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TOUCHDOWN ALABAMA!!!

Haha! Maybe you can teach me a new word tomorrow. On second thought... That might not be the best idea.

Congratulations Cliff. Well done. Celebrating a victory is always the best part of the job. Was it as difficult as you imagined? Any scratches? What ZH said about the valve valve cover. The engine bay is beginning to look like a brightly painted circus wagon.

The general contractor I worked for, for eighteen year's, did a big job for the IRS compound in Memphis after 9/11 securing the place. I spent a lot of time in BB Kings bar on Beale St. I like Bourbon St.better though. Stayed down there off and on for ten years. Worked five Mardi Gras at Mango Mango daiquiri bars. Living life and having fun! Construction is dead after the first of the year so I'd go down to New Orleans for a month and make good money and good relationships, short ones to; the best kind back then. They loved my "good old boy" personality. I made great tips, yes ma'am and yes yes sir, you know what I'm talking about too! 8^)

Engine back in : )

Okay, second freezer test was to place the probe in the freezer (again WAY colder than any cars interior should be unless your stuck in a snow bank in Siberia) Immediately the on/off click moves up the dial clockwise and within 30 seconds it has maxed out the switch. Upon pulling the probe from the freezer the click moves back down the dial counterclockwise at a slower rate as the probe adjusts to room temp. Every click up or down the dial had continuity up and down (on/off) in the correct manner for the switch. I then placed a small gel freezer pack in a glass of water and place the probe in that. I moved the dial to the approximate temperature for the click. when reaching the "desired cold" the unit clicks and continuity is separated. I then pulled the probe out of the glass (without tuning the dial) and in about a minute the unit clicked on indicating the compressor needs to come on and make more cold. Placing the probe back in the water resulted in the unit clicking off indicating the compressor is off as the car is now cold enough. I ran that test about 10 times. and as the glass of water warmed, it took longer to trip the unit. Another freezer gel pack made it click back faster. To me this all indicates the switch and probe are working as one would expect it to. The last test would be to hook it up in a car and see how it preforms in a live correct environment. I would, but I do not have an A/C car to try it on. I welcome any questions or comments on this. It is for sale. KiraK has first dibs.

Congratulations on the touchdown Cliff! Cliff 7 Gremlins 0 Now shed that crimson valve cover and she'll be real sweet!

I put it around the manifold (soft strap)! Your right i have the msa header. Good luck and dont scratch anything ; )

Here is a link to a large collection of S30 engine and engine bay pictures for inspiration: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOOstuMLWQ-T-nfkSMbw1tvyAboqyIZEECGlrSo1O7NPbcNEB-Of7X1-LCM-BVavA?key=VXlBaFpISGZBcTl1T1lTcVVuUEVwbWRwMkJPekdn I book marked this page after @gwri8 posted it last November.

Toyauto, Oobaroo, NoondaH, Makesyudizzy.

Making my own. Just gotta find some labels this size to print.

I will get a pic of my "clip buster" tool saved (well lets say clip convincer, since it certainly was not going to bust) me from certain madness.

Been there. Done that. Was wearing safety glasses and a groin cup, so it grew back.

4" blocks will work right? Then I'm raising the rears too. Thanks Jeff. You could buzz down here in that 996 and oversee my work.

Cliff, if you look at me pic again you will see what I use. I have double stacked 2x10 ramps to lift the car so I can fit the floor jack. They work great for many things. Each ramp has a shorter board nailed on top of a longer board and both are cut at a 45 so it's easier to drive the car onto them. My race car is lowered and then the tires are about 1.5" shorter than stock to getting a jack (or hoist legs) under the car isn't possible without them. Good luck!

I wrote a whole thing about modules then realized that it's creating strong spark. If you're seeing two different spark qualities, it kind of implies a cap and/or wire problem. The spark has to get from the coil wire, through the cap button, down the rotor metal, across the gap to the wire electrode, etc. Maybe measure resistance along that path.

Got tired of waiting for the nut, so went ahead and removed it. Used a punch to flatten out the stake, Nut came off CCW easy. gear puller on the gear worked out easy as well. Now on to the reverse idler, boy oh boy what a pita that was, broke my 1st circlip tool on the snap ring, got out a bigger one this time with fittings that would just barely fit the holes, well then that one broke leaving the tooth in the hole of the circlip. Finally I got some old big long nose pliers, custom ground the tip so I did not have to use the holes, and bingo got it. a little DNA left behind for good measure!! Video soon.

Unless I'm mistaken, the stock Fuel lines all run down passenger side of chassis no where near the exhaust system. Edit: I think you're looking at the Evap canister purge line from the Evap Reservoir tank. That line does run down the left side in the engine compartment and then crosses over the transmission tunnel to the passenger side. But that line getting hot won't affect anything. Here's a picture of stock Fuel pipe routing viewed from the rear. They don't even attach to the tunnel, but rather to the bottom of the floor pan and all on the Passenger side. Well away from the exhaust system.

one forum i used to visit substituted any foul language with "my tiny brain only knows 4 letter words" and "ignorance made audible"

Be Safe, I'd hate to have to drive all the way up there to claim your stuff!

Took a look and they're in good shape. In other news: a successful eBay purchase! $20, flawless. I think I'm going to get it powder coated in black with polished stripes and lettering.

AH, the preverbial can of worms is open... In stead of a character, you could use BLEEP! as the replacement. On the bullrun website, they used shift-1234 or (!@#$ as the replacement, but the people on Bullrun don't have the ability to converse without profanity- it's a reality show! and "real men" use profanity. But not the real men of CZCC.

Hahaha, you did make me laugh. I'll go check the filters and fix a few of them. Not sure if I want to filter the word tits, I do have the option to pick our filter character. For instance, instead of **** (for the F-word), I can change it to $&@#, or even frick, fudge, bunny, or whatever...

Haha!! Mike, you can delete that post if you'd like after you've got your answer. Happy to be of service.

You can say "Well you've made a perfect arse of yourself tonight. But you can't say Hey... Let's go get some arse!" If I'm remembering correctly, here's the classic original seven from the late great George Carlin: $^!#, wizz, ****, c***, chickenlicker, mother****er, and tits. And just because I like them... Tater-tits. Let's see how many of those make it through!