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Submarine Cable Engine.... pulls cable into the ship and pays it out like a giant spaghetti slupper! Here is one passing an optical amplifier The older ones used tank track-like design And then again... the early method:

Lately there have been several threads that all seem to be discussing timing advance problems related to the E12-80 electronic distributor conversion on older engines. For example: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34031&highlight=E12-80 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34073&highlight=E12-80 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34126&highlight=E12-80 In at least one of them I ask if there was any way to know which distributors might be good candidates, and which ones to avoid, but never really got an answer. So I took it upon myself to download the factory service manuals for all five years of the 280ZX (1979 - 1983), dredge through them, and gather the information myself. The attached Excel file summarizes what I found. It is an interesting document, and it clears up much of the confusion on the subject. For example I now believe that I can explain some of the vexing questions I had on this subject. For example: Q: Why do so many sources recommend using only the 1979 model distributors? A: Because that is the only year where you can be reasonably sure that the vacuum advance will not cause spark knock at part throttle without having to re-curve the distributor. Q: Why does the E12-92 ignition module retard the timing by more than 8 degrees unless a 12V signal is applied to one of the extra pins? A: Because starting with 1981 the vacuum advance produces 30 degrees of advance, and the ignition computer needed a way to retard the timing in the event of spark knock. Remember that 1981 is about the beginning of the era when cars sold in the U.S. had to meet the dreaded and evil C.A.F.E. standards which made fuel mileage more important than anything else. I do not remember if it was in effect in 1981, but the car companies were all scrambling to meet the standards about that time. Take a look at the file and many mysteries on this subject become self evident. Distributor advance curves.xls

This car has been in a garage since 1980 I have turned the motor till I left USA 5 years ago. It is coming out soon. The person who sold it to me in 1980 is a friend I talked to Scott Sharp about it. It is a 41K miles z car that Bobs friend had newer model 5 speed in it ( have driven the car once in 1980 Huge flairs added. real louvers and an old style bar come with it but need bolting down 2.4 BRE motor with BRE covers and comp cams. yellow paint one of my exs told my kids to scratch so a patch or two needed no clue what it is worth but would trade for a nice slightly built car as I have a 3.05 motor with forged pistons hydraulic Rhodes bleed down lifters and P90 ported heads for the car OPS this motor is supercharged Could look like this car when finished.I know I paid a fortune for my TR8 Group 44 flairs The flairs below are similar to mine. Please tell me about what it is worth I am 63 so i would rather trade as I have to many other projects to finish building.

Isn't the 240Z a running sports car? Or is it track only? Maybe we can figure out what exactly this is with a few more clues. Have you ever been to Panama?

I've never seen them used, but I'm also dubious of the benefits. A decent heat shield keeps most of the heat off of the carb bodies, and the cooling bodies would only be effective if you were running a return line, which most triple carb folks don't bother with.

Saw this today on BAT. Looks like a decent condition 1988 300ZX, if you're into these cars it looks like a well-kept ride. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1988-nissan-300-zx/ This 1988 Nissan 300ZX Turbo shows 89k miles and is one of about 1,000 Shiro Special Editions sold in the US. The car is powered by a turbocharged 3.0 liter V6 paired to a 5-speed manual transmission and remained with its original owner until purchased by the seller three years ago. The Shiro Special was only produced in 1988 and weighed 125 pounds less than a standard 300ZX Turbo by doing away with many of the electronic features. It was equipped with Moon Glow Pearl White paint, Recaro seats, conventional suspension, analog instruments, and a viscous limited slip differential. This example is sold with a clean AutoCheck and a clean North Carolina title in the seller’s name.

Sorry, no pics handy and my Z isn't at my house. I made the switch in the middle of the race with a few feet of spare fuel hose and some plastic T fittings. It literally took me no more than two minutes to do the swap and get back on the track. I later cleaned it up with proper length hoses and brass fittings, but it still isn't pretty. I need to pull the engine this winter, so I'll tidy it up better, but it's a race car, so I'm not going for aesthetics. Anybody can do the test in minutes and it's completely reversible. You will need about three feet of 1/4" fuel hose, a 1/4x1/4x1/4 T fitting and about 8 hose clamps. Simply pull the hose off the fuel feed pipe above the RH frame rail and replace it with a fuel hose long enough to reach the front carb but don't connect it yet. Add a T fitting to the end and attach a short hose from the T to the front carb and another hose from the T to the rear carb. Insert a small bolt into each of the end of the stock fuel lines. You will need one for the fuel inlet hose you removed from the feed rail, and one for each of the hoses you removed from the carbs. That's it. Just make sure the new rubber hoses are not laying on anything hot or near the fan.

