Leaderboard

Easier than I figured it would be. car on jacks, tires off 17mm strut bolts off, lift the strut of the steering knuckle, did not disconnect any brake calipers or lines, just moved it back, Caste nut, BFH with the knuckle supported on a 2*6, a light tap and the knuckle pops off, leave the tie rod attached just move away. next up the 2 14mm and pull the TC rod off. Now I went a bit more than prob had to, loosen the control arm bushing and remove the nut, pull the entire control arn off. I did this mainly to clean it up, and I wanted to see how the bushing looked. It was fine, so the new ones I was waiting on can just be spare parts. It seemed nice firm with no signs of break down of the rubber. I was not looking forward to pressing out that bushing anyway. back the ball joint, remove the tow remaining nuts pull the old ball joint out, clean the control arm in some hot soapy water, blow dry, install the new ball joint, reinstall the control arm nut (bolt not torqued, that when its on the ground), put on the steering knuckle, torque the castle nut to speck, cotter pin, clean up the steering knuckle, reinstall the O ring that seals the strut to the knuckle, reinstall the 17mm bolts, torque them, re install the TC rod with the 14mm and done. forgot I started by pulling the sway bar, nuts on the control arms and the mounting clamps. the rubbers were shot, I bought a moog kit, but it looked kinda cheesy so I reused the links and just use the rubber parts. the rubber mounts looked fine so they can stay. Will reinstall the sway bar after I finish the other ball joint (getting late).

Got any pictures of your car's interior we can review? Dennis

I took the plunge and purchased LEDs to replace the exterior lights, except for the plate lights. So far I replaced all but the lights under the bumper. I'll probably get to those this weekend. I did check the current flow with the LEDs, and it is now 2.6A. I didn't measure the current before the switch, but I estimated it to be approximately 7.9A. (For the record, I was expecting about 2.9A at this point of changing out the lights.) I purchased all of the bulbs from Superbright LEDs. Here is what I selected for my 260Z Front side markers - 67-A9 Rear side markers - 67-R9 Rear stop/tail 1157-R12 Rear turn 1156-R12 Rear tail 67-R9 Front turn 1157-A12 Reverse lights 67-W9 License plate 67-W9 Of course, you need to make sure the electrical connections in your car are in good shape. Also, check the sockets of the side markers. They can and WILL get rusty. I have some replacements sitting in my garage. They will go on my car VERY soon.

So you pull on the turn signal lever, the brights come on as well as the dash indicator, then you pull the lever again, and it switches to low beam and the dash indicator goes out. What's the problem again? The turn signal lever does not have two different positions which could be mixed up...

@Mike @bpilati

Got me a real wrench....2 inches ......I'll let you know if it works! It weighs about 5 lbs. A nut on one end trying to get a nut off of the other end

https://images.google.com/

I'd love a set of these calipers for my cars. Apart from rebuilding the calipers, finding appropriate discs etc.. is there any other modification required to the braking system? I assume they work well with the rear drum set up?

BC's a big Province. Where in BC? Check out the British Columbia Z Registry on Face Book. Quite a few Z cars in the lower Mainland. speaking of Zcars. Check out member ZKARS. He's in Alberta, but Jim probably has a few ( zillion ) spare parts.

Somebody found the mid-point between a functioning PCV system and no PCV system. You're going to have to do better than somewhere else to do well with these cars.

Thankyou everyone for your time and input. I said I wanted to see this project through at the beginning of the thread. but, I have to say I was second guessing myself this week. So after grinding down the shift rod front and back it shifts like butter. I like the tall gears, I'm not use to them. My friend/mechanic also with your feedback was able to diagnose and figure out my stalling problem. My car was stalling when coming down. He adjusted the throttle stop so it wouln't close completely or over reach the idle point. He also adjusted the dash pot a little bit to slow down the throttle plate. Time to clean and enjoy!

dont wizz them off, invite them over for a beer and a listen!

A friend of mine just texted me this pic. He bought the car.....it's coming to Richmond!

I added a set of these to my 72 in sept last year. If good quality and fit easily. I recommend getting new rubber cups and new spring fasteners. Start at the top and work down do not push in the top until you have lined up each fastener. They will make you want new door hardware. zdepot sells them also. Very rewarding project. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I now have New Rally Clock Oscillator box by Zclocks. This photo is the first one out and currently taking orders., It's a plug and play if you have your own circuit board or I can supply a complete working oscillator . Contact me at :ron@ zclocks.com for pricing and info.

Wrong side.

Sorry on the lack of information. The engine currently does not run. i bought the car from a guy that said he started it and ran for about 2 minutes and then the engine harness caught fire. The owner before him had installed an AMP and removed the fusible links which i am going to assume was not done properly. I took out the engine harness and replacing all the damaged wires and when i looked at the schematic saw that it did not match my alternator. I looked up the GM alternator and it does look a lot like it. Ill take a picture later today. i am trying to go thru the electrical and doing the fusible link upgrade again properly before i try and start to make sure i dont get a fire.

In good company! https://deremerstudios.smugmug.com/Automotive-Photography/Amelia-Isnald-Concours-dElegan/2017-Amelia-Island-Concours-dElegance/Behind-the-Scenes/i-j8xm9H4/A https://deremerstudios.smugmug.com/Automotive-Photography/Amelia-Isnald-Concours-dElegan/2017-Amelia-Island-Concours-dElegance/Behind-the-Scenes/i-4qtWPtV/A

I wanted to chime in here. I just bought these from www.Zcardepot.com They look really well made. I will see if they fit this Friday when I try to install them. These come with new window felt and a really nice chrome strip.

Since it vents crankcase pressure, I'd fix it before I'd drive it plugged like that. You could blow out front or back seals. You're lucky that is what keeps blowing off.

Yes. This car has been covered ad-nauseum here and Facebook. There are many things wrong with the car including the lack of wheel caps for those replica wheels.

Even the rust was from the factory...

Today I took my 240ZG for a couple of ours to enjoy windings near my house . At near the end of the driving , the shift lever did not want to engage , I found the clutch operating cylinder had a leak. I need to replace 11/16 adjustable cylinder. Kats

I drive my '78 280Z everyday 40+miles. The car is made to be driven. Unless you are at the level to keep a garage 'queen' , just drive the thing and enjoy it. Fuel injection was made for reliability. Did I mention I DD mine in DFW traffic everyday, except some rainy ones? It starts everytime I turn the key, AC still blows cold(Lord, please let it last!), it has never over heated with the stock cooling system, and I still smile each time I get in it. I feel like I know every inch of it by now.

Hey Guys, I am sorry if this has been answered before but I came seem to find what I am looking for. If I want to buy a 240z steering wheel with horn pad and put that into my 1978 280z will that work? I see a lot of issues with horn pads but that seems to be when trying to use a 280z horn pad with a 240z wheel. Thanks

If you get on to the MSA site and search "steering wheels" you'll find that they sell a bunch that fit 70-83 model years. Odds are in your favor.