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Sorry, I never gave the original reason for the head gasket. The Z was losing radiator fluid and there were no puddles or leaking hoses. Upon closer inspection I noticed said fluid flowing out of the back of the head, but only when it was running. Obvious head gasket problem. I could have used Stop Leak or something similar and MAYBE….. it would have contained it. But my thinking was why put a band aid on a problem instead of what I would have to do eventually to fix it properly. Plus that stuff coats everything and I didn't want that. Of course, when I a snapped head bolt along all the tugging, pushing, prying, pulling and cussing the head, I was in too deep to go backwards. The Quest had begun. What gave me encouragement is that I've got a winter project L28 on a stand in my shop. I've started the tear down when I have the time. The head on it popped right off, no problems whatsoever. I call that one "the bait head". I can't write here what I call the one I dropped off at the machine shop today. I know in a recent thread there was discussion about head gasket brands. Just a shout out to Datsun Spirit, I ordered the gaskets, bolts and studs from them. They sent nice, pretty OEM Nissan gaskets and cad plated bolts/studs. The bonus part of the project was the manifold stud bolts. They were rusted of course, but weren't the same. There were a couple of 12mm, some 1/2", two 7/16" and a bolt in place of a stud that none of my sockets would fit. Good ole' Mr Cresent wrench to the rescue for that one. It was an omen that I had to remove the heat shield before I could get the manifold off…. You gotta love PO's.

If you'd like to wish another member some good wishes on their birthday (check the list at the bottom of the home page), you can use this thread if you like.

Wishing good luck and prayers to our members in the eastern seaboard area during the next few days. Hurricane Matthew looks like a nasty one, especially in infrared!

Just read through this thread and it seems like you might have more than one problem. A slipping clutch can be caused by two things. 1. Incorrect adjustment or 2. Worn out pressure plate or clutch disc. Pressure plate diaphrams can crack (not often, but they do) which can give the clutch a light feel and it will slip. Check your clutch fork. If you can move it forward and backward in the slave cylinder, then its not an adjustment problem causing the slipping. The very early series I 240Z had the adjustable push rod and a spring to pull it back into the slave cylinder. Remove the spring and check free travel. The later type is non adjustable. You should be able to push the rod/clutch fork into the slave cylinder about 10-15mm depending on clutch disc wear and correct collar/pressure plate combination. If you have no free travel or the adjustable version slave cylinder piston seems to come out to far, check your pedal adjustment. It's important the clutch master cylinder returns all the way. Otherwise it will not expose the rear port and fluid can not return to the tank. Follow the FSM to adjust it. If all this checks out and it still slips then you will need a new clutch. Your second problem, grinding in reverse is mostly caused by poor adjustment. 1. Then you have way too much free travel, which in turn will not cause the clutch to slip. Other things that can cause a sticking clutch are: 2. Air in the hydraulics. Try bleeding the clutch. 3. A dry binding pilot bearing or spigot bearing as it as sometimes called. It's in the back of the crank and people often forget to lube it when doing clutch work. 4. When you disengage the clutch the clutch disc moves away from the flywheel a fraction. It does this by sliding along the input shaft. If the input shaft is really dry it won't move and the disc will drag on the flywheel. 5. Incorrect pedal adjustment. See FSM for adjusting pedal. The original clutch should handle your engine without slipping. If you are worried about the collar and pressure plate combinations, you can order the kit with the collar. Not as common as they use to be. Back when the series I was still common the replacement pressure plates were for the latrr versionand needed the corresponding collar.

I went to highschool with a girl we called "bait head".

If your clutch is slipping, it needs to be shorter. Spin it in till you've got 1/8 inch clearance (you'll feel the clutch arm loosen up) then lock it together. 5 minute job.

Like it or not Alan is an institution and factually you had better take notice. But he and others need to learn the difference between alleging a fact and making a mere comment or observation. Take my previous comment about Nissan aero. In no way was I claiming that Nissan was behind other makers or had no clue about what they were doing, it's because of that sort of conclusion jumping that lawyers have to include all the fine print that people complain about. Also as far as the G nose goes it is my experience that it's considered by your average S30 fan to be the ultimate aero device. That's my experience, how can I be wrong in stating that experience? The conclusion may be right or wrong but that's something else altogether, please guys brush upon your comprehension skills, I've had a lot of professional experience in using language precisely as possible and it's disappointing when some rush off with all sorts of versions on what was said. PS This series of lively discussion has woken up this thread, how can that possibly be bad?

Are your aware of the Zstory exhaust? Just throwing another option out there for you... very similar style back box, albeit not a dual pipe system. 2.5" pipe, all stainless, and around $700 USD. Search for "zstory" on Facebook for more info.

I think because it was stuck.

A stock clutch is more than sufficient for your engine. You either have a worn out clutch, poor adjustment of the clutch, incorrect collar or oil on the disc. I would start with adjustment since that's a ten minute job and it's free.

About 10 years ago I bought a Spirit Garage stainless system and fitted it to my 240ZG. The exhaust manifold was a period Nissan 'Sports Option' item, and the Spirit Garage twin pipe system mated up with it perfectly well and fitted very nicely. Good quality, good fit, nice sound and good longevity. Only thing I did was paint it black as it was possibly a little too blingy for my taste. Recommended.

I bought 4 front and 4 rear 240Z European bumpers....paid $1519.00. Wow....less than $200.00 each. Sorry to see them go....I always had good luck with Black Dragon. Good Luck to all the good folks at BD!

Two of the greats...

I have a shift knob...Now it's posted in ebay but I will reduce the price to $100 for it. Jamal

well that was easy. My headliner was detached for about 1/3 of the way on the driver side, sagging down and rubbing my head (I am tall so any sag at all is an issue). Got some headliner 3M glue, used a spatula to separate the driver and passenger side and then about 1/2 back (the rest was stuck on very well, I did not want to tear up the foam) where it was not holding real well. Covered the interior with bed sheets (seats/dash, anywhere it looked like overspray could be and issue) reclined the seats, put the brake handle down all to get as much unfettered access as possible, sprayed on a good even coat on both the roof and headliner, let it tack up (did not take long the heat the metal was not hot as it was in the garage, but the air temp was about 90f) then started from the middle worked up and over both sides. when I got to the edges (no glue about the last 4") I used the plastic spatula to tuck in. This has to be one of the easiest projects on the Z so far. Not completely detaching it no doubt made the alignment easy.

I fixed the arcing - loose wire. The hood is painted and on the car. Just wanting for the interior vinyl and carpet to arrive so I can install and put the windshield in.

Happy Birthday to our Admin, Mike.

How helpful is that comment? Im sure he already knew that much. It might be possible that a new idea has surfaced and he is just throwing out a question to see if that idea lands on here.

Put it back together without the head bolts and start it up. That should pop it loose.