Hi Guys. I am that guy from England again. Tonytomb. I bought a pump from a company called Aladdin.com In the USA it cost about $24.00 but of course I had to pay for postage and packing which is to be expected. I am happy with what I have got but I only change the two upper parts of my pump and left the lower part intact as I did not wish to risk damaging the diaphram and oil seal during the course of dismantling the pumps. Good luck to you all and a healthy and wealthy 2017.

Here is Zup's Garage radio lab video. There was a problem with the original file name. This one is destined for his 7/70 car I believe. A fun day in the Zup garage ....

Here's the discussion several of us had back in 2009 regarding the fuel pump manufacturers and dates: @Arne compiled 4 different manufacturers and a date range derived from members submissions

not much going on. waiting for new valve springs from schnieder. the factory ones bind up with the cam i have so they will be up for sale soon. got some bodywork and primer done today. guide-coat and another coat of primer tomorrow, and i should be ready for color. hope to get the fenders in to the sandblaster next week

The other thing I noticed is if you take the fuse out, wipe each end with steal wool, lightly crimp each end of the fuse terminals and reinstall the fuse. This solved two of my issues. I'm running the old style fuses. I was scratching my head for hours trying to figure out what the heck was going on.

Copy Cat!

I like the tube straighener a lot, been meaning to build one for a while. I spotted a bunch of sliding door hardware at a good door and window supply store in town (Chinook Glass on 16th near Center). There were several of these grooved style wheels in a variety of sizes, all metal, and some much smaller than the close line wheels. Not sure size matters in THIS case, but... Everytime I go to replace yet ANOTHER broken window crank or window opening mech. on a couple of the "better" window's in the house, I see them, can't remember the size I need, leave without them and the cycle repeats. http://www.chinookglass.com/product-category/parts-catalog/sliding-patio-door/roller/

Well there is not too much to it, you can do springs in between the bars if you like. The plastic wheels are off those clothesline thingys, I looked for the old kind with the aluminum wheels but my local hardware store didn't carry them. The welded piece on the bottom is some scrap that I put on so it could be held in a vice.

S30Driver and I have resurrected a long (40+ year) dormant Datsun AM self seeking radio on this first day of 2017. This 4 minute video should fill in the details of this exceptionally exiteing event--- Many thanks and great gratitude to Jim 2 for his technical and production skills in making this happen! WOOO HOOO!! Here's the video-----

seriously?? i tossed mine in the scrap bin at work

Ordered a Rebello 3.0 stroker Sent from my SM-T350 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Now where have i been? Dang Christmas party-ing.... Richard, I have a plastic evap tank for you down here in Calgary if you decide to go that route. Get me at z240@shaw.ca.

I think a tank liner type product on a plastic vapor tank would be a great idea. I've used Red-Kote a few times lining tanks and it works wonderfully (so far ).

Another good question. I overfilled mine last Sunday, had the cruise on and got a phone call. Mine did not drain under the car, maybe I should look into that? It ran right down the lower rear fender. It was even with the gas cap and after driving for an hour or so I could still see it down the filler hole. I wonder if they changed things up between our model years? Can't wait for the new year's questions I have for you all to answer for me!

Thank you for that. I hate the way the generic UFO looking one I had to get looks. Where did you find that new pump? Do you have a Nissan number? Thanks, Cliff

Can't confirm if it's original or not but my 9/72 with 95k original has an Atsugi pump and has a code of U11F. Mark

ZDC-2 - Zinc cover A2=Aluminum cover For the 260Z's cars with the Zinc covers were recalled - and they were replaced with Aluminum covers. Bad reactions with US fuel additives and Zinc as I recall.. FWIW, Carl B.