaust system is prone to leaking. Even new headers sometimes need some minor surface work. If you think that stud is about to break, stop and think hard before deciding to go ahead and snap it off. Heat, and PB Blaster and tricks might be better used early than late. The same problem is there with the thermostat housing bolts. They like to break too.

Good question, I will have to check and get back to you on that. Here are some of the latest body work pics. Miguel wanted to remove some of the previous paint work, so he has done quite a bit of sanding. Looks like the hood may have had three paint jobs so he is removing most of that. Nice progress in short time.

I have Eibach lowering springs which I purchased from MSA 2 years ago (black/grey in color, 01 in the front) and Tokico HPs. My car is a '78 280Z with factory bumpers and AC. It dropped about 1" all around after I installed the Eibachs and Tokico combo. Although front and rear fenders had been rolled, during front end alignment we did have to adjust the Techno Toy Tuning TCAs to "pull" the tires back about 1/4" to remedy minor tire rub on the front fender but I'm very satisfied with the stance and handling. I'm running Konig Rewinds 16"x7" with Goodyear Eagle Sport 225/55/16 rubber